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I thought I'ld add to this brief thread, the following update .... I don't have pic of my original brake switch install, but here are the pictures I used to emulate my install.

And here is the new install by my mechanic friend.  Note the second photo shows a hole in the brake assembly to the left of the new install.  I had originally fabricated a bracket, similar to that in the photo above, to hold the brake switch block, using that hole.

Again, the brake system is working well now, it seems, after a 10 mile drive across town from the mechanic shop.

"This is hopefully a shorter thread" Nah !!!! not this time :-)

... as in your avatar?

Yeah, I'm aware you haven't been as active here lately, and I know you're typically a ready source of quality advice and information. I hope things smooth out for you.

Yeah, it's kinda like reading an Agatha Christie mystery novel.... Except, in this case, the little clue wasn't revealed in the first chapter....

Also a different pedal box has been installed. The pedal box frame is pretty much the same on most Mini's but i believe the later servo type has a different style brake pedal near the point where the master attaches. If he was running the car with the same box assembly he needs to compare the length of the master cylinder rods, after looking at the brake light switch which seems like it may be the culprit.

Ditto for me too! didnt think about a mechanical switch till you post toward the end. but this does highlight a problem for us folks that try to help/diagnose problems via the internet. Sometimes we don't get all the info because the poster doesnt relize it's important or relevent to the problem at hand. Too much info is preferable to too little...............

Cool!  There are some great folks on here, glad you got it sorted.

Dan, yeah, well, I've been distracted lately, lot on my mind and some wierd happenings... 

Just got a call from mechanic who used to race classic Minis: he got the engine tuned so it runs ok.  and he removed my fabricated bracket that held the square block for the switch.  shaved some of the switch mounting block and reistalled the switch. He reports all is now well with brake system and brake lights.  The tip this morning lead him to the switch positioning issue.  After some a small amount if exhaust work, hopefully can go across town and drive it home early next week. 

Just remember now that if you have two gaskets installed the problem will not be as bad (or not even there) and also when you have installed all the gaskets you need (presuming the brake switch is not the culprit) you will need to adjust the switch accordingly, the switches are all threaded and easily adjustable as long as the mounting bracket is in the correct place.

I just appreciate all the insights.  there were issues other than the brake switch that needed to be addressed.  and the mechanic that is doing the tuning was informed this AM about the switch being a potential problem child.

I too am guilty of sitting on this tidbit, but, in my defense, it didn't really occur to me as when I think about Mini brake light switches, I think of the hydraulic, in-line switch that is common on the early models and the ADO-16s... Sorry about that Motoren!

So, jeg, you've been sitting back for about 2 weeks 3 weeks watching him sweat about everything else barake related including shoe size before you dropped this little gem of wisdom? Or have you been too busy on your own projects?

(remind me to stay on your "good' side haha!)

Wow.  if that worked I'll keep it in mind. But again would be something that logically should not have to be done, just as shimming the MC should not be necessary.  I am guessing the distance of the plunger (I called it the button) movement is in relationship to where it is mounted.  I'm wondering, NOW, if there are any specs / measurements anywhere about how/where it should be installed.

It was a long time ago, but I think I needed to shorten the plunger by about 1/8" on my electric brake light switch in order for it to install/work correctly.

Really good points regarding the brake switch at the pedal arm; from minimans and swindrum, and concurance from malsal.    

     I'm trying to remember, if I adjusted it just before these problems began, possibly.  If I remember correctly, I was having trouble getting the brake lights to go on.  Let's see, for my install, the mechanical brake switch has a button that presses onto the pedal arm, and is the button is compressed into the switch when the brake pedal is not pushed (and as you guys are saying, if this isn't adjusted correctly it can prevent the pedal from swinging fully back toward the driver).  When the brake pedal is pushed, the switch button extends enought to activate the power to the brake lights. For my install, I had to make a judgement as to at what location the switch would touch the brake pedal.  I used as reference for the install some photos of such an install, found on a message board, perhaps North American Motoring?  Or here on MiniMania?  Anyway, I will definitely look at this as a culprit, again.  I had kinda discharged it as having any relationship, because my brake light works, but there is more to rechecked. 

      If I had anticipated this much challenge I would have advised myself to make a journal of every repair step I take.  But of course I didn't,  so memory is suggesting there may be a relationship.  swindrum's mention that the symptoms were the same, does strike a loud bell!    The car is off for tuning presently, but when moving it last night I still had some problem. S o, instead of two hard gaskets, I have been thinking I'll need to add a third.  I just need that added play it would provide.    Now, this brake switch discussion, could be of greater importance.  

^Beat me to it! I had an MGBGT years ago with an overly adjusted brake light switch, it would not let the pedal return all the way and caused EXACTLY what you are describing.

Good point Paul.

You fitted a mechanical brake switch? now are you sure that that is not preventing the pedal from returning all the way? what is happening here is the master cylinder is not travelling all the way to the off positon therefore not uncovering the exhaust port fully or at all, this is what is keeping the brakes on. Make sure that the master cylinder OP rod is free and has some free play when the brakes are released/at rest

Understood.thanks.  Which makes me think about my install process.  I have been connecting the clevis pin first then tightening the MC bolts.  If the clevis isn't aligning well I won't know what has occurred.  I'm sure at this point someone should point out "to refer to the Haynes manual for correct uninstall/install steps", so... I will; to pre-empt that strike!    .  If I  have been doing those steps incorrectly (the bible Haynes is not available presently to check what it says) that would have been the first issue to address!

Rather than pulling both masters off again and risking not having enough threads due to the thickness of the gaskets i would shorten the master push rod or as previously stated look into the brake pedal to see if it is correct. When you remove  the clevis pin that holds the master to the brake pedal pivot point look to see if the holes are close to being aligned, that should give you an indication of how much you need to raise the master cylinder.