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 Posted: May 24, 2015 08:57PM
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thanks dan

 

 Posted: May 24, 2015 07:52AM
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US
Assuming you've mounted the subbie perfectly the same on all 4 corners technically you could do that, but seems easier to take measurements from the opposing side or trace a template.

 Posted: May 24, 2015 07:37AM
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would a small level on top of the swig arm help, or is that really stupid?

 i would assume it has to be straight across.

 

 Posted: May 24, 2015 06:32AM
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I was going to suggest a template from the other side. Appears to have worn from the top as it has a non worn looking circle to it from the photo. Anytime I pull a subbie I just go ahead and order all new components since the majority end up needing replaced more often than not.

 Posted: May 24, 2015 05:56AM
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thanks for the info doug.

 Posted: May 24, 2015 05:35AM
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This is also a fairly common failure mode on the lower front suspension arms on MGBs.  As Rick and others suggested, a heavy washer welded to the subframe should repair the damage (this is also the common fix on MGBs).  To locate the washer, make careful measurements from the other side.  If possible, make a paper template from the good side to help locate the washer.

Doug L.
 Posted: May 24, 2015 05:13AM
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thanks mousy, i'll be putting new arms in anyway, so as soon as itake apart all

the other bits on the subby, it will be blasted and painted and welded. thanks again

everyone...that saved some money.

 Posted: May 23, 2015 10:21PM
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CA
SInce the pin is under load from the susp cone/ Doughnut , the hole will wear from the top down. Remove the doughnut , move the pin the the highest point in the hole , then weld a washer to the subframe. Shouldn't be too difficult but make sure to check the needle bearings and shaft for seizure .

Mousy

 
 
 Posted: May 23, 2015 08:54PM
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the correct position seems to be the real problem. how does one find that.

what would you do to know that the welding is in the correct position?

 

 Posted: May 23, 2015 08:00PM
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CA
This is usually caused by a seized pin in the bearings ,then the shaft will rotate in the hole . Not the way it was designed to work. Seen this before...... I would remove upper arm , check pin and bearings.replace as needed Weld a hardened or grade 8 washer on to the subframe in the correct position and you should be good to go!

Mousy

 
 
 Posted: May 23, 2015 05:56PM
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Probably just reduces a bit of antidive in the front geometry.  

It looks like the pin still moves so I'd be betting that its been like that for some time.  The usual cause is failure of the inner upper bearings.  This jams the pin into the upper arm which means the pin rotates in the subframe rather than the bearings as its supposed to.   

I think I'd be tempted to get the washer welded in placeas the nut alone may not hold it in the correct place.

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: May 23, 2015 05:04PM
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my main concern is how would you know if the end of the pin hasn't shifted up or down.

you wouldn't want the pin to be on an angle. do you get what i'm tryin to explain?

cuz i'm not sure i'm conveying things correctly.

 Posted: May 23, 2015 04:06PM
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CA

Belts and braces, you could weld the washer in place...

Sean Windrum

1996 MGF VVC
1970 1275 GT Racer
66 Austin Countryman
63 997 Cooper (Under Construction)
63 MG 1100

 

 Posted: May 23, 2015 02:16PM
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larry,it seems like a pretty important part of the front suspension to just basically leave it be...no?

 

 Posted: May 23, 2015 02:09PM
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Unecessary over kill IMO. If you put on a thick washer and tighten the nut there will be enough friction to keep it from moving.

The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it. G.B.S. Sarcasm is the lowest form of wit. Oscar Wilde

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 Posted: May 23, 2015 02:07PM
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i figured maybe a plate of some sort could be welded, not that i would

be able to do it, but i would be concerned about mounting it in the right spot

thanx again rick for the input.

 Posted: May 23, 2015 01:59PM
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CA

Take a close look at the opposite side first.  Check to see how much thread length is needed for lock washer & nut.  Maybe a small plate of  3/32" - 1/8" steel stitch (not continuous) welded over the worn hole and carefully drilled out will do the trick.  Scribe the center of the hole on the subbie beyond where the patch is to be welded so that you can accurately locate the hole to be drilled.  First center punch, drill pilot hole, then take out to size.

 Posted: May 23, 2015 01:13PM
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thanx for the info rick. the subby looks pretty good other than that.it is out of the car.

i think the pic makes it look like a punch to the right of the hole, but it's fine.however

it was hit in the left rear quarter. how would a repair be made on something like that?

 Posted: May 23, 2015 12:28PM
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CA

Not sure the worn hole would necessarily have caused the Mini to "pull to the lerft".

Question is, why did this wear pattern develop?  Does the front subframe show any other unusual dents, bends etc.?  Any ervidence the Mini was ever in an accident on the left front side?

Cant say for sure from the photo but the subframe might have been dented by a punch to the right of the hole....???

If the front subframe is straight...need to have it out of the Mini and empty for diagonal measurements and close examination...yes, it could be repaired.

 

 Posted: May 23, 2015 08:43AM
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this is a picture of my front subframe where the left upper swing arm goes through.

correct me if i'm wrong, but does this hole look a little worn?.big question is, can

it be repaired or does the suframe have to be replaced. the other side is fine and

when i used to drive it, the car always pulled to the left. culprit? i think so.