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 Posted: Nov 15, 2016 02:52PM
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[URL=//s190.photobucket.com/user/jgrsevilla/media/1973%20Mini%20Clubman%201275GT/IMG_2634_zps4jhd7uih.jpg.html][/URL]

Here is the aux radiator when I removed it. I found out that this was never an option and the install was terrible. I might install another one later on but so far it is at a constant 170 degrees without the aux radiator

Quote:
Originally Posted by tmsmith

I think there is no question that an aux radiator is warranted in some situations.

I would love to see more detail of the 1275 Gt radiator in this BAT listing:

//bringatrailer.com/listing/mini-clubman-1275-gt/

I am wondering if that is the stock aux radiator:

I do think that during the 40 years of production, cooling systems benefited from factory modifications.

At some point an aux fan was added for idle assistance, not sure when and what models.

The last version used the front mounted radiator which seems to be more efficient and it uses an electric fan.

My front radiator car has been through 108° F(42-34 ° C) temps. No question it was hot, but the stock temp gauge sat above the middle line and the oil temp(stock electric) got to a little over 120° C.

In the bay area we rarely see temps over 100° F. Yesterday; about 85 degrees, 45 minute cruise on the freeway, 3800-4000 RPM. 62 psi oil pressure, about 100° C oil temp and temp gauge just below the middle(stock gauge really only useful for relative values).

Terry

*1970 Morris Mini K (AUS) * 1973 Clubman GT (AUS) *

 Posted: Nov 14, 2016 05:32PM
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Congrats on buying that GT!

I had a similar problem to the OP in that my Clubby would get hotter the longer I drove it on the highway, around town it ran normally, although I did have an electric fan on a thermostat. My solution was to add a heater core under the bumper, but inside the engine compartment. The front end of the Clubby is a little different from a round nose car in that there are vents there below the bumper, so the air is directed straight thru the heater core I added. I also put a manual shut off valve inline as it gets cold here in the winter. All that done the car always ran right at the thermostat setting even on the hottest days from then on - as Edd China says - result!

 Posted: Nov 13, 2016 09:25PM
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Removed the very poor auxiliary radiator installed. Temperature of the car stays at 160 and climbs at a stop to 180 but nothing past that

*1970 Morris Mini K (AUS) * 1973 Clubman GT (AUS) *

 Posted: Oct 5, 2015 04:34PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hunter2

My extra rad is a GM pickup truck heater core...mounted one in a removeable frame in the Cdn. Mini 1000 sedan and strapped one to the grill in the Aussie Mini Window Van.

Space available differs for roundnose Minis from Mark I/II to Mark III on, especially thickness, so look at the space available closely.

Here in Canada, there are a large number of heater cores available in the catalogues in the parts stores....some for 1/2" hose, some for 5/8"...

There is a OZ built 1973 Mini Clubman GT for New zealand market being auctioned now (see details on the Mini Collective on FB).  These GT's had a factory installed extra radiator (last photo).

Is this a factory option in NZ?

*1970 Morris Mini K (AUS) * 1973 Clubman GT (AUS) *

 Posted: Oct 5, 2015 04:32PM
 Edited:  Oct 5, 2015 04:39PM
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I bought this car and still could not decide if I should take out the auxilliary radiator. It transmitts a lot of vibration because it is fixed to the body and the hoses are very hard you cannot even press it. I am debating is it is not a factory option I think I should remove it. Any comments?
 
1275GT

*1970 Morris Mini K (AUS) * 1973 Clubman GT (AUS) *

 Posted: Aug 2, 2015 08:42PM
 Edited:  Aug 3, 2015 12:47AM
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Capped the HIF38 vent then installed a little filter on the breather. Re-tuned and ready to go again. Ditched the version 1.0 heatercore and moved on to version 2.0 with this. Still working on a nice housing but this thing will dodge road debris like its nothing unless i crash into a wall or another car but its gonna hit the bumper overriders first. I'll find a way to tuck it in more. Like I said. It will keep improving it and yes I like tinkering with things that doesnt matter to some. It keeps me busy and the therapist likes it. Have a nice Sunday everyone.

Oh! Dont trip why the Lucas lamp is sitting on that HOme depot frame bar. I need that space in the middle for a badass rally plate and it will mount on those vertical bars so that new cooler will end up behind the plate but for now its staying there.

Thanks Dan for the tip!

image

 

 Posted: Aug 1, 2015 02:26PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armycook

Yes Dan. The carb vent end isn't attached to the crank case. For some reason when I attach it, the engine sputters like it couidnt breathe. I'm trying to figure out why. Maybe there's supposed to be a hole somewhere the carb that's clogged? 

Right now now thst aluminum tube is pointing down attached to nothing (open)

Ok then, the carb vent should be either connected to the crankcase vent(s) or capped, but not open. The crankcase vapours/blow-by etc. should be collected by that carb port for burning. What are your crankcse vents connected to - wee filters or are they just open?

With the carb port open, you have a big air leak, for which your tuning adjustments have compensated. Connecting it would cause the engine to run very rich - hence the sputters and grumpiness.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Aug 1, 2015 01:54PM
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Yes Dan. The carb vent end isn't attached to the crank case. For some reason when I attach it, the engine sputters like it couidnt breathe. I'm trying to figure out why. Maybe there's supposed to be a hole somewhere the carb that's clogged? 

Right now now thst aluminum tube is pointing down attached to nothing (open)

 

 Posted: Aug 1, 2015 11:51AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armycook

There's a fine line between fishing and just standing on the shore like an idiot.

The first perspective would be the fisherman's and the second the fish's?

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Aug 1, 2015 11:48AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwakil
Quote:
Originally Posted by armycook
Quote:

 

19997218609_855f3d360a_o

image

 

....  I still don't understand why a heater core line is connected to the carb vent?  Are you trying to vent your carb through your cabin heater core?

It is just an illusion of the camera angle. If you look at the front-on picture, you can see that the heater line goes elsewhere, and the carb vent goes down under the other hoses.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Aug 1, 2015 11:44AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boison
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Moffet

Yes. That's it, in a nutshell.

Cars with separate intake and exhaust manifolds have the intake manifold tube in series with the cabin heater after the heater. It is a cylindrical tube about 1/2" diameter. Since the copper (?) tube is cast into aluminum, it transfers a bit of heat, but probably does not contribute to cooling much.

Some cars do not have heaters; they may have an aux rad in lieu of a heater, in the heater circuit. 

that's the reason why i am thinking of installing an intercooler on my mini, i wanted to experiment if indeed there is an increase in Hp if cold air is being sucked in the combustion chamber,as suppose to warm or hot air. That theory has not been proven tho.

OK, but there are eally two very different conditions going here.

  • An Intercooler reduces (slightly) the air being drawn into the intake of a turbocharged engine to compensate for the hat caused by the turbo compressing the air. As in shop air compressor or even a bicycle pump, when you compress air, its tempeature goes up (adiabatic heating). A turbocharger causes the same thing happen. But warm inake air is generally not good, so the intercooler compensates for the adiabatic heating.

The tune through the intake manifold is to HEAT the manifold, not cool it. When your engine is running, and the throttle is partially open, the intake manifold is under partial vacuum because the cylinders are sucking on it. BUt the throttle is olny letting some air in. The drop in air pressure of that air causes adiabatic cooling. This can reduce the temperature of the ally manifold to below the dew point and even the frost point inside. Two things then happen:

  • the cool metal suface causes the fuel to condense, screwing up the ideal mixture and causing a loss in power. In humid conditions, water will aslo condense, jsut like on your beer glass (never drink from the can or bottle!)
  • if the inside metal surface gets cold enough, and the air is humid, the inside wall will frost up. Yes, frost up on a hot humid day, like your deep freeze. The frost can build up to the point of choking the engine ad casuing it to stall. My brother once had a VW Beetle chassis with the air cooled engine. Even those engines were built with a form of manifold heater, where the big engine fan exhaust was piped past the intake manifold. We had trouble making that engine run right until our Uncle Bob told us about the manifold heater. Once it was hooked up, it ran fine.


Armycook's engine might run even better if he tried running the coolant return through his alloy manifold - some retuning might apply. Maybe not since he lives in a warm, very dry (most of the time) climate. But he likes to tinker....

The pipe Armycook has across his engine is, I believe, a remnant of the early Minis with cast iron siamesed manifolds. The siamesed manifold is designed so taht some heat is ransferred from theexhaust tubes to the intake tubes to provide manifold heat. The coolant tube was just a neat way for the coolant to be piped across the engine bay.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Aug 1, 2015 10:18AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwakil
Quote:
Originally Posted by mur

That diagram does not have the water pump bypass, as A series and probably some A+ cars have.

the bypass is important to consider. The Blanking Sleeve, often considered a solution to cooling woes, really only served to prevent flow back to the pump via the bypass.

Still, discussing mini cooling systems on the Internet is a foolish past time. People do whatever they want for the least rational reasons.

Not sure how to draw in the bypass, or if mine has it.  Can you explain where to where the bypass is connected?

i was gonna show a picture of the bypass. I remember replacing that when I rebuilt my cylinder head and installing it back. I almost forgot it was there. but thank a God I did.

 

 Posted: Aug 1, 2015 10:14AM
 Edited:  Aug 1, 2015 10:16AM
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I apologize if I sounded pissed. My package came in from Germany after almost 3 weeks. And one of the Marchal lights glass is broken. I'm so pissed...

 image

 

 Posted: Aug 1, 2015 09:52AM
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It's a 1st version. Trial and error. This is what was inside the heater box I my 63 cooper. It doesn't leak and functional still. It's ugly yeah but it's the first stage. I work with what I have before buying improvements to make it fit the driving lifestyle. I did all this with scrap from my garage within less than 2 hours just to see what kind of improvements with my water temperature. You can google Heater core, oil cooler stuff and you will find many ways how to do this. Is it safe And will it hit road debris? yes of course! Did it work for my car? for now, yes. Will it fit inside behind the grill. In my car? No, because I have other stuff in there. My car is a restomod not a collector item. But with that diagram that you've made, your options to parts and design are limitless. You just have to find out why you really need it. 

The aluminum tube was intended originally for the return line from heater core to the rubber hose going back to the water pump. but since I don't need it now, I used it to hook the carb vent to it because this tube is also mounted to the rocker cover and I like that it's there.

 

 

 Posted: Aug 1, 2015 09:48AM
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Image Gallery

Here are pictures of the bypas and the intake with the coolant pass through.

 Posted: Aug 1, 2015 08:40AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mur

That diagram does not have the water pump bypass, as A series and probably some A+ cars have.

the bypass is important to consider. The Blanking Sleeve, often considered a solution to cooling woes, really only served to prevent flow back to the pump via the bypass.

Still, discussing mini cooling systems on the Internet is a foolish past time. People do whatever they want for the least rational reasons.

Not sure how to draw in the bypass, or if mine has it.  Can you explain where to where the bypass is connected?

1992 1275 SPI Mini

1981 Porsche 911 Turbo (930)

 Posted: Aug 1, 2015 08:31AM
 Edited:  Aug 1, 2015 08:38AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armycook
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwakil
Quote:
Originally Posted by armycook
Quote:

made my attempt to remove my heater core from the heater box. But instead of feeding the return hose straight to the rubber hose going to water pump, I still routed it back to the aluminum tube. It did improve a bit. I peak at 190

What aluminum tube?

Im not good with explaining so I made a diagram. I aplogize if this isnt a perfect engine bay but it works for me and what knowldege I have but please do point out some things that arent safe or if theres a better option Im all ears. Im still building a housing sturdy enough for the heater core but this should suffice for version 1.0   

19997218609_855f3d360a_o

image

image

You can't find a smaller core you can tuck inside the grill?  That looks like 4 inches thick.  Also, looks like the bumper will be blocking most of the airflow.  Assume you just wanted a temporary location to get an idea of cooling improvements?  Doesn't look safe, effective, and just the looks would be enough for me to scrap the whole idea.  I still don't understand why a heater core line is connected to the carb vent?  Are you trying to vent your carb through your cabin heater core?

1992 1275 SPI Mini

1981 Porsche 911 Turbo (930)

 Posted: Aug 1, 2015 07:28AM
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Roger that Mur. Let me process this and I'll get back with you in a bit. I'm picking up some gravy stuff for the mini at the post office. 

 

 Posted: Aug 1, 2015 07:03AM
mur
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That diagram does not have the water pump bypass, as A series and probably some A+ cars have.

the bypass is important to consider. The Blanking Sleeve, often considered a solution to cooling woes, really only served to prevent flow back to the pump via the bypass.

Still, discussing mini cooling systems on the Internet is a foolish past time. People do whatever they want for the least rational reasons.

 Posted: Jul 31, 2015 05:51PM
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It's really not that low. 

 

Found 95 Messages

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