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 Posted: May 20, 2015 07:06PM
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Springs, cones, whatever won't affect camber either...

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: May 20, 2015 02:08PM
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Not to my knowledge. I've owned it 10 years and totally rebuilt everything (twice) and it has never been shimmed and has never been right after the first rebuild. Maybe there were shims in there at one point. I put blue coil springs in it, I wouldn't think that would change anything but camber though. I'm gonna mess with it in a few days. Will post updates. Todd

 Posted: May 19, 2015 03:45PM
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US

has the car been curbed?  and bent the radius arm(s)?

 Posted: May 18, 2015 05:04PM
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I measured the center of the tire from left to right at the front then the back, the toe-in was 1/2". Not good! I'm gonna start shimming and see what happens.

 Posted: May 18, 2015 02:44AM
jeg
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If it helps, there was some good dialogue in this thread:

//www.minimania.com/msgThread/116584/1/1/Rear_Swing_Arms-Shims_Alignment

The peasants are revolting...          

"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance

 Posted: May 18, 2015 02:32AM
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It will be interesting to hear the outcome if you go ahead...

I don't have any direct experience as I've been using Minisport adjustable brackets for years.

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: May 17, 2015 12:10PM
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I can look at the rear wheels and tell they are way off. Ian, the numbers I listed came directly off minispares website, but I think it was a typo and should be .032" (.81mm) will be added to the toe out reading. Good call. Maybe that will help.

 Posted: May 16, 2015 10:58PM
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I would drive it the way it is. You'll not detect a difference and it won't have any effect on the handling.

The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it. G.B.S. Sarcasm is the lowest form of wit. Oscar Wilde

//www.cupcakecooper.ca/

 Posted: May 16, 2015 06:12PM
 Edited:  May 16, 2015 06:23PM
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"....says it is .028" and adds .32" toe out."

a third of an inch???? Not b78^$y likely... maybe 1/32 (around 31 thou) of an inch but going by the factory specs this would need a 20 thou shim.

20...28 ???? Close enough for sailing ships as we used to say....

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: May 16, 2015 05:37PM
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I had a laser alignmnet done so I knew where to start. I ended up using a bunch of homemade .010 shims. I was able to dial the rear right in. I knew my toe in was .88 degree at one point

 Jason

 Posted: May 16, 2015 04:16PM
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The ck17 shim says it is .028" and adds .32" toe out. But I'm not sure how that figures with how jacked up my toe in is. Math was not my strong point in school, skipping school seemed to suit me more. Thus, here I am.....

 Posted: May 16, 2015 03:58PM
 Edited:  May 16, 2015 04:01PM
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According to the factory manual, a 10mm (40 thou) shim will reduce toe in by 1/4 degree or 1/16th.  They recommend no more than 3 shims to a total thickness of 120thou.  They also note that these shims are "non standard" - and provide dimensions, presumably to allow you to make up your own...

Cheers, Ian

PS they give 1/8" as standard toe in... but I like a bit less (zero to 1/16th).

 Posted: May 16, 2015 02:29PM
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I am curious as to how many shims I will need to add on the rear. I have no shims in there now and major toe-in. The alignment shop wants $150 a side to shim. I have several CK17 shims so I figured I can get it close. Here is the info they gave: Left rear 1.04 and Right rear .57 I think that is in degrees. This means nothing to me so I figured someone on here would know to give me a starting point. Thanks, Todd