If you contact our host and give them the Mini Spares part number you listed i am sure they can find what you need some of the stage one kits even come with them i believe.

I found this mount

BRACKET EXHAUST GEARBOX ROD CHANGE - MINI & MINI COOPER 

But can't find the bracket to fit the larger exhaust on MM.(MANIFOLD CLAMP 1.75" COOPER FREEFLOW WITH TAG)

Just seeing this, bud. Sorry I didn't see it earlier. I would have told you that my carb is the same as the one you're trying to remove. haha. Glad you got it figured out before buying mine, though I would have given you a refund if it had gone the other way.

Yes those look like the parts you need i believe it can be done with just the one bracket/strap and clamp also.

If it is for sale on MS it should be for sale here also.

Nearly final  question.  The mount to secure the exhaust to the gearb box.  The original part i bought is obviously to narrow.  Is this the right combo? (also, i couldn't find the parts on MiniMania)

//minispares.com/product/Classic/Exhaust_and_manifold/Mountings/GEX7088.aspx?1103&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/GEX7337.aspx%7CBack%20to%20search

//minispares.com/product/Classic/Exhaust_and_manifold/Exhaust/Exhaust/C-AHT98.aspx?110201&ReturnUrl=/product/Classic/Exhaust_and_manifold/Mountings/GEX7088.aspx%7CBack%20to

Yes something along those lines. The Mini suppliers sell them but they are not stainless,the stage one kits i have seen usually come with them.

Something like this?

//www.westmarine.com/buy/shields-rubber--t-bolt-316-stainless-steel-exhaust-hose-clamps--P011_333_002_006

Or use the flat band type clamps which are far superior and are far easier to remove plus they do not pinch and crimp the pipe when tightened saving a lot of frustration, the ones sold at Marine supply stores are stainless and work really well although a bit pricey.

Them's my nuts you're talking about! (yer last sentence make it even funnier!) But good advice... on all accounts. My clamp is pointed that way because of the shifter rods. The main consideration is to not have anything hanging down below the level of the transmission sump (if that struck something, an exhaust clamp would be the least of one's problems). At the rear, which rides a bit higher anyway, the pipe clamp before the muffler would not hang down below the muffler, and should be oriented down so as to stay clear of the rear subframe, floor etc.

Image Gallery

Here's a HS-4 mounted on the MiniSpares version of the alloy manifold. Only the needed studs were installed. It does include the aluminum spacer.

When you fit the carb to the manifold, you will notice that the manifold hreat is probably 1.75" diameter, whereas the carb would be 1.5". To improve flow, I tapered the hole in the spacer to make a smoother transition and cleaned up casting roughness around the mouth of the manifold. If you do this it will help flow and reduce turbulence. Don't polish the throat inside - the roguhness helps atomization.

When you clamp the pipe on to the header, clock it so that the nuts are pointed towards the driver-LHD normal driver, so that the clamp has the least amount of exposure to being scraped on speed bumps. The one in the photo is almost where it needs to be. Leaving the nuts pointing straight down will end in sadness!

The diagonal flange on your carburettor tells me that it's an HS4.  The exhaust manifold comes with a banded clamp that has a tab attached to it.  This is what attatches to the gearbox differential. Assuming you've bought a proper and complete stage 1 kit, and assuming nobody has monkeyed with the carburettor's float chamber grommet (//www.minimania.com/part/AUC1336/Grommet-Float-Hs-Front---30-Degree ), then everything will be fine.  The heater hose which exits the bulkhead and joins the radiator's lower hose is what you'd cut and remove a section from if you'd like to connect it to the intake manifold. 

The kit:  //www.minimania.com/part/C-STN17/Stage-One-Kit-998-Mini--Mini-Cooper-Stage-1

The image:

The installation instructions:  //www.minimania.com/C_STN17_Stage_One_fitting_instructions

Edit:  The attatched image is Dan's installed Maniflow Freeflow manifold differential brace, identical to that represented in the C-STN17 image.

Image Gallery

Wait i think i already have a Su Carb Hs4

Questions from the shop.

1. The new manifold will be a more accute angle.  Is that ok for the carb? Owner wasn't concerned as much as the guy working on my car.

2. The new intake has water lines in/out.  Do they spice them in with the hot water line by the rear side of the engine?

3. Enhaust mount.  The clip the goes from the rear of the transmission to the enhaust. The clip i have is for the stock exhaust, the new exhuast is MUCH thicker.  Whats the right part?

See thay are cheap as chips !!!!! All kidding aside the HIF 38 or HIF 44 uses all four studs you just remove or don't install two of them when using a 1.5" HS4.

How?  The intake i have has 4x in a box shape.  This has 4 all towards the top?  Do I end up just using 2 of the holes?

Yes

Would something like this fit the 4 bolt pattern???

//www.minimania.com/cars4Sale/12366/Part__Mini_HS4_Carb

You don't need to buy brand new, refurbished etc. You only need one that hasn't been messed up. call Jemal and see what he has on hand, or dig into the local mini community a bit and find one. One from an Austin America will have a nice throttle actuation, for example. 

So the intake has the 4 bolt pattern and this is the only one that seemed right

//www.minimania.com/part/FZX1414-REB/Carburetor-Su-Hif38-Rebuilt-Carb-15

$325, not exactly cheap as chips

Or this would work too, just using 2 of the mounting points on the intake, right?

//www.minimania.com/part/FZX3003-REB/Su-Carb-Hs4-pre-Wax-Stat-Rebuilt-Pre-1980-15

still $325

A stage one kit will not give you the full performance benefits without the HS4 1.5" or HIF 38 1.5"carb. If you really want to install the 1.25" HS2 you will need to drill and tap the new manifold or cut your old manifold apart off the exhaust manifold and use the new header with your old inlet manifold and carb. HS4's are cheap as chips just bite the bullet to get the full effect of the stage one kit.