it feels like it slips only because it is worn out.

thanks for the details on how to adjust it i will check.

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Glad to hear that you're making progress.  Yeah, it's a bit unusual that the stock engine requires the AAA, but if it's got an alloy intake and cylinder head mods, then sure, it's getting there..

Adjusting the clutch is easy:

Assuming that there's no oil dripping from the split pin dangling from the hole in the bottom of the clutch housing and that the clutch components are in relatively good shape:

Throw out stop adjustment:

• Loosen the 15/16" nut at the base of the clutch arm (some people don't use this nut to limit throw)
• Fully depress the pedal - I normally hold it in position with a block of wood between the pedal and crossmember under the front seat
• Use a 15/16" wrench on the big nut at the bottom of the clutch arm; the nut should only just make contact with the clutch cover and tighten 1 flat more.
• Snug the locknut if fitted

Return stop adjustment:

• Disconnect the slave cylinder spring
• Loosen the 7/16" lock nut on the clutch return stop bolt
• Lever or pull outwards the free-play in the clutch arm (I think it should be a long arm pre-verto clutch setup, the arm is approx. 8" long) and hold it here
• Back the return stop screw out of the clutch cover until it barely touches the arm
• Turn the return stop screw inwards 1 'flat' - the Haynes says to use 0.50mm, but I've always just used 1 flat.
• Snug up the return stop locknut
• Reconnect the slave cylinder spring

Easy peasy...

ok here are the results. got the needles from Joe.

AAU, much better but still not it, afr falls too much

AAA realy make the car alive. i can make the AFR stay within 13:1 most of the time, idle is perfect. car escapes like a scalded cat.

i am wondering why it would need such a rich needle, i am sure the car is stock. something happened when the guy in Montreal rebuilded the carb.

new problem: the clutch slips. the newfound power cuts it. actual owner never realy knew

Can't answer for the Canadian ones Dan but pretty sure the UK ones did by then, i assumed they would be running the same exhaust systems.

Did 1977 Canadian Minis have a resonator? Or did resonators come later?

With reference to the muffler and carb elbow they both look to be stock items (apart from what looks like black tape on the tailpipe) although the center box/resonator looks to be missing.

Although very effective, you could lose some weight by replacing that bumper ( and rear ) with the more common stainless variety.
(necessitating a welded on lip)

Your indicators have already been moved from their original location, attached to the bottom of the bumper ( which is also lower than it should be )

That sucker weighs about 12kg !

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here is the poor litle car. picture of the muffler and the carb and the air cleaner. ordered the AAU and AAA needle from JOe.

to be continued.

thanks

See my response on this thread. If I can do it, anybody can! No hosting, flickr, icloud or anything needed. (I did i twice while composing my post there.)

Post a picture

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You mentioned that the exhaust has been changed - the airfilter housing should obvously 'fit properly'.  Remember also, that the stock ADD needle was selected by the factory in conjunction with the stock paper air filter and the stock exhaust system.  When popular modifications are made, for example the Stage 1 kit - K&N, alloy intake manifold, freeflow exhaust manifold (header), RC40 performance exhaust) it's necessary to change the carb needle.  I believe the Stage 1 kit for the 998 comes with an AAU needle.  Makes sense, really, when the engine breathes deeper, it needs more fuel...

Uploading images from your hard drive is possible, though nobody ever notices the green box - I've also done a quick Excel graph of a couple of needles - maybe you can use this. 

The Big Spring that Dan wrote about won't affect the mixture during steady prolonged cruise, unless it's a very stiff one that prevents the piston from rising - you want to use the 4½ ounce spring (called the Red spring) - easily measured on a postal scale.  Accelleration pickup is governed by the spring, oil, & damper. 

For the viewers at home who aren't necessarily familiar with the venerable SU, the (steady) cruising mixture is governed by the needle.  Though the biased needles have 16 measured increments (every 1/8") along it's length, only the first 13 will be used to meter fuel.  As demand by the engine increases (under load), the needle rises and the thin bit gives a bit more fuel to the air rushing through. 

Generally, positions 1 &2 are for idle conditions.  Postitions 3 - 6 are for part throttle cruise and for 20 - 50 mph accelleration in top gear.  Positions 7 - 13 would be for high speed cruising and full throttle conditions.

dang this web site doesnt host images....i will have to retrieve my flickr psw....

The elbow from the carb has a flange on top that should fit snugly up into the plastic air filter housing.  It's then held in place by the two "winged" hold downs

Only just yesterday I was fitting a new HS$ carb set-up to a car.  The elbow that was on the carb actually did not fit easily at all....had another laying around that fit perfectly.  There may have been different casting through the ages 

Correct Wix filter  is #46094

i will post picture tonight

2 concerns i found this morning

1-the muffler, or the absence of it, looks to me like a plain flow trought resonator of some kind...quite noisey

2- the air filter mounting (stock plastic round element), doesnt seal at all over the carb, cover is loose, so it act like no filter at all, absence of airflow restriction, could affect the carb operation i guess (!!)

Yeah... LA air looked like Spitz's backyard pics of Prince Albert a few days ago. Even as late as 1989, Chicago had a brownish tinge to its sky on a bright, 'clear' July day.

You're probaby right, Alex. The car I had with it had a 998 and the smog pump etc. I binned the pump and sealed the ports, but never had the head off. It ran fine without it.  I'll adjust my post for "posterity".

Ok, fair enough - just that sometimes people post a problem and we don't know much about what they know or are capable of, therefor I'd asked.  As far as 'tuning carbs with the wheels up in the air', well, David Vizard isn't exactly daft when it comes to the A-series engine and SU carbs. 

I wish you well in your endeavor - remote diagnosis can be difficult.  I know how frustrating it can get.

Perhaps you could post a picture or 2 or maybe a YouTube video for 'us' to see and hear what you're up against?

lol...

i am far more versed into carbs than you think. dont get me wrong, i played a LOT with webers on dyno sessions, megasquirts, SDS systems and whats not, on the race track too with 2002's, 911 and even a 190sl. i tuned a friend TR6 like a swiss watch.

i do have several wide bands systems, diagnostic tools, synchronisers, vacuum meters, thermocouples and even an Allen computer analyser (the big electronic device with a CRT).

I even made a tool for the 2002 enthusiasts (search 2002 tune box on youtube)

Who tune theirs carbs with the wheels in the air ? i would realy like to see that just one time. must be funny.

i clearly mentioned the car lack power at first, reason the owner brought it to me.

its obvious i am measuring the AFR while driving, but since i didnt said it, i guess its legetimate to ask ?

the carb wouldnt run at all with neither of the springs or with the vent holes put backwards, thats it.

the car runs, accelerate modestly but simply lack power as the AFR rises up in the power band.

already blocked off the cranckase vents to no better results at all.

thanks for the helps.

I was not suggesting that the system was not an attempt to address air polutiuon. I am suggesting, that as an owner of cars with the actual systems back when they were suing them...the result was poor performance, loss of power and rough running. Today we have computers that deliver the pollution control....and give us lots more power. It just sucked to be part of the experement while they got it right.

It is just foolish to suggest that the air injection system did not do anything. It might be better to suggest that it did not do anything that you understand.

As with any other attempt, their goal was to reduce the concentrations of the various non H2O and CO2 by products of combustion by supplying fresh air immediately into the exhaust port to react with the still hot by products.

People have completely forgotten the smog that enveloped larger U.S. and Canadian cities in the early seventies.

We are incredibly lucky that these attempts were made by car makers, and improved, and that we have the quality of vehicles and commercial engines that we now have.

It didn't do anything on the 4 I owned...as it waas removed as quickly as possible, the hose blocked off & the power draining pump tossed into the garbage....and that was very common practice for all the ones I knew of. I'm surprised any of the pumps remained.  This was in the era of experemental polution control devices...where the 454 Corvette engine pumped out about 175hp!