I think those are actual bump stops not droop stops. I actually have a set of rear bumps that bolt to the leading edge of the wheel well. Seems to work well enough.

So, last night I went out there and had a look around. I am running Gaz lowered units (forgot the measure their fully open length) and I played around with sticking "things" of different thicknesses back behind the knuckle joint. Man, there really isnt much room to play with. I put a socket that was 1.375" and that kept the radius arm from reaching its full droop by roughly an inch. I then put in a socket that measured 1.25" and it did nothing.

If I can find a piece of poly in that tickness, I might give it a try. There is a hole in my subframe that looks like where the wet frames would have a captured nut welded to the back of. Im sure I can get a thin nut and wrentch up there to bolt something too. Just needs to be held in place, not wildly secure.

There are also the S-Racer versions:

//www.minimania.com/part/C-SRP015/Rear-Bump-Stop-Kit-Dry-Mini--Mini-Cooper-S

but I would really like to see some photos of the droop stops. Both our wagons could really benefit from droop stops.

It has been 30+ years since I owned a wet car.

Terry

There are dry suspension rear bumpstops available, but I doubt they'd help with droop on a lowered car.

//www.minimania.com/part/ERA1190/Bump-Stop-Era-Rear-Or-92-On--mini--Mini-Cooper-S

Isnt that funny. They built a better product and then went backwards. I mean, I get that the hydros had their own share of issues BUT why loose all the other stuff?

With hydro in the rear, you got:

Bump stops (that are easily upgradable)
Spring loaded pins
Droop stops

All seem like very good things to have.

Hydro cars not only have the droop stop (behind the knuckle joint crank on the arm), but also have spring loaded pins in the equivilent of the trumpet.

Man, the hydro cars have all sorts of fun stuff to steal. I actually have a complete wet subframe (and the rest of the car. haha) but its tucked away in sotrage. It has the competition bump stops but I totally forgot about the droop stop. it makes sense though and a perfect place.

I like the wood idea too. Maybe an even better idea would be a slab of poly. Figure out the thickness with wood and then search/build your own.

And yes, my cones are looking worse the more I look at them. Dont worry about timing for me, my motor is coming out this weekend I think. Boooooo

Great info everyone, thanks!!

I opened this thread and was about to reply last night. First I wanted to find a picture of a wet rear sub frame with droop buffers in place. Found a couple of exploded views but neither showed the buffers. Wet sub frames have a captive nut in the frame horn where the buffer bolts in place, it fits between sub frame horn and the swing arm. It fits behind the swing arm stub that the knuckle on the small end of the trumpet engages the swing arm. Wet cars did not have tube shocks for positive droop stop just a helper spring. 

I think the issue here may be steel springs which do not expand like a rubber spring. Any way while at Mid Ohio for the big race I noticed a serious racer placing a wood block in that area to limit droop. Could be held in place with a machine screw and different thickness tried till satisfied. Steve (CTR)

Hydro rear arms have rebound buffers under them. Could these be fitted to dry arms?

I have a pair of each in my stash, will check it out tomorrow.

//dmrpcb.com/ebooks/racing/

Ide add the comment that this can relate back to your cones... as mentioned in other thread - Harsh ride- - Hard cones. - theyve also lost their profile and its last little bit of extention as compared when new.  I just replaced cones on a friends car- and the difference was just over a half inch relaxed height between the Old cone 1989 - vs a new cone thats going in.

I think if you had that fresh cone profile it will fill up more of the' droop space and should hold your trumpet / hi lo in properly... Now if you are SUPER DUPER low- the cone wont account for all that movement / Space

Goodluck! 

(spring time isnt thebest time to be tearing into the mini full bore! ) but cones are fine! 

Bob Tarzwell wrote "Building a Competition Mini".  I think he posts on here as pixieracing.  The suspension chapter explains how he kept the unloaded rear wheel from being lifted off the ground; he extended the trumpet ball stem and added Belleville washers.  The trumpet and longer ball stem get polished and greased so the stem can slide easily.  When the sway bar connected to the loaded side tries to lift the unloaded wheel, the Belleville springs keep pushing the wheel (and of course, the swaybar) down so you maintain 4 tires in contact with the road and the car leans less. Obviously, the trumpet never comes loose, even at full droop on the fully lowered race car. Book is short but worth the money for the things that make you slap your forehead.  Might still be in print at megadawn.com . 

Its only a problem changing tires and Yumping.

Join the club....   And, yes, it was designed with the shock as the rear droop stop. 

I was looking at some thin stainless wire rope at the local hardware store on the weekend.  A loop under the trailling arm would be an ideal droop stop if you could find a convenient place to anchor the ends.  They wouldn't have to be that substantial as the rope is only holding the partial weght of the arm... 

Cheers, Ian

Something I have always wondered, is there any way to stop the suspension from dropping so much in the rear? My car is lowered and I was limited to where I could set it by the amount the wheel fell when off the ground. Too low and the cone/trumpet go loose. On the front I have the taller rebound bumpers for just that reason. What about the rear? Is there anything?

Last night I was looking at the rear and I noticed that the suspension just drops until the shock hits it limit. Seems a little harsh. I am running GAZ lowered shocks as well. Seems like there needs to be a rubber stop or something or is it just me??