Doug,

When the engine is not running I can select all the gears. When the engine is running, If I push the clutch in all I get is major grinding upon attempted gear selections.

John

I have had non-Mini cars where the clutch rusted to the flywheel and stuck.  You don't always have to take them apart to sort this as long as you drive the car periodically things should remain "unstuck" once you break things free.

I would like to clarify a few things though.  You did say you cannot select any gear.  Was that with the engine stopped or running?  If you can select gears with the engine off and not when it is running, that is consistent with a friction disk stuck to the flywheel.  You can break it free but as mentioned above you will need 75 to 100 feet of road and possibly a helper.  You also must have working brakes.

Start the engine in neutral and allow it to come to working temperature.  Switch off and roll the car to a spot where you have 75-100 feet of straight, level road. Put the car in 1st gear. Push AND HOLD the clutch pedal to the floor.  Do not release the clutch pedal until the friction disck breaks free.  Turn the key to start the engine.  The car will immediately start moving.  Accelerate hard while holding the clutch pedal down.  Now take your foot off the gas and continue to hold the clutch pedal down.  Now punch the gas pedal to the floor again.  Two or three cycles of on/off with the gas pedal and the clutch pedal down should break the disk free.  If not, switch off at the end of the straight section of road and enlist your helper to get the car turned around and headed back the same stretch of road.  Repeat the process if necessary.  You can add punching the brake pedal if deceleration when taking your foot off the gas is not enough.

Thank you guys for the replies. This type of help makes this community so great. I will digest this info for a bit and get back with some results. John

Have someone pump the clutch while observing the throw out of the arm. You said you got good throw.  If so, like mentioned above, remove the chinese hat, and have at separating the disc from the flywheel. It's a perfect time to remove the plunger from the hat and clean it up a bit. Remove any corrosion, and put a thin film of lithium grease on the plunger and hat bearing point.  Replace the throw out bearing as it's easy now and cheap insurance, and buy a new clutch disc also. Again why do this twice.

When you re-assemble the hat to the block, many choose to leave out the bolt at the 8 o"clock position.  It's not necessary and unless the engine is out of the car, very time consuming to remove and replace.

It does sound like a stuck clutch, which if you do have proper throw out, you might be able to start the engine in gear and bump it loose with the brakes, stalling it in gear a few times.  But you won't know the condition of the clutch disc.

you said you can't get to any gear??  im surprised nobody mentioned about the Syncro ? might be stuck. 

before you do this, make sure your brakes work. because the starter is going to push or pull the mini

 and you will need to stall the mini. It does work, I 've done it. a good safe distance is about 75 feet.

I agree that taking it apart is probably the prudent choice here, and except for the bottom bolt on the wok, it should be a fairly easy task. After unbolting and removing the pressure plate, you can likely get the disc free without necessarily having to remove the flywheel.

If you are getting travel at the clutch arm , then I doubt the plunger is stuck .Had stuck plungers before , customer bent clutch pedal trying to push it. My bet is the disc is stuck to a rusty flywheel / backplate. Time to take it apart ......

Mousy

It is possible

1. that the clutch disk splines are stuck on the shaft it sits on, and is being held against the flywheel,or
2. that the clutch friction surface has bonded itself to the flywheel or the pressure plate.

With the car in gear, the tansmission in 3rd or 4th (give the clutch the lowest mechanical advanage, you may be able to crack it loose while trying to start the car. Make sure you can keep the car immobile or have lots of safety room until you get it shut off.

However if (A) is the problem and the splines don't free up, you risk damaging the flywheel face, the clutch plate friction surfaces or the pressure plate (or any combination), meaning you'd have to do a clutch job, includiing cleaning up the splines.

IF (B) is the case, and it does break free, the friction material may be damaged, possibly scoring your flywheel or pressure plate.  Eventually you'd have to do a clutch job.

Better to bite the bullet, open it up and see why it is stuck. Less chance of making it worse that way. With a stock (original?) '56 S, it might be an expensive gamble.  Who knows - it may be just the plunger sticking.

Hi all,

I am working on someones very stock 65 1275 S.

The car probably has not moved on its own in over 25 years. The engine is functioning very well starts right up revs etc.

The problem is when I push the clutch pedal I cannot get into any gear, as if the clutch is not disengaging. The hydraulic system is working fine, I just renewed the master cylinder, slave is working, I am getting nice throw from the slave, and the arm is moving freely.

I have tried adjusting the clutch a few different ways, either with the factory shop manual, the Hayes manual, and some tech articles online, with no success.

I think the clutch and flywheel may be stuck together. Does this seem like the most logical problem? I have read that if you can get the car started in gear, while keeping the clutch pedal in you should be able to break this free by revving the engine.

Before I attempt this stunt, I am hoping to learn of some more thoughts , ideas or input.

Thanks, John