Rear Toe-In. How many shims do I need?
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
May 20, 2015 07:06PM | 1963SV2 | |
May 20, 2015 02:08PM | tvander | |
May 19, 2015 03:45PM | Minimike1 | |
May 18, 2015 05:04PM | tvander | |
May 18, 2015 02:44AM | jeg | |
May 18, 2015 02:32AM | 1963SV2 | |
May 17, 2015 12:10PM | tvander | |
May 16, 2015 10:58PM | Cup Cake | |
May 16, 2015 06:12PM | 1963SV2 | Edited: May 16, 2015 06:23PM |
May 16, 2015 05:37PM | DyeLooper | |
May 16, 2015 04:16PM | tvander | |
May 16, 2015 03:58PM | 1963SV2 | Edited: May 16, 2015 04:01PM |
May 16, 2015 02:29PM | tvander |
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Springs, cones, whatever won't affect camber either...
Cheers, Ian
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Not to my knowledge. I've owned it 10 years and totally rebuilt everything (twice) and it has never been shimmed and has never been right after the first rebuild. Maybe there were shims in there at one point. I put blue coil springs in it, I wouldn't think that would change anything but camber though. I'm gonna mess with it in a few days. Will post updates. Todd
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has the car been curbed? and bent the radius arm(s)?
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I measured the center of the tire from left to right at the front then the back, the toe-in was 1/2". Not good! I'm gonna start shimming and see what happens.
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If it helps, there was some good dialogue in this thread:
//www.minimania.com/msgThread/116584/1/1/Rear_Swing_Arms-Shims_Alignment
The peasants are revolting...
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It will be interesting to hear the outcome if you go ahead...
I don't have any direct experience as I've been using Minisport adjustable brackets for years.
Cheers, Ian
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I can look at the rear wheels and tell they are way off. Ian, the numbers I listed came directly off minispares website, but I think it was a typo and should be .032" (.81mm) will be added to the toe out reading. Good call. Maybe that will help.
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I would drive it the way it is. You'll not detect a difference and it won't have any effect on the handling.
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"....says it is .028" and adds .32" toe out."
a third of an inch???? Not b78^$y likely... maybe 1/32 (around 31 thou) of an inch but going by the factory specs this would need a 20 thou shim.
20...28 ???? Close enough for sailing ships as we used to say....
Cheers, Ian
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I had a laser alignmnet done so I knew where to start. I ended up using a bunch of homemade .010 shims. I was able to dial the rear right in. I knew my toe in was .88 degree at one point
Jason
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The ck17 shim says it is .028" and adds .32" toe out. But I'm not sure how that figures with how jacked up my toe in is. Math was not my strong point in school, skipping school seemed to suit me more. Thus, here I am.....
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According to the factory manual, a 10mm (40 thou) shim will reduce toe in by 1/4 degree or 1/16th. They recommend no more than 3 shims to a total thickness of 120thou. They also note that these shims are "non standard" - and provide dimensions, presumably to allow you to make up your own...
Cheers, Ian
PS they give 1/8" as standard toe in... but I like a bit less (zero to 1/16th).
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I am curious as to how many shims I will need to add on the rear. I have no shims in there now and major toe-in. The alignment shop wants $150 a side to shim. I have several CK17 shims so I figured I can get it close. Here is the info they gave: Left rear 1.04 and Right rear .57 I think that is in degrees. This means nothing to me so I figured someone on here would know to give me a starting point. Thanks, Todd