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 Posted: May 25, 2015 07:18PM
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US

I ordered the right side HS diff cover for the rod change box, and will use the left cover off my diff.  That should cover it!

 

Thanks,

Craig

 

"I drive a Mini. What are you compensating for?"

 

 Posted: May 25, 2015 02:49PM
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Some/most rodchange side covers have enough meat in them to machine 1/8" bigger for the S bush and seal. I've done a few this way.

Kevin G

1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.

 Posted: May 25, 2015 01:31PM
mur
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There are side covers for the larger HS outputs that fit the rod change box. There are HS outputs that will snap on to pot joint style rod change outputs, and fit normal rod change side covers. Note, you have yoke type outputs so you would need different output shafts.

Since this is for an interim drivetrain, yokes would be the way to go.

 Posted: May 25, 2015 11:45AM
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Thanks, yes I can see on the right side cover (and another forum member pointed this out to me) that there is an extra flange that holds in the shift rod detent spring.  He recommended swapping out my 3.1 CWP and left side cover (buy a new Hardy Spicer RH cover).

I'll add a lower engine steady since I'll be losing the stability of the remote housing.  

 

"I drive a Mini. What are you compensating for?"

 

 Posted: May 25, 2015 06:57AM
mur
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HS joints are larger than yoke types, so you need different side covers on the transmission, but you can use the yoke type joints with the HS drive shafts.

the rod change shifter will work with one of the off the shelf remote to rod change brackets.

 Posted: May 25, 2015 06:18AM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRMINI

You can run Hardy Spicers or rubber unis on either S driveshafts or the early ones- splines are the same. Shaft length is a mm or two different, but they work fine. I am now using Hardy Spicers on early driveshafts. No problems at all.

I thought the output shafts from the rod change differential were different size than the remote diff spicer shafts?  If I'm wrong, that is good news as I'd rather use spicer u joints.

 

"I drive a Mini. What are you compensating for?"

 

 Posted: May 25, 2015 12:55AM
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You can run Hardy Spicers or rubber unis on either S driveshafts or the early ones- splines are the same. Shaft length is a mm or two different, but they work fine. I am now using Hardy Spicers on early driveshafts. No problems at all.

Kevin G

1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.

 Posted: May 24, 2015 11:11PM
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I acquired a MK3 Cooper S engine (AEG 312) which I'm considering running until I figure out what to do about my worn out (needs re-sleeving) Pre A+ Cooper S.  The 312 is in good condition and runs well.

I currently have a remote shifter and Hardy Spicer u-joints.  The AEG 312 is mounted onto a 22G1832 rod change box, and has yolk style u-joints.

Question 1:  Will the rod change box mount with a new rod change conversion kit, or is something else required?

Question 2:  Will my splined axles work with the yolk coupling assembly, or will I need to install the axles that came with the new engine into my hubs?  The car the motor came out of was running front drums, and my car has 7.5" S discs.  Are the axles the same?

 

I want to figure out what I need to do the conversion so I can order it all at once if I decide to run this motor.

Thanks

 

"I drive a Mini. What are you compensating for?"