Thanks, Ian! So my alignment should be pretty simple, just checking the toe, and I assume the thrust line. My car isn't pulling at all, and my tire wear is even all around, so my initial readings may be pretty close. I am just doublechecking because I had a new steering rack and bushings installed so I want to be sure before I put too many miles on my new tires. Thanks again for the info!

Those are pretty good numbers....noting that only front (twist tie rod ends) and rear (more or less shims) toe is adjustable on a Mini with factory suspension..

Up to the point where vibrations set in, more caster is generally a ggod thing.  Although, more caster = heavier steering... (noting that you do need aftermarket bits to dial in adjustments - for both caster and camber).

Cheers, Ian

So what would be some general guidelines for a car that doesn't see the track, but gets driven in a 'spirited' fashion? I've read recommendations in MC2 magazine (the classic guy's column) that suggest front toe out 1/16", rear toe in 1/8", and camber not more negative than -1 degree. These sounded reasonable to me, but then his suggestion for caster is -4 degrees! I don't even think I can adjust caster on my car (87, with 998cc engine and no rear adjustable control arms), but when I saw that number I started to doubt his other suggestions. I tried using the search function here, but it doesn't work very well, as it is searching for products with the word 'alignment' in it. Any help from the trusted souls who patrol these boards would be greatly appreciated. I am fortunate to have a shop nearby that can do an alignment on my Mini. Thanks!

I didn't have any trouble with stubborn fasteners when I installed mine, but I did have a problem with one of the bracket screws that sits behind the radius arm.  It had no threads to speak of and I needed to install a recoil/helicoil winding. 

T'wasn't a fun job without taking the radius arm off, but it can be done.

As you can conclude from all the posts, it can be an easy 1hr job or a multi-day nightmare.  My car luckily had a new rear subframe with new brackets and bolts, so replacing those with the adjustable ones was about an hour job including getting the camber and toe adjusted reasonable well with my home laser tool.  Obviously if one of the bolts had broken due to rust it would be a different story.     

If you have the time, you might want to think about recoating the brackets. Not sure I read where you are getting them from but I bought mine from Mini Spares and they arrived black. That coating lasted all of a minute. The car never saw ran and as been in the garage more then on the road. During this rebuild, I powder coated them. Should last a bit longer now. The outer portion of them are very visible. If looks are important.

Thanks so much for the tips.  Sounds like a common issue.  Brackets just came in today so I will soon enlist a bit of help with my friend with a lift.

Thanks, Jack

Never seen or heard of this "witch Piss"  Store or anywhere

Sounds good

 

Who goes to the store anyhow?

AMAZON !

 

//www.amazon.com/Schaeffer-Manufacturing-Co-0190-011S-Penetro/dp/B00JF2LI28/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1437185619&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=schaeffer+oil+pentro+90

And yet another option for stubborn bolts:
 www.schaefferoil.com/penetro-oil.html

My neighbor refers to it as "witch's piss"
Does an amazing job but can be hard to find.

As for a shop to do the alignment, look for one that is set up to do track race cars.

If you're in the states, look for a product called rust buster (autozone).  Forget about wd 40, that's not what it's for. And as for heat, the way it works, is to heat the bolt till cherry red and let it cool without quenching it.  What happens is the bolt shrinks when it cools.

Just use the rust buster and after a day of soaking the bits a few times a day, tighten a cinch as stated above, and then back the bolts out.

 

Many say that the best penetrant is a DIY 50/50 combination of acetone/tranny fluid. Chrysler also sells, according to a very knowledgable friend who researches things to the nth degree, a Mopar penetrant spray can that he swears by. Easily abtained. Randy

I just re-installed my adjustable brackets the other night. It isnt too hard but it can be a bit of a pain. Depending on what year I guess, access to the inner pivot bolts can be tricky. If you can get the car safetly REALLY high up (like on a lift) life would be grand. Also, the bolt holes for the new brackets dont always line up perfectly. Test fit first. Might have to open up one of the holes to get it all in.

The next challenge then will be getting the car actually aligned. If that shop can do it, great! I took my car to 4 shops that all said they could, only to find out the car is too small for the track or the tires are too small.

I highly recommend getting these though. The suspension on these cars are all over the place. Both mine and my brothers Rover Mini had a noticeable about of positive camber on the rear. Who knows what the toe was like. 

Yes! A very little... you just want to "crack" the friction in the threads, then try backing them out a little at a time, turning back in if they start to stiffen up. Do it slowly - the internal friction causes enough heat to seize it up again, resulting in tears and a broken bolt.

(signed... an expert bolt snapper!)

Sounds like more good tidbits to make this go better.

Thanks, Jack

Apply a good penetrant and let sit for a day or two...then try tightening the bolts a little (emphasis on "a little") before trying to loosen them.

And, every once in a while, the MOWOG god smiles down on you and the bolts come out without a fight...
On the Moke, forty years after she was put together, I was all prepared for a battle and was shocked when they just backed out without any drama.
Good luck with yours.

Thanks, Propane I can do.  Ill think on it   

Jack

Sometimes if the bolt is not rusted beyond fixing you may be able to get it hot enough with a propane torch.

Thanks for that pearl.  Im afraid the torch is out of my equipment list.  Will need to call in reinforcements

Jack