Twin HS4 fitting puzzle
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Last post: Jan 13, 2022 Member since:Feb 7, 2006
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Well it looks like the correct manifold. The engine steady on the radiator side may have enough threads to work. It is not just a case of a longer stabilizer bar(s) although can achieve some clearance that way, the factory re drilled the sub frame and moved the motor mounts locations forward so they could use the HIF 38 on the early 90's cars. Why don't you extend the radiator side stabilizer out as far as possible and see if it helps you with clearance before throwing any more money at it, make sure you disconnect the one on the block first.
Can you elaborate a bit? Disconnect the stabiliser from the block, then wind out the threads at the bulkhead, then reconnect?
No just disconnect the block one completely while you adjust the radiator side one to see how much room you actually need. I don't know the build specs on your engine but you may want to read up on Ed Smiths findings (posted on the forum) on installing HS4's on a warmed up 1275S, HS2's had better HP dyno results.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Last post: Mar 26, 2024 Member since:Mar 24, 1999
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I fitted twin HS4s to Tigger using the same manifold and it works just fine. Smooth idle, good emissions, turbine-like power delivery up to 7500rpm and 90bhp.
'78 car with the slightly larger bulkhead dip compared to a Mk1, but with the correct subframe with the engine in the original position.
I suspect that it is the LHD bit that is causing your problem, so you could always swap back like God intended
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Folks do fit twin HS4s, because bigger is better, so you might like it, just sayin, Norm
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Last post: Jul 20, 2020 Member since:Nov 21, 2013
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Well it looks like the correct manifold. The engine steady on the radiator side may have enough threads to work. It is not just a case of a longer stabilizer bar(s) although can achieve some clearance that way, the factory re drilled the sub frame and moved the motor mounts locations forward so they could use the HIF 38 on the early 90's cars. Why don't you extend the radiator side stabilizer out as far as possible and see if it helps you with clearance before throwing any more money at it, make sure you disconnect the one on the block first.
Can you elaborate a bit? Disconnect the stabiliser from the block, then wind out the threads at the bulkhead, then reconnect?
Total posts: 8382
Last post: Jan 13, 2022 Member since:Feb 7, 2006
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Cars in Garage: 0
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Well it looks like the correct manifold. The engine steady on the radiator side may have enough threads to work. It is not just a case of a longer stabilizer bar(s) although can achieve some clearance that way, the factory re drilled the sub frame and moved the motor mounts locations forward so they could use the HIF 38 on the early 90's cars. Why don't you extend the radiator side stabilizer out as far as possible and see if it helps you with clearance before throwing any more money at it, make sure you disconnect the one on the block first.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
Total posts: 26
Last post: Jul 20, 2020 Member since:Nov 21, 2013
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Cars in Garage: 0
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The manifold came from our host //www.minimania.com/part/C-AEG489/Inlet-Manifold-2x-Hs4-Or-Hs6, so it should be correct. I also used the 30 degree float bowl grommets, and the bowls sit plumb in situ, so it must be a 30-degree inlet.
If I change the dog-bone to shift the engine forward, will I need a longer engine steady connected to the radiator bracket on the left side?
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Last post: Jan 13, 2022 Member since:Feb 7, 2006
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Start by checking the angle of your mainifold it may not be a Mini specific one, a Mini needs a 30 degree one other vehicles used a 20 degree one. Another thing you can do which was done with 90's Mini's is to move the engine forward approximately 3/4" and buy the longer 1275 or adjustable stabilizer. You will need off set air filters with a LHD set up.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
Total posts: 26
Last post: Jul 20, 2020 Member since:Nov 21, 2013
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I've searched loads of forums, but cannot unravel this puzzle.
I have a Mk1 Cooper with a Metro A+ motor - swapped to LHD when the motor changed AFAICT. Found a deal on a pair of HS4 carbs and have assembled all the related parts, including a new manifold:
I cannot get the carbs to fit without the left carb's bowl snagging the bulkhead lip around the brake MC. The throttle linkage will clear the inlet manifold without spacers, but that still doesn't solve the clearance problem at the bulkhead. I don't have an adjustable dog-bone, so unless I wait for that new part, not engine tilting here.
So this looks like it will never happen.
The float bowl hits the bulkhead here:
That's with no spacers between the inlet manifold and the carb/heat shield.
I moved the MC so I could use a Dremel to grind down that lip where the bowl kept snagging.
Then I did a test fit of just the left carb. It fits, but I'd need a feeler gauge to tell you the clearance:
Even if I could use these carbs with so little clearance (which seems like a pretty bad idea), there's no way to get an air-filter (K&N cone) in place around the brake MC.
So even after getting a great deal on the carbs, I have $500 in parts (manifold, filters, rebuild kits, etc.) and several hours of cleaning, fitting, spewing profanity, etc. - all for nothing. Were this some wild-haired hotrod experiment, I could live with that. But upgrading from HS2s to HS4s seems like a pretty common move. That it absolutely will not work on my car sucks.
I welcome any ideas on a solution (different MC unit, adjustable dog-bone, etc.), before I spend (waste?) more money on parts to navigate this fitment puzzle.
Found 28 Messages