I also use rivet-type nut inserts more and more as I install bits on the mini, most recently when I installed the 2nd fuse box and the fixed bar under the LHS dash from which I cable-tied the wiring to the auxilliary gauge panel. 

I haven't yet used them to attach the flares yet, but it's on the list of things to do - just need to find time to move the fuel tank out of the way and remove the nuts currently securing the screws.  Oh, and change the Group 5 front flares to the Group 2 wide type that I've fitted to the rear.  I've been driving around mismatched for around 3 years now...

Pop rivets and fiberglass?  You will likely crack your fiberglass. Screws ? I have never been a fan of sharp screws anywhere near my tires. So I also used 10/32 stainless machine screws. I rivetted self locking nut plates in the back of my fenders.This allows me to take my group 5 flares off one handed,no need to get your other hand up inside to hold a locknut.  I have used this idea through out the car to make many jobs easier,  eg. The skid plate can easily be removed to change a oil filter.There is one problem, the rear flare has one screw that goes into a box section. That remains a self tapping screw. This idea also allowed me to continue my theme of changing every bolt to a allan head bolt.The only non allan,s are the high strength suspension bits. Cheers

I thought MM had these on sale and I ordered them, lucky I checked and they were the larger flares.Called Don back and he confirmed they were the larger and killed the order. I too am a big fan of the Gp2 flares.

Think they look great on your car, don't know if I'll paint to body color or contrast, looks good either way.

(Pic is of GFactor mini flares)  

Thansk very much, Dan.  Appreciate the time you put into that.  Off I go.

If by suggestions, you mean to get the drill tip out, I'd start by taking the flare off so it doesn't get messed up. (I'm assuming the drill piece is stuck in th fender panel. If stuck in the flare you'd be dealing with the flare.) Then see how much drill is sticking out. You may be able to get a grip on it with very small vise-grips and "unthread" it - back it out. Check the back side to see if any is sticking out there.

If you can't grip it, make a dolly to back up the fender metal out of metal or hardwood with a hole drilled in it a little bigger than the drill bit. Back up the panel and tap the exposed side of the drill to loosen it in the panel. You may have to alternae inside/outside. Get it to wiggle like a loose tooth then try to work it out of the panel.

When you do get the drill scrap out, take a new drill of the same size  and drill out the partial hole.

I find trying to drill through two sheets of steel at the same time results in twist drills binding and snapping. I thin t is because, as you drill, the metal deforms under the pressure and when the hole in the first sheet is clean, the pressure on that sheet is relieved and the centre of its hole shifts just enough to bind on the drill. Clamping the 2 sheets of steel very firmly together with vise-grips helps but is not 100% In the past, I have ground down the remaining piece of drill to form new cutters, but only with about 1/2 turn of flutes remaining. These stubby drills are much stronger and don't bind up, though the cutting edges are not as good as original. Keeping the length of drill exposed from the chuck at a minimum also reduces the tendency to flex the drill. The problem with drilling finished metal this way is the risk of chuck rash on the finish. This can be solved with a non-rotating mask with the same sized hole.

(The older one gets, the more screw-ups one experiences having to sort out. Today, while re-attaching the Cable line to the house, I managed to tear with one bare hand the weatherproof cover off the GFI outlet I wanted to use. No duct tape handy.)

Image Gallery

Thanks Dogscarf.  Yeah I love the Gp2 flares.  Here are before-and-afters I did for the TMF forum.  They were glass, have held up perfectly.  

You may know this already but the chrome trim is a notorious pain.  Mine has a couple huge wrinkles from the heat gun (which is the wrong way to do it) but nobody seems to have noticed or mentioned it. 

I also had to go up to 6" wheels from 5".  These are Ultralites which have just the right offset for S brakes and Minifins - if you're using flares.  Took a couple months to research this combination so I wouldn't need spacers.

Air2air,  Your car looks great.  Now I like those flares even more.  My issue is that the body shop did a crappy job and didn't make a sharp right angle between the body and the steel flare  lip.  It is somewhat rounded from a little body filler, primer and paint.  So, the plastic trim would not adhere well.  That doesn't worry me that much, as I want the flares anyway.  Off to primer and paint them now.

Randy in WI

Randy you can't see in the photo but I'm missing a screw at the top/front of the right rear.  The hole is currently occupied by a broken drill bit.  Some lovely language came out of the garage at that time.

If anyone has a suggestion I'm all ears...

I checked, yes mine are Group II Works flares.  Stainless would be nice.  I'm going gloss black to go with Almond Green body and white roof.

Randy

I have th same archs on my car.  I used Stainless steel, 10-32 button head screws with nylon lock nuts.  Drilled through the fenders.  I think it turned out great.  Probably not the correct way.  Can't find any decent close up pics.

I am in the process of fitting wheel arch flairs to my 1968 Morris Cooper S.  I have a set of what I believe is called Group II flares.  They have a ridge on the outside that I can run my chrome trim over which I prefer to do.  Back in the day I used to just drill and screw the flares on.  Is this still acceptable or should I use aluminum pop rivets instead of screws.  I also have some nice rubber moulding that goes between the flare and the body.  I just hate to drill the body but I don't have enough lip left on the wheel arches in places to attach the chrome trim.

Randy in Wisconsin