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 Posted: Feb 27, 2017 05:51PM
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US
I replied to your email at the end of the day.....

 Posted: Feb 25, 2017 06:41PM
 Edited:  Feb 25, 2017 07:00PM
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Image Gallery
Its been a while since I worked on the Mini. Today, I worked on adjusting the valve clearances.

Here are some pictures I took. On some of the rockers, they don't line up.. that is, they are not centered directly over the valve train, is this a concern and if so, any suggestions on how I can fix it ?

As always, thank-you in advance.

 Posted: Jun 4, 2015 04:41PM
 Edited:  Jun 4, 2015 04:47PM
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I sent my shift mechanism out to CTR Steve for refurbish/rebuild, it came back looking better then new. I got it back 2-3 weeks ago.  photo Shifter-Mechanism-After-Rebuild 002.jpg>    <P>
<img src=//s759.photobucket.com/user/356Tom/media/Shifter-Mechanism-After-Rebuild%20001.jpg.html photo Shifter-Mechanism-After-Rebuild 001.jpg>    <P>
<img src=//s759.photobucket.com/user/356Tom/media/Shifter-Mechanism-After-Rebuild%20007.jpg.html photo Shifter-Mechanism-After-Rebuild 007.jpg>    <P>
<img src=//s759.photobucket.com/user/356Tom/media/Shifter-Mechanism-After-Rebuild%20009.jpg.html photo Shifter-Mechanism-After-Rebuild 009.jpg>    <P>
<img src=//s759.photobucket.com/user/356Tom/media/Shifter-Mechanism-After-Rebuild%20004.jpg.html photo Shifter-Mechanism-After-Rebuild 004.jpg>    <P>
<img src=//s759.photobucket.com/user/356Tom/media/Shifter-Mechanism-After-Rebuild%20006.jpg.html photo Shifter-Mechanism-After-Rebuild 006.jpg> <P>










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 Posted: May 9, 2015 02:18PM
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New bushing is in place. Thank-you TVANDER for the tip on using the bolt and socket - that worked great. I only had to loosen the outside header nuts to get enough movement in the header pipe. I had to use 3 different size bolts (alignment/guide thru the socket), to avoid removing the header pipe all together.

 photo New Bushing in place.> <P>










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 Posted: May 9, 2015 09:03AM
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Success... I got the old bushing out, once I started working on it from the back, it was a 5 or 10 minute job... honestly, I think I lucked out... after collapsing it, it practically fell out.

 photo Old Bushing - Crushed.jpg>    <P>
<img src=//s759.photobucket.com/user/356Tom/media/Bushing%20Removed.jpg.html photo Bushing Removed.jpg> <P>










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 Posted: May 9, 2015 08:01AM
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I think I am looking at this wrong.... is it best to work on collapsing the bushing from the back... and not the side edge ? I put an arrow on what I am calling the back of the bushing.

 photo Rod Change Bushing Back Side.jpg> <P>










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 Posted: May 7, 2015 01:03PM
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I bent the outer steel part in slightly so as to try and make it a little smaller and looser, i then managed to drift it out but it was frustrating to say the least and the worry of breaking off the ear did not help. Someone on the board used a combination of a bolt, socket and a washer to remove and replace one with good sucess.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: May 6, 2015 01:09PM
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I rebuilt and resealed the engine...so, fingers crossed there will be no leaks (or, no major leaks)...the engine has not been fully hooked up and ran yet.

I feel like there is very little edge to get a foot hold/purchase on with a flat punch tool.... the bushing has such very thin edges. I tried a few taps and feel like I am going to beat up the aluminum around the edge of the steel bushing.

Any suggestions ?

 Posted: May 5, 2015 10:07PM
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It can be done in the car but is a pia, if you have other issues like leaking seals etc it would be easier to remove the engine/box.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: May 5, 2015 02:34PM
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Update: I sent the gearshift assembly to Steve-CTR for rebuild/refurbishment.

I am still debating if I want to try to remove the bushing out of the final drive where the shift rod connects at... with the engine in the car or should I take the engine out. I got the correct part in the mail yesterday from MM (thank-you for the quick shipment and helping me get the right part).

 Posted: May 1, 2015 07:46AM
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US

Coming in real late. The one you show looks more like a rod change shift housing bushing. The correct one for the diff housing has equal length steel center sleeve on either side. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Apr 30, 2015 06:15PM
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I changed that bushing in the car with the exhaust and all. It was a total pain but I got it done. I had to beat what was left of the outter sleeve of the bushing to submission to get it all out, with a chishel. Then I had to press the new bushing into place using a nut and a long bolt. Taking care to use a socket or something to only apply pressure to the outside of the new bushing.

 Posted: Apr 30, 2015 03:02PM
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I ordered the wrong part... here is a picture of the area where I need a bushing (see red arrow below). Brian at MiniMania helped me get the correct part ordered today, it should be here next week. I took tomorrow off work, to work on the Mini... kind of a bummer I did not verify the part was correct before I scheduled a vacation day.

I'll post a picture of the incorrect part I ordered (my fault) and the original bushing that is in need of replacement.

Has anyone ever replaced this bushing before ?... I'm assuming I need to take the engine out and remove the tail end of the differential and try to drift out the existing metal part of the old bushing ?... any suggestions on how to do this and not damage the aluminum housing ?

Thanks in advance.

 photo Rod Change Bushing Area-1.jpg>    <P>
<img src=//s759.photobucket.com/user/356Tom/media/Wrong%20Part%20on%20Left%20-%20Original%20Part%20on%20Right.jpg.html photo Wrong Part on Left - Original Part on Right.jpg

 Posted: Apr 29, 2015 05:24PM
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Tvander, I checked and you were right - there is a lot of excessive play in the Rod Extension coming out of the Remote Control Housing. I made a 4-5 second of it on my Iphone, I'll see if I can figure out how to post it. I wonder if Steve CTR is available to do a repair like you describe. I'll see if I can find his information and email him.

 Posted: Apr 28, 2015 06:19PM
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Hi Tvander,

I'll check the for any slop/looseness tomorrow. I still have the gearshift assembly on my bench. I don't recall any excessive play, but I'll give it a double check, I appreciate the heads up.

Several years ago, I swapped final drives with Steve CTR. I still have my 3.44 in a box, I put a 2.9 in I got from Steve.

I hope to have my parts from MM by Thursday, I have Friday off work, hope to spend some time on the Mini in the morning

Thanks for the heads up, I'll check it tomorrow and report back.

 Posted: Apr 28, 2015 05:56PM
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Is there much play in the rod that goes into the shift eye? Or in the short rod to the eye at the box? The shift box is aluminum and wears where the shift rod goes in. Mine was totally worn out and I had to send it off to Steve CTR to have him put in bronze bushings. The end result is better than new and shifts are excellent. Any play is accentuated on down the line and makes it worse. Even worse if you use a short shifter.

 Posted: Apr 26, 2015 04:26PM
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US

Wow! Who busticated the margins on this thread?

 Posted: Apr 26, 2015 02:47PM
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I spent the afternoon degreasing the outside of the gear shift housing/assembly.

I removed the cover-housing-bottom, I mostly just did an inspection... I cleaned out some grime.

On the other side, I removed the dome-like retainer and the plastic dome-piece under it... cleaned them up and I re-greased them (both sides).

I ordered the replacement parts from MiniMania.

 photo Mini GearShift Assembly-at workbench 001.jpg>    <P>
<img src=//s759.photobucket.com/user/356Tom/media/Mini%20GearShift%20Assembly-at%20workbench%20004.jpg.html photo Mini GearShift Assembly-at workbench 004.jpg> <P>










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 Posted: Apr 26, 2015 01:15PM
mur
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It looks like the actual shift lever has been brutalized, more than likely to fit some goofy shift knob. A correct lever has a threaded portion on the end, and a proper shift knob has a rubber insert to turn the shift knob into a dampner instead of a noise maker. A proper shift knob has the shift pattern embossed on top and the word LIFT above the area to the right of the normal H pattern, telling people to lift the lever to get the car into reverse. This is known as a reverse lock out. 

It is easiest to drift and replace the roll pin when the shifter is moved over to above reverse, but not pulled down into reverse.

 Posted: Apr 26, 2015 01:01PM
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CA

A little grease inside the mechanism

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

Found 36 Messages

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