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 Posted: Sep 5, 2015 12:34PM
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Just to update for future reference. When I assembled everything, I depended a lot on pictures that I had taken 5 months earlier when I disassembled it with my brother-in-law. Apparently while I stopped to take a picture, he pulled out the tube from the valve block to the converter, so on assembly I did not put it in, and for some reason it had gotten mixed with the parts from my original engine.

I noticed the tube on a picture on the internet.

I also found some leaky o-rings, so sent out to buy them and will assemble in the morning with the tube.

 Posted: Sep 4, 2015 08:50AM
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Some might have followed pieces of this in the other threads, but here we are, with all the forward clutch pack and cover replaced with a pre-assembled one.

engine is back in the car and still won't move the wheels. At first I was getting a lot of foam, but foaming appears to have stopped, but it still won't move the wheels. The drive couplings moved when turning the clutch pack.

I went out and bought a pressure gauge that would go hign enough. In N, 1, 2, 3, and D I get 100 psi. In R it fluctuates between about 148 and 155.

Looks too low, so I'm about to pull it again and replace o-rings. Thoughts?

What is it supposed to be? I read where it should be for all Minis, and where it should be for all 1300s, and that all Minis have the Neutral safety switch inside, while mine is under the front bumper. This is a 1992 transmission (parts stamped from february to June 1992)

 

 

 Posted: Jun 26, 2015 08:01PM
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using your picture the shuttle valve is arrowed. its sitting on top of a thin copper pipe. just pull on the top of the center bit and it will pull upwards and off.

make sure it is free to slide and that there is noting blocking the hollow copper pipe it sits on and the pipe outer surface is not marred - it needs to move fairly freely.

A groove between those 2 sealing rings part 68 allow the oil from the aux pump to travel into the forward hub and move the shuttle valve out.

hope that helps

cheers

Barri

some new cars, 99 disco II, 88 jag xj40, 76 cadilac de ville 500c.i. (8.2l), 74 450sl, 69 lotus 7, 61 countryman (restoration)

the best view is always from the point of no return

 Posted: Jun 26, 2015 01:19PM
 Edited:  Jun 26, 2015 02:02PM
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The mistery is solved........... Without a happy ending for now.

I'm guessing that this engine/trans combination came out of a car that was whacked on ene left side. That would explain the cracked end cap, which I had welded. But before putting it on, I decided I'd better check the clutch discs, as long as I had that end apart.

That is when I discovered the friction discs were bent inwards, and what I guess you'd call a pressure plate is shattered.

I've written to Jpat for prices.

BTW, I cannot find the location of that "shuttle valve" different books use different terms, but haven't found that.

 

 

 
 
 
 

 

 Posted: Jun 22, 2015 04:31PM
 Edited:  Jun 24, 2015 07:44PM
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finally found the picture of the little o ring inside the shuttle valve. its a bugger to remove and get back in correctly.

If it fails then the shuttle valve can hang up and the valves have no pressure to change between forward and reverse so the car could just sit there not doing anything in any gear - in theory - although that would not explain your pressure leak unless that is a separate problem

some new cars, 99 disco II, 88 jag xj40, 76 cadilac de ville 500c.i. (8.2l), 74 450sl, 69 lotus 7, 61 countryman (restoration)

the best view is always from the point of no return

 Posted: Jun 22, 2015 05:20AM
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the tow valve is number 6 in the diagram.

The cracked auxilliary pump end plate may be your problem however.

When you tow start the car the aux pump in the end plate is driven by the wheels turning and generates enough internal pressure to push upen the shuttle valve in the forward clutch pack to open the tow valve and start the egine  (ie push starting or tow starting). If the auxilliary plate is cracked and not generating enough pressure to move the shuttle valve in the forward clutch then you will get the same effect or much more likely you have jammed the shuttle valve or blown out the little internal o ring inside the shuttle valve inside the forward clutch.

The teflon rign needs to be a tight fit - it comes in the rebuild o ring kit from Jpat or can be bought separetely from jpat. If buying stuff from jpat then check the 2 sealing rings on the forward clutch where it goes into the aux pump (parts 68) and also the oring 24 which goes inside the internal bore of the shuttle valve 147. All of them could be related to the problem. I am currently dismantling an autobox to rebuild but it will be a few weeks beforew I can take pictures of the parts for you.

cheers

Barri

some new cars, 99 disco II, 88 jag xj40, 76 cadilac de ville 500c.i. (8.2l), 74 450sl, 69 lotus 7, 61 countryman (restoration)

the best view is always from the point of no return

 Posted: Jun 21, 2015 02:45PM
mur
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I worry that such a crack may have been the result of a spectacular failure elsewhere.

 Posted: Jun 21, 2015 02:26PM
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Not the cause of excess pressure, but this crack in the cover certainly explains part of the oil flow onto the floor.

 Posted: Jun 20, 2015 02:10PM
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I have the valve block completely out and have checked each, with no stuck valves. I did find that the o-ring between the oil tube in the cover and the valve block was flat and worn. Hopefully a friend found a new one. It looks like a common size.

But I'm also wondering about the thing that looks like an o-ring or seal but is white plastic and goes in the low pressure valve.
 Does anyone know if this needs to seal completely or what the symtoms would be if there is it is not a tight fit?

 Posted: Jun 7, 2015 12:52PM
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From everything I've read, I've got a stuck "tow valve". I'm planning on taking a few days off in a week or so and pull the engine/trans assembly to take it apart and fix it. I've found a bunch of diagrams and parts drawings, but none identifies this "tow valve"


Anyone have a picture or drawing with it identified?

 Posted: May 17, 2015 08:57AM
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My friend was unable to measure the pressure, as the dash gauge I will install is electronic, and apparently I don;t have a pressure gauge in my set of gauges (thought I did). But he adjusted the linkage as in those pages and identified that in D there is no excess pressure, but the wheels give no indication that they want to go anywhere. It is in R that it kicks out all the oil.

 Posted: May 15, 2015 03:24AM
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yes, it is thin and hard, that is why I turned it on a lathe to open up the groove for a decent flat gasket. Should know the pressures today.

 Posted: May 14, 2015 04:40PM
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I once had a spi mini auto jap car. The rubber seal comes with the filter and is a flat rubber seal, not like an oring. I had trouble sealing it a couple times, everything has to line up perfect. I'm not saying you aren't doing it right, but I had some problems. The metal can around the filter is thin and I had to be really careful to really eyeball line it up. And there is an oring around the bolt. It seemed pretty sketchy to me.

 Posted: May 13, 2015 03:20AM
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Thanks. I got an email from Todd that he no longer answers problems and corresponds with people about their problems.

Temperatures this time of year where I have the truck is about 60 in the earliest morning, but 75-80 in the afternoon, and I'm using 10W-40.

And thanks for the manual. I'll read it after I get to the office.

 

 Posted: May 12, 2015 08:30PM
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I just scanned a couple of pages from the foulis manual

couple of things to check for oil leaking from oil filter bowl seal, make sure you are running 10w40 and if its cold 10w30 - I dont know how cold Bolivia is at the moment  but if you are at high altitude it could be a problem see the first page scanned.

Also according to the book the tow start valve can sieze in the valve block and cause a problem of oil leaking from the filter bowl - I have not seen either problem in the autoboxes I have worked on but its worth checking. Remember you can pull the valve block through the front plate.

the manual also stresses that you need a good seal and the bolt has to be torqued to 20 ft lbs.

OK cannot upload pdf's so I have sent the pdf to your email address and copied jpg's of the pdf hereEmbarassed

cheers

Barri

some new cars, 99 disco II, 88 jag xj40, 76 cadilac de ville 500c.i. (8.2l), 74 450sl, 69 lotus 7, 61 countryman (restoration)

the best view is always from the point of no return

 Posted: May 12, 2015 04:13PM
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Quote:

I sent a note through the google group. can't figure out how to PM you, but I registered under the same user name as here, with rwidman at gmail

Hi richard I cannot see your contact email - just the minimania email. I have sent you an email (from my gmail account) copied to Todd telling him you are not an evil scammer! Can you just confirm you have recieved it so I know your email is rightSealed

cheers

Barri

some new cars, 99 disco II, 88 jag xj40, 76 cadilac de ville 500c.i. (8.2l), 74 450sl, 69 lotus 7, 61 countryman (restoration)

the best view is always from the point of no return

 Posted: May 12, 2015 03:43PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gurunutkins

If you send me the email you used to try and get onto the website i will ask Todd if he will give you access. the group is also at google groups so you email [email protected] and the forum (as such) is at  //groups.google.com/group/bmc1100.

The oil goes to the filter then valve body and the transmission first (thats why you have to adjust the valve body rod as in my earlier post or the pressure could go anywhere if its not sure where the automatic valves are) so make sure that the adjustments are made not the neutral switch which is on the gear lever but the actual rod that moves the valves inside the valve body - from there the oil goes to the engine - thats why short oil change intervals are important. You can measure pressure at the filter head or at the small bolt on the front of the valve body cover on the transmission.

Generally John at JPat is incredible with these boxes so if he has not seen it then its probably something unexpected Sealed

cheers

Barri

I sent a note through the google group. can't figure out how to PM you, but I registered under the same user name as here, with rwidman at gmail

 Posted: May 12, 2015 03:38PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard1

no, haven't driven it yet. Replaces a diode in the computer, figured out how to wire an SPI, and got the engine running, adjusted the valves, although I still haven't connected the little air hoses and the vent hoses. Once it was running I tried putting it in gear, and no movement in any direction. Accelerating blows the oil out, but does not move the wheels.

I'm talking about the rubber gasket between the canister and the aluminum housing. It was not sealing on an o-ring, so I put in a flat rubber gasket, which did not fit too well, so I put the head on a lathe and widened the groove to hold a wider rubber gasket.


I'm not with the truck now, but sent a note to a friend to go to my house when he can and check the pressures.

With the loss of all gears (unusual) after checking the low pressure switch i think at the minimum you are going to have to do is pull the front cover off and remove the valve body if possible to check everything is moving correctly along with the band adjustment while you are in there. If all seems ok then the next thing i would look at would be the torque convertor. The main problem i have found with the automatics is people do not service them every 1500 to 2000 miles like they should and run them until the oil is beyond black and dirty especially the Jap spec ones which sit in traffic idling for long periods running the a/c and heating everything up at the same time, most of them are hanging on by a thread by now as they are now up to 20 years old but you may also be looking at a re build.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: May 12, 2015 03:32PM
Total posts: 397
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US

If you send me the email you used to try and get onto the website i will ask Todd if he will give you access. the group is also at google groups so you email [email protected] and the forum (as such) is at  //groups.google.com/group/bmc1100.

The oil goes to the filter then valve body and the transmission first (thats why you have to adjust the valve body rod as in my earlier post or the pressure could go anywhere if its not sure where the automatic valves are) so make sure that the adjustments are made not the neutral switch which is on the gear lever but the actual rod that moves the valves inside the valve body - from there the oil goes to the engine - thats why short oil change intervals are important. You can measure pressure at the filter head or at the small bolt on the front of the valve body cover on the transmission.

Generally John at JPat is incredible with these boxes so if he has not seen it then its probably something unexpected Sealed

cheers

Barri

some new cars, 99 disco II, 88 jag xj40, 76 cadilac de ville 500c.i. (8.2l), 74 450sl, 69 lotus 7, 61 countryman (restoration)

the best view is always from the point of no return

 Posted: May 12, 2015 03:02PM
Total posts: 606
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Member since:Mar 11, 2010
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US

no, haven't driven it yet. Replaces a diode in the computer, figured out how to wire an SPI, and got the engine running, adjusted the valves, although I still haven't connected the little air hoses and the vent hoses. Once it was running I tried putting it in gear, and no movement in any direction. Accelerating blows the oil out, but does not move the wheels.

I'm talking about the rubber gasket between the canister and the aluminum housing. It was not sealing on an o-ring, so I put in a flat rubber gasket, which did not fit too well, so I put the head on a lathe and widened the groove to hold a wider rubber gasket.


I'm not with the truck now, but sent a note to a friend to go to my house when he can and check the pressures.

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