Choke Cable
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Jul 8, 2015 07:04PM | Spitz | |
Jul 8, 2015 08:20AM | thewerewolf | |
Jul 8, 2015 07:33AM | Johnny | Edited: Jul 8, 2015 07:41AM |
Jul 8, 2015 03:59AM | jeg | |
Jul 8, 2015 03:54AM | dklawson | |
Jul 7, 2015 09:49PM | miniboy | Edited: Jul 7, 2015 09:51PM |
Jul 5, 2015 05:38PM | jeg | Edited: Jul 5, 2015 05:49PM |
Jul 5, 2015 04:50PM | 1963SV2 | |
Jul 5, 2015 04:27PM | Craig | |
Jul 5, 2015 04:13PM | bikewiz | |
Jul 5, 2015 03:33PM | miniboy | |
Jul 5, 2015 12:41PM | jeg | Edited: Jul 5, 2015 01:01PM |
Jul 5, 2015 12:18PM | miniboy | |
Jul 5, 2015 11:04AM | Spitz | |
Jul 5, 2015 10:30AM | Cup Cake | Edited: Jul 5, 2015 10:33AM |
Jul 5, 2015 09:49AM | miniboy | Edited: Jul 5, 2015 09:49AM |
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Oh man those carbs are purrdy
Hope you get them working well
You might want to consider a top steady for the other side ( ultimate engine steady ), or at least one on the gearbox to make sure they dont foul on the firewall.
"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
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ooooooooohh weeeeeeeeee what a nice looking engine bay...
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Choke bracket as fitted to special tuning kit.
//mk1-performance-conversions.co.uk/h4_fitting.pdf
Fitting instructions thanks to Mk1 performance conversions.
You can also steal the cross bracket, stirrup and choke levers from bugeye Twin H1 setup.
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Cool - nice carbs -
If you like, check out this H4 parts page - FZX 3056
I must admit that I'm having a bit of difficulty finding the specific choke cable bracket for you.
I'm not sure about this one connects, although I'm sure it's somehow correct - ABF 226
You might want to give Berlen or Joe Curto a call.
The peasants are revolting...
"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance
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Those are indeed H series carbs, not HS series. Jeg posted the links for the bowls you will need. That may correct the overflow issue but I would still check the float valves to make sure they are clean and operating freely. You said the car sat for a while so old fuel could have gummed the float valves up.
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Just recently when it was fired up after sitting for months I noticed fuel dripping out of the passenger side carb overflow tube. This has not happened in the past and has left me worried about future occurrences.
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Ian's post gave me an idea, so I decided to check the ST parts lists and cross-reference the Berlen Fuel Systems parts catalogue.
Sure enough, 30° float chambers (2 5/16 inch diameter) are listed as:
Left Hand: AUC 4815
Right Hand: AUC 4814
Pricy, but available...
The peasants are revolting...
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The wrong angle means that the float bowl doesn't work properly.. ideally you want the fuel sitting level in the bowl - which it won't if the bowl is at an angle, which it will be if the carb is not mounted at the right angle. The Mini manifold is cut at a steeper angle to tip the carbs up a bit to clear the crossmember/firewall.
The good news is that the H4 is THE upgrade for a Mk I - its what the works Team used. The rules allowed a change in carb type as long as the original manifold was used. You'll note that the H4 has vertical mounting holes just like the HS2 and unlike the HS4 which has them at an angle.
I'm sure there are sources in tke UK ..Burlen?? who could sell you the bracket to mount the bowl(s) correctly.
Cheers, Ian
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If they're original MGA carbs, the float bowl angle can't be changed easily. The H4 SU has a different bowl mount than the HS4s that came on MGBs and other later British cars. Also, the choke linkages for H4s are levers that operate together from a single cable that is located centered between the carbs. A picture or two showing both carbs with a close up of the linkage between them would be helpful in figuring out what can be done.
'72 Morris Mini - 1310cc, K1100 head conversion
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If you have a local bike shop they may be able to supply you with a step down ferrule for the "casing" of the choke cable they prevent them from rocking at the stop like Cupcake has suggested. The usual suspect is 5mm ID with a 4mm step down, I used one on my car. If you can't find one send me an email and I'll mail you a couple.
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Thanks for the replies everyone!
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If they're from an MGA, then did you change the angle of the float bowls?
AUC1316_Grommet-Float-Hs-Rear-30-Degree
AUC1336_Grommet-Float-Hs-Front---30-Degree
If the abutment bracket has a small slot in it located just forward of the throttle cable, you may be able to use one of these clips to secure the choke cable.
or
13H3472_Choke-Cable-Clip-For-Hs4-Carbs
The peasants are revolting...
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Looks like a twin carb setup with the wrong throttle linkage....whatever works.
The hole for the choke may be drilled already on the other carb
"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge
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There's nub on the the body of the carb. Drill a hole through it for the cable, then carefully drill a shallow hole for the sheath. Tou can do this because you have a pancake filter. If you had a normal airfilter that sits on the top of the carb you could not do this. Here's a picture of what I mean. There's a ferrule on the end of the cable in this case.
[URL=//s129.photobucket.com/user/LarryLebel/media/hifchoke_zpsfa179fd9.jpg.html][/URL]
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I need to install the choke cable on the Mini that I am rebuilding. However, I have run into a slight issue. The cable that I purchased (from minimania) does not have any means to secure it to a bracket in the engine bay. The throttle cable (that I purchased separately) has a small plastic clip attached to it which allowed me to secure it to a bracket. I am looking for a similar solution for the choke cable. Does anyone know if it is possible to buy these small plastic clips? If not, what would be the next best solution?