Clutch stuck
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Aug 10, 2015 08:25AM | Boison | |
Aug 10, 2015 08:09AM | RedRiley | |
Aug 10, 2015 07:49AM | Boison | |
Aug 10, 2015 06:08AM | RedRiley | |
Aug 9, 2015 05:48PM | Johnny | |
Jul 28, 2015 06:27PM | Johnny | |
Jul 28, 2015 05:57PM | Boison | Edited: Jul 28, 2015 06:03PM |
Jul 28, 2015 05:48PM | Spitz | |
Jul 28, 2015 05:19PM | Minimike1 | |
Jul 28, 2015 09:26AM | Alex | |
Jul 28, 2015 05:39AM | Dan Moffet | |
Jul 28, 2015 01:02AM | Alex | |
Jul 27, 2015 10:00PM | Boison | Edited: Jul 27, 2015 10:04PM |
Jul 27, 2015 09:24PM | AWOODY | |
Jul 27, 2015 05:03PM | jeg | |
Jul 27, 2015 04:43PM | malsal | |
Jul 27, 2015 04:28PM | Johnny | |
Jul 27, 2015 08:16AM | dklawson | |
Jul 26, 2015 10:25PM | AWOODY | |
Jul 26, 2015 09:24AM | dklawson |
Found 30 Messages
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hahaha, i knew it, it was a sarcastic irony ,lol
you got me red!
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All of that work, and all you really needed was a shot of WD-40. You'll know better next time.
+1
atta boy redriley!!!??
//dictionary.reference.com/browse/irony
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All of that work, and all you really needed was a shot of WD-40. You'll know better next time.
+1
atta boy redriley!!!??
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All of that work, and all you really needed was a shot of WD-40. You'll know better next time.
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I took the cover off, pulled the Diaphram off and found that the clutch disc was free. So I put everything back together and readjusted. I have been doing some reading and found that the slave cylinder should have on average of about .55" of travel. The slave on this car was around .3" I installed a new slave cylinder and now the clutch works.
All the pins in the system seem to be new and tight. I feel like the stop bolt is pretty far out and the action is taking place at the end of the slave cylinders throw. The throw out arm looks ok, but i am temped to put a new one in see if it allows the stop to be screwed in tighter and allow the slave to work a little more in.
I guess I should have replaced both the master and the slave to start. You learn something everyday.
Thanks for all the help, John
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This car has been passed around a bit with different people trying to put it back together. It has been a real puzzle. I don't know who did what and what was done. Every step I take I find another challenge.
John
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you think the lubricant will stay in the clutch forever?? nope! it will evaporate and disintegrate, thats how i managed to clean my clutch system, since my main seal us leaking oil, stagnant oil attracted so many dust etc, i had to flush it with either wd40 or brake caliper cleaner , its going to dissolve all oil in there no matter how thick gunk it is. when i was flush it i saw the cleaner dripping and it was so dark and dirty. after i flushed it, i let it sit overnight to expel excess cleaner and dry out. the next morning no more juddering.
my mantra in life:----> think, discover, justify,explore and execute !!!!
...and get out of that box willya??!!
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A few years ago I pulled a "stupid" and installed the engine into my car forgetting to install the clutch release plate
The symptoms were as you describe....just a thought
(Item 13) //www.minimania.com/CatPage/3-3/3/3/0/Diaphragm-Clutch--Slave-Cylinder---1964-ON
Realised my mistake at about 0400....had it all done by 0700 in time for work
"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge
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holey crap. What moron would suggest putting a lubricant on a clutch disc? Sure way to insure you need to replace it.
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buddy if you suspect that the clutch pad or friction disc is stock to flywheel, do not remove that vietnamese hat looking clutch cover, it'll take you a lot of time removing that, what you can do is to remove the starter , remove the 2 bolts thats holding it to the engine then after you remove the starter you can actually see portions of the flywheel and the rest of the clutch components through the hole. Now let me ask you what is the best solution to use to dislodge sticking parts? yes you are right WD40, squirts some wd40 inside the hole make sure that its going to the flywheel, now let it soak overnight, the next day try to step in the clutch pedal you'll notice a big difference. no more sticking..
now people might say oh wd40 will make the clutch slide or whatever, yes it will slide for a while , but since wd40 is volatile, it will soon evaporate as you drive and everything will be back to normal operation.
Wrong again. Only the liquid 'carrier" solvent is volatile. It "carries" the lubricant and waxy portions out of the can and into crevices and evaporates, leaving the lube and waxy stuff behind. Otherwise it would be useless as a lubricant and wouldn't protect from moisture. WD40 has its place. On a clutch is not it.
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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buddy if you suspect that the clutch pad or friction disc is stock to flywheel, do not remove that vietnamese hat looking clutch cover, it'll take you a lot of time removing that, what you can do is to remove the starter , remove the 2 bolts thats holding it to the engine then after you remove the starter you can actually see portions of the flywheel and the rest of the clutch components through the hole. Now let me ask you what is the best solution to use to dislodge sticking parts? yes you are right WD40, squirts some wd40 inside the hole make sure that its going to the flywheel, now let it soak overnight, the next day try to step in the clutch pedal you'll notice a big difference. no more sticking..
now people might say oh wd40 will make the clutch slide or whatever, yes it will slide for a while , but since wd40 is volatile, it will soon evaporate as you drive and everything will be back to normal operation.
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If it is the clutch arm the next thing to do is get the 2 big nuts on the plunger and give them the weee test (throw them as far away as possible while yelling weeee!)
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I broke a clutch arm a few years ago; the ball sheared right off. I sent it back to MSC for analysis, they concluded there was a problem with the heat treating and that it was a bad one... But they did send a new replacement, so it was good in the end.
The peasants are revolting...
"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance
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When you take the arm out look at the end of it and make sure the ball is still round and not worn down on one side along with wear in all the clevis pins.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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I was checking the clutch pedal feel of a couple other similar Minis. It feels like the system of the troublesome car is going through the motions externally but not getting any work done internally.
More effort is required to operate the clutch pedal on the other cars. When I was first working with the problem car I thought it felt light, but just figured it was the character of the car. AWOODY may be on to something. I think it is time to start taking things apart.
I did try the driving stunt as suggested, just had to give it a go. I was able to do it but it did not break anything free.
John
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That is a good point.
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Check the clutch arm it may be broken or cracked at the bottom where the ball is , the arm will look like it has movement but if it is broken it wont actually be pushing the bearing in to make itall work (disengaging??).
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Those are the symptoms of a friction disk being stuck to the flywheel. You can try to break it free as mentioned earlier or diassemble the clutch cover and related parts to access the disk.
Found 30 Messages