Engine Re-Install Questions
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Feb 27, 2017 05:51PM | Jemal | |
Feb 25, 2017 06:41PM | gzj6wg | Edited: Feb 25, 2017 07:00PM |
Jun 4, 2015 04:41PM | gzj6wg | Edited: Jun 4, 2015 04:47PM |
May 9, 2015 02:18PM | gzj6wg | |
May 9, 2015 09:03AM | gzj6wg | |
May 9, 2015 08:01AM | gzj6wg | |
May 7, 2015 01:03PM | malsal | |
May 6, 2015 01:09PM | gzj6wg | |
May 5, 2015 10:07PM | malsal | |
May 5, 2015 02:34PM | gzj6wg | |
May 1, 2015 07:46AM | CooperTune | |
Apr 30, 2015 06:15PM | tvander | |
Apr 30, 2015 03:02PM | gzj6wg | |
Apr 29, 2015 05:24PM | gzj6wg | |
Apr 28, 2015 06:19PM | gzj6wg | |
Apr 28, 2015 05:56PM | tvander | |
Apr 26, 2015 04:26PM | zippypinhead | |
Apr 26, 2015 02:47PM | gzj6wg | |
Apr 26, 2015 01:15PM | mur | |
Apr 26, 2015 01:01PM | Spitz |
Found 36 Messages
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Here are some pictures I took. On some of the rockers, they don't line up.. that is, they are not centered directly over the valve train, is this a concern and if so, any suggestions on how I can fix it ?
As always, thank-you in advance.
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Total posts: 767
Last post: Jan 4, 2020 Member since:Dec 6, 2001
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Cars in Garage: 0
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Total posts: 767
Last post: Jan 4, 2020 Member since:Dec 6, 2001
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Cars in Garage: 0
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Total posts: 767
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I bent the outer steel part in slightly so as to try and make it a little smaller and looser, i then managed to drift it out but it was frustrating to say the least and the worry of breaking off the ear did not help. Someone on the board used a combination of a bolt, socket and a washer to remove and replace one with good sucess.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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I feel like there is very little edge to get a foot hold/purchase on with a flat punch tool.... the bushing has such very thin edges. I tried a few taps and feel like I am going to beat up the aluminum around the edge of the steel bushing.
Any suggestions ?
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It can be done in the car but is a pia, if you have other issues like leaking seals etc it would be easier to remove the engine/box.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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I am still debating if I want to try to remove the bushing out of the final drive where the shift rod connects at... with the engine in the car or should I take the engine out. I got the correct part in the mail yesterday from MM (thank-you for the quick shipment and helping me get the right part).
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Coming in real late. The one you show looks more like a rod change shift housing bushing. The correct one for the diff housing has equal length steel center sleeve on either side. Steve (CTR)
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I changed that bushing in the car with the exhaust and all. It was a total pain but I got it done. I had to beat what was left of the outter sleeve of the bushing to submission to get it all out, with a chishel. Then I had to press the new bushing into place using a nut and a long bolt. Taking care to use a socket or something to only apply pressure to the outside of the new bushing.
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I'll post a picture of the incorrect part I ordered (my fault) and the original bushing that is in need of replacement.
Has anyone ever replaced this bushing before ?... I'm assuming I need to take the engine out and remove the tail end of the differential and try to drift out the existing metal part of the old bushing ?... any suggestions on how to do this and not damage the aluminum housing ?
Thanks in advance.
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Total posts: 767
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I'll check the for any slop/looseness tomorrow. I still have the gearshift assembly on my bench. I don't recall any excessive play, but I'll give it a double check, I appreciate the heads up.
Several years ago, I swapped final drives with Steve CTR. I still have my 3.44 in a box, I put a 2.9 in I got from Steve.
I hope to have my parts from MM by Thursday, I have Friday off work, hope to spend some time on the Mini in the morning
Thanks for the heads up, I'll check it tomorrow and report back.
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Is there much play in the rod that goes into the shift eye? Or in the short rod to the eye at the box? The shift box is aluminum and wears where the shift rod goes in. Mine was totally worn out and I had to send it off to Steve CTR to have him put in bronze bushings. The end result is better than new and shifts are excellent. Any play is accentuated on down the line and makes it worse. Even worse if you use a short shifter.
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Wow! Who busticated the margins on this thread?
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I removed the cover-housing-bottom, I mostly just did an inspection... I cleaned out some grime.
On the other side, I removed the dome-like retainer and the plastic dome-piece under it... cleaned them up and I re-greased them (both sides).
I ordered the replacement parts from MiniMania.
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It looks like the actual shift lever has been brutalized, more than likely to fit some goofy shift knob. A correct lever has a threaded portion on the end, and a proper shift knob has a rubber insert to turn the shift knob into a dampner instead of a noise maker. A proper shift knob has the shift pattern embossed on top and the word LIFT above the area to the right of the normal H pattern, telling people to lift the lever to get the car into reverse. This is known as a reverse lock out.
It is easiest to drift and replace the roll pin when the shifter is moved over to above reverse, but not pulled down into reverse.
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A little grease inside the mechanism
"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge