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 Posted: May 21, 2015 02:30PM
jeg
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Well done!

The peasants are revolting...          

"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance

 Posted: May 21, 2015 08:15AM
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New switch on steering column was wired in yesterday and normal & bright lights, turn signals and horn are now all working.........FINALLY.

 Posted: May 6, 2015 06:38PM
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Ordered a new switch for the horn, turn signals & bright lights.

 Posted: May 4, 2015 02:40PM
jeg
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It looks like the purple horn wire is connected to the same location on the fuse box as the headlamp dip switch wire, which is also purple. 

So, one lead of the stalk switch is merely connected to the horn (-) and the other stalk lead is basically to ground (probably still residing in the stock wiring harness and white plastic multi-connector) and the horn (+) is from the fuse box where the headlight dip switch is. 

I'd try connecting a simple light bulb and give it a try. 

The peasants are revolting...          

"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance

 Posted: May 4, 2015 12:52PM
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Jeg, I will try using the Hayes again but help me a little more. What should the purple/black wire and purple wire (P comes through the firewall near the fuse box) be connected to for horn to work? I see it as the PB connected to one lead on the horn and the P plus a lead from the horn, connected to the fuse box for live voltage. Does this sound correct? My work with electricity on a scale of 0 to 10 is about a 2.

 Posted: May 4, 2015 12:35PM
jeg
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If the previous owners didn't chop up the wiring loom too badly, you probably have the purple wire that was originally connected to the horn under the lip of the bonnet's slam panel.  Maybe it's got 2 wires under there, purple and purple/black - connect them both and your horn should work.  The purple/black is a switched ground; the horn is always 'live' and startles the neighbors when grounded.

A suitable diagram should be in your Haynes -

The peasants are revolting...          

"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance

 Posted: May 4, 2015 03:38AM
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Thanks. Believe the car was used for racing so horn was removed. The turn signal arm is the level you push for the horn. Will see if I can find the level arm ground when it is pushed for horn. Would it be same ground as for the turn signals (same arm) and turn signals work? Getting what seems to be a simple problem solved is really difficult for me.

 Posted: May 3, 2015 10:08PM
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The horn itself does not need to be grounded, you should have permenant 12V to the horn and the horn button provides the ground. Make sure that the button is providing a good ground when pushed. I'd suspect the switch in the stork is no good hence the lack of a fitted horn?

Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch

 Posted: May 3, 2015 06:18PM
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Thanks.

 Posted: May 3, 2015 05:17PM
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US

Check the ground (earth) connection.

 Posted: May 3, 2015 05:09PM
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My 1971 mini came without a horn. It has wiring for a horn. Turn signal lever works for turn signals and is for horn when pushed in. Found purple/black wire from horn lever and attached it to the new horn in the engine compartment. Ran the other lead from the horn (horn does work....checked it) to the fuse box and then opposite side of fuse box to power. What am I missing/overlooking to get the horn to work????