worn out hole ...in front subby
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thanks dan
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would a small level on top of the swig arm help, or is that really stupid?
i would assume it has to be straight across.
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thanks for the info doug.
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This is also a fairly common failure mode on the lower front suspension arms on MGBs. As Rick and others suggested, a heavy washer welded to the subframe should repair the damage (this is also the common fix on MGBs). To locate the washer, make careful measurements from the other side. If possible, make a paper template from the good side to help locate the washer.
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thanks mousy, i'll be putting new arms in anyway, so as soon as itake apart all
the other bits on the subby, it will be blasted and painted and welded. thanks again
everyone...that saved some money.
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Mousy
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the correct position seems to be the real problem. how does one find that.
what would you do to know that the welding is in the correct position?
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Mousy
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Probably just reduces a bit of antidive in the front geometry.
It looks like the pin still moves so I'd be betting that its been like that for some time. The usual cause is failure of the inner upper bearings. This jams the pin into the upper arm which means the pin rotates in the subframe rather than the bearings as its supposed to.
I think I'd be tempted to get the washer welded in placeas the nut alone may not hold it in the correct place.
Cheers, Ian
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my main concern is how would you know if the end of the pin hasn't shifted up or down.
you wouldn't want the pin to be on an angle. do you get what i'm tryin to explain?
cuz i'm not sure i'm conveying things correctly.
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Belts and braces, you could weld the washer in place...
Sean Windrum
1996 MGF VVC
1970 1275 GT Racer
66 Austin Countryman
63 997 Cooper (Under Construction)
63 MG 1100
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larry,it seems like a pretty important part of the front suspension to just basically leave it be...no?
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Unecessary over kill IMO. If you put on a thick washer and tighten the nut there will be enough friction to keep it from moving.
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i figured maybe a plate of some sort could be welded, not that i would
be able to do it, but i would be concerned about mounting it in the right spot
thanx again rick for the input.
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Take a close look at the opposite side first. Check to see how much thread length is needed for lock washer & nut. Maybe a small plate of 3/32" - 1/8" steel stitch (not continuous) welded over the worn hole and carefully drilled out will do the trick. Scribe the center of the hole on the subbie beyond where the patch is to be welded so that you can accurately locate the hole to be drilled. First center punch, drill pilot hole, then take out to size.
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thanx for the info rick. the subby looks pretty good other than that.it is out of the car.
i think the pic makes it look like a punch to the right of the hole, but it's fine.however
it was hit in the left rear quarter. how would a repair be made on something like that?
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Not sure the worn hole would necessarily have caused the Mini to "pull to the lerft".
Question is, why did this wear pattern develop? Does the front subframe show any other unusual dents, bends etc.? Any ervidence the Mini was ever in an accident on the left front side?
Cant say for sure from the photo but the subframe might have been dented by a punch to the right of the hole....???
If the front subframe is straight...need to have it out of the Mini and empty for diagonal measurements and close examination...yes, it could be repaired.
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this is a picture of my front subframe where the left upper swing arm goes through.
correct me if i'm wrong, but does this hole look a little worn?.big question is, can
it be repaired or does the suframe have to be replaced. the other side is fine and
when i used to drive it, the car always pulled to the left. culprit? i think so.