Great info, thanks. I was planning to drop the new pistons off with the block and have them tolerance the bores to each piston. I understand that both shops Mark mentioned are very familiar with our A-series engines so I think I will go with one of those two.

If at all possible work with someone who has been there before. I worked in auto machine shop for 25 years. Since I retired in 2000 5 local auto machine shops have gone out of biz. My problem has been finding someone to do small bore work. No one bores under 2.625. I found a shop and they promised 1 1/2 day turn around. Almost one month later they called and ask if I had the pistons. I had left the pistons with them. Next day they called and job done. I use the 5 remaining shops for different work. Once a block is bored, cleaned and honed I pre assemble. I measure piston to deck on all rod/ piston sets in one hole. This gives me an idea of rod length and pin to crown figures. Then measure piston to deck with one rod/piston in all holes. Helps figure if block is square end to end. Something I have noticed with the pistons currently is they may not be the same dia. 

I noticed the pistons were very tight in the bores. I also noticed only one piston had been unwrapped. I looks like someone looked up clearance for a split skirt piston which fit up very tight. When I dropped the block at one of the other shops I work with I ask he mike each piston and clearance the bore it will go in and mark. The replacement pistons are full skirt and there were instructions in the box under one of the pistons not removed. Having the tools and feel to check work is so important. I'm just glad they were tight and not loose. I have two blocks being surfaced and one assembly being balanced. The othe assembly has already been balanced. I balance all my work. Now when my heads come back from another shop I will have something. Steve (CTR) 

My parents raced formula vees since the 70s. They raced with Wayne Snyder who started Ctech with his brother Arnie. Arnie is still there. He did an absolutely knock out job on my engine. From the cleaning of all oil galleys to the polishing of the crank everything was top notch. My engine is the original Cooper S engine from my car so I didn't dare risk it with just anybody. I had them bore the engine .020 over and clean up everything from the head to the new/old trans I sourced. He replaced all the pistons after researching the method of heating the rod and pressing the wrist pin in. He did the full assembly of the bottom end checking all tolerances of each bearing and guaranteed his work. They have extensive knowledge and 45 years of referrals.

CD on the otherhand is who MOWOG on this board uses for his engine work. Paul wouldn't trust his work with just anyone. His cars are great examples of each flavor of mini.

I would stand behind either of them. If you end up coming out this way you should stop by. I'm outside Ada which is on your way back to DET.

Thanks Mark. Per your suggestion I looked up the Hudsonville shop and it is CD's Engine Service. I forgot to mention in my original post that I am just outside of Detroit, so it would be about 2.5 hours drive, but considering how much British stuff they do its probably worth it.

Chris

I just had all my work done at CTech in Grandville Michigan. There is another shop in Hudsonville that does loads of British cars. Feel free to contact me via email to get the details. MarkLooman at Comcast dot net

Hi all, I am in the process of tearing down my gearbox and engine for an overhaul and I am curious if anyone can provide suggestions for a machine shop that has experience with our A-series engines? I recently moved to Michigan so I am not familiar with much of the area. I am willing to drive a few hours to drop it off if it means it will get done correctly.

 

Thanks,
Chris