*UPDATE*

Figured I would post a little update. My shop and I have been working hard on our first product for the classic mini. We have designed what we feel to be a superior steering column drop bracket. The CAD model is currently getting the final touches made, then it will be 3D printed for mock-up. Once we feel the final design has been optimized, we will release a limited run, pre order/group buy for those that are interested.

We will be sure to keep everyone updated on the progress

Keep the ideas coming, it’s a great help/insight for us. We will be onto the next suggestion after this piece is finalized.

To respond to you and RedRiley:

Yes, functionally the same, but I'd like to see something that mounts in place of the stock heater valve and is controllable via the heater cable knob that confuses everyone. The only apapent diffference would be the second hose coming off it.

The "trumpet valve" analogy was intended to describe a push-pull valve, with the simplicity of the Mini heater valve. It need only be a basic barrel with the 3 ports and a sliding core with the appropriate channels. (Being an old trumpet player, its the valve type that came to mind.)

As for " not changing the plumbing that often"... maybe where you live. I'm willing to bet (not much mind you) that 99% of Minis sold (and bags of MG's, Sprites etc.) were driven daily with the valve closed until it was really needed. Then when they added the interior control knob and cable, the owner actually could oen and close it at his convenience. Apparently their engines werenone the worse for it. I wonder what the Owner's Manuals had to say about it.

Yes John I was one of the first with the T7 and it's the invisible heater that always works. Your long seat brackets are my second favorite and have kept my fat rear from ripping out the seat mounts on the twisties.

For years I've wanted to do an alloy A-series short block.  The one argument against is the ready supply of existing blocks.

But the argument in favor is:

1. The huge numbers of MGBs, Triumphs, Sprites etc that will always want more power and weight reduction.

2. The improvements beyond the weight savings; 5 mains, cross-braced webs and whatever other fantasies you want. 

3. It's the single heaviest part of the car and could cut your total weight by several percent.

I agree it's a lot of bucks to set up though and Coopertune Steve evaluated it and came to the same conclusion.  

To be honest, I wouldn't buy a trumpet valve type setup to handle my cooling system. You aren't changing the plumbing that often, and it seems to me that a simple 3 way ball valve like Riley posted would take care of the problem with a much higher reliability rate. Plus, the simple ball valve is easy to inegrate and hide.

That said, a 3 way ball valve tat mounts directly to the heater take-off on the head would pique my interest. input side bolts directly to the head, output options include output secondary radiator, inside heater core, and off. If it was done well, really simple and compact (not a big hairy thing hanging off the head) I would be interested.

Dan, how is that different from a standard 3 way diverter valve? 

this is very interesting, I have my heater directly plumbed to the head (no valve) to get max possible cooling, but for someone who lived in a warmer climate this would be a very good option. Would be a nice option to have both heater, aux rad, or both (for serious overheating moments)

OK... with all the discussion (other threads) about running coolant through heater cores, auxiliary, rads etc. and keeping a viable flow from the back of the head, here's my idea:

A heater valve similar to (or not) the standard cable-operated one but with two outputs instead of off/on. One output could be connected to the heater core and the other to an auxiliary rad, or just plumbed back to the lower main rad hose connection.

The design could be very simple:

• a sliding valve like a trumpet valve ... or....
• a rotary valve like a French horn valve.

Acually both these examples are double valves of what we'd need - they have two straight-through ports and two diverting ports. We only need to one set of straight + divert.

The returns from the heater and auxilairy need only be joined by a T or Y connection.

In the attached sketch of a trumpet valve, look at only the bottom port configuration. (ignore the return ports.) In the left diagram, the flow comes into the valve from behind and goes right. In the right diagram, with the valve depressed, the flow goes through the alternate path.

i would like to see a simple tray that attaches simply (magnetic even) to the slam panel to hold tools while under the bonnet of a Mini, should be easy enough to make and should sell well with the amount of work going on under the bonnets of these cars :-)

There have to be hundreds of those laying about in various garages from the amount of aftermarket filters i have seen on Mini's.

//www.dsnclassics.co.uk/retrosport-shop/engine-accessories/air-filter-bolts-retrosport-billet-alloy-all-hs4-carbs-pair/

Airbox wingnuts (see those I made from parts on this thread:  //www.minimania.com/msgThread/117883/1/1/Looking_for_wingnut__bolts__for_air_cleaner

Scott

Some of their stuff looks tasty!

Not sure where I have been hiding but I have never heard of Vortz before this tread. Whata shame. That stuff is amazing!!!

I sell the heavy duty column drop brackets and heavy duty seat extensions. 

On a seperate note, I'll have to think about more products, but one that comes to mind is I recently installed a T7 heater. I put it on a 2 speed push/pull knob and it is absolutely fantastic. A heater that is tucked up, out of the way, multispeed, still retains defrost. But there are still a few more tweaks that I would have liked to seen incorporated in it. A "bolt" in A/C kit for Classic A-Series that uses modern components, compact compressor off a suzuki, etc, nice under dash piece kind of like minitec, etc, multispeed heat/ac.

I usually like classic with a modern twist.  

A clean and classic intake system with small velocity stack and air box is something I have wanted to do for a while. Something that would look  at home on a classic car as well as a track car, and have different backing plates to fit twin or single carbs.

MED ?

1/2" high ( thick) stub stacks .

To fit : H 2 , H 4 , HIF 38 , HIF 44

Simple lath work in 6061-T651.

Regards

towjoe  

Now that you have me thinking a little two items come to mind. I'd buy an air box along the lines of the Vortz unit. Make it for dual 1.25 and 1.5 SU's as well as single SU's (should only need different backing plate for each application?) and clearance for RHD or LHD. And since I'm a Mk1 nut it must look "period correct" (no billet, carbon fiber). Oh, and affordable!

The second idea is also Mk1 specific, a repop of the tulip style steering wheel hub. Offer with early Les Leston and Momo pattern. Again make sure it looks right in an early car.

I would recommend taking a Kick Starter approach. Develop a prototype and go into production only after receiving enough pre-orders to make it a viable project. Lots of people raise their hand until it's time to drop some cash.

John

Disc brakes that fits in all 10" wheels without them popping out to avoid installing arches. 

Yes I knew of those as well, however like you said they are hard to come by, and I believe could still be improved upon.

Was talking with my business partner today and we figure that we will most likely release a beta version of whatever products we choose to build, and then sell them in a group buy or limited run format at a discounted cost, in trade for customer/community feedback. After hearing customers feedback and reviews will can augment the design and make a finalized version for the public.

If you could do me a favor and reintegrate a product that someone else posts if you would also like it, that way I can better gauge interest.