The best things about charcoal is that the flavour is great, it smells good while cooking (none of that rancid burnt grease smell) you don't have to worry about leaks and it won't explode. Oh... and it is a renewable resource!

Ah, old school.  Gotta love the classics.     (btw, I prefer blue)

Nope. good old Canadian hardwood lump charcoal. MMMMMMMmmmmmmm it was good!

Psst - Articles pages, Haynes, search this forum, read what's been 'splained to you, etc...

Ahhh, I love the smell of mesquite in the morning...

You don't get it because that guy doesn't know what he's talking about. Pumps generate pressure for a start. Watch this video which explains (eventually) engine lubrication. It is old, but the engine shown is a 6 cylinder Chev pushrod engine - about as old as the A-series design.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vz2p1SvuYjY

The low pressure issue is backwards. Oil pressure gets low because the very close tolerances it is supposed to fill get worn too big and the pump can't keep the space filled. If you finished watching the Chev video, you will understand this. The oil pressure to a bearing needs to be high enough to maintain the oil film. The bearing is under huge  pressures ( e.g from the combustion pushing down on the piston). It tries to squeeze the oil out but the pump keeps putting more oil in.  If teh gap is too big, teh pump can't keep up amd the oil film gets pushed away and the metal surfaces touch and wear out, making the gap bigger, and so on.

Nothing to debate. I'm going to start the BBQ. Real charcoal rules!

This guy: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeremy_Thorpe

thanks sir dan, i will do the adjustments as soon as i get home from work. i think i need to adjust air fuel mixture, the way the car sounds seems that it became lean.

//youtu.be/8f2fcbTh5yw

in relation to the video,,, i dont get it,, so it means that the pressure is directly proportional to the size of the spaces in between the bearings???  my question now is that why is pressure important???? to me as long as the oil goes to those spaces and lubricates the spaces to prevent metal to metal friction its good! the theory DOES NOT say that if the pressure is low the less lubrication these bearing gets.  i want to have a debate on this..who wants to challlenge me

I don't think you read what I wrote. I was talking about the COIL. It has two small terminals.

One terminal is connected to the ignition switch with a white wire, or white/green trace, or white/pink trace, or maybe a white/blue trace. (If you have a ballasted system, you would also have a white/yellow trace attached to the same post.)

NOTE if you do have a ballasted system, be careful you don't burn out the new coil. Without it the fires go out.

The other terminal is connected to the distributor. The standard wire is whie/black trace. If you have a tach, it will also be connected to this terminal. The stock wire is white/black trace, but an after-market tachometer may have another colour.

The 59D distributor has red and black wires. Red goes to the + side of the coil (fed from ignition switch) to provide power to the electronic module inside. The black wire goes to the - side of the coil to make the circuit to generate the spark. It is switched on/off by the module, just like points do.

I do not know the details of the 59D, but it seems to be electronically switched, so does not contain points, and therefore does not require internal adjustment. So all you need to do is set the timing properly, according to the 59D instructions.

Once you get the timing set properly, you should adjust the idle speed and mixtgure of the carb.

If you just put in the 59D, the old distributor may have been so bad, it was not supplying spark or timing advance, which would explain the 'dead dog' performance.

DO NOT try to his 95mph! If your engine is not mechanically up to it, you may bend a valve or connecting rod.

(BTW, we didn't make you suffer... you did it to yourself by not eading carefully and taking advice.)

just came back from a spin, and it was awsome!!!  bought the spanking 3.0 OHM flamethrower coil at pepboys,, installed it,turn engine on and it fired right up baby!!  took it out for a spin, yup it runs steady especially at high RPMs or at about 45mph. and in noticed first of , the  car runs quieter and smoother. 

Why didn't you guys told me about this before??? you let me suffer one year of agony using breaker points,my goodness!!!

im gonna try to hit 95mph tomorrow on the interstate....windows down!!!!

sir dan

, there are only two wires black and red.. then the module inside is red , i believe is ignitor 2.  

another question, if i switch to elec dizzy should i do valve gap or timing again? or adjust carb? etc?

ty

What colour are the wires going to your coil from the wiring bundle, not your distributor?

If you have a ballasted system, there will be at least 2 wires, plus one more if you have a tachometer connected. There should be one wire going from the coil to the distributor. This does not include the fat spark wire.

"Ballasted" just means there is resistance - a specific amount - in the wire coming from the ignition switch to the coil.

sir Dan,  i am using a 59d , but i dunno what a ballast is.

If you have a 1.5 ohm coil, you probably have a ballasted ignition system. That means your ignition runs normally on about 9 volts through a resistance wire (or resister). While you are cranking your engine, the solenoid provides full 12 volts to compensate for the heavy draw of the starter.

If you have a 1.5 ohm coil you should only replace it with a 1.5 ohm coil. A 3.0 ohm coil will give a weak spark on a ballasted system.

If you confirm your ignition is not ballested, then you should use a 3.0 ohm coil.

Using the wrong coil will either give a weak spark or the coil will burn out quickly.

Sir Dan and other electronic distributor Gurus, 

question; is it a must to use a 3 ohm flamthrower coil when using an ignitor 2 pertronix dizzy? or will it perform better rather than my stock1.5 ohm chinese coil?   whats the advantage?? thanks in advance

I think that there's something seriously wrong with you car. At 55mph, it should just sing right along. Going faster should just be a matter of mashing the go pedal down a bit.
You've got quite a few cc's more than my lowely 848 mouse motor and it doesn't complain at 70mph... Although the windscreen buffeting right in front of your face does tend to make the right foot a bit lighter...
Are there any British car specialists in your area? Doesn't have to be Mini, if they've worked on any Brit iron with points and SU's they should be able to point you in the right direction.
Seems like a much better investment than tossing whiz-bang distributors, carbs, and cold air intakes at it.
I'm never too proud to say when I don't know something.

wow sir willy, is that your mini???  awsome!!  dual carb is the way to go , i agree. ....i'll get there, soon

Image Gallery

   Bahahahahaha..... what a pu--y .... triple digits son ....just ask most anyone on here..

      show me a pic's of your mini...the lump and susp. set up....

Right now, my preferred maximum speed is 40-45mph, which is say 1/4 throttle, one time i stepped on the gas halfway and it reached about 55mph but noticeably the gas guage arm went down., it consumes too much gas at high speed. that's why i am avoiding it. , no vibration nor rattle nor wiggle, the car is steady at 55mph, engine sound is minimal tho., as far as i can observe, my mini is running smooth, i just do not know if it is running on it's peak performance or there is still room for improvement., what really sux is that i live in a remote area and i think the closest mini owner next to me is 200miles away., i don't have anything to compare my mini performance to.  but i will for sure try to hit 70 and see how the car behaves. but if ALL are experiencing same as what i experience on my car, i guess i just need to accept what i have.

As John says, we've been through the advantages. Between points and electronics, there's no advantage in HP. Powere is entirely having an engine in good condition, being fed the right fuel mixture (the carb etc) being burnt at exactly the right time (the ignition) and the exhaust carried away efficiently. Period. Everything works together.

The advantage of electonic over points is consistency of timing and advance curve, and not having to re-tune the ignition every few moths. Nothing more, nothing less. Your engine requries a specific mechanical timing advance curve. Your points distributor, if it is original to the engine and in good condition should be right for it. Every change to the engine (e.g. different air filter, induction tubing or exhaust system) means the curve may no longer be just right. But your engine must be running very well at all speeds for you to notice any difference. Part of installing an electronic ignition system is selecting the right advance curve for your particular engine in its particular condition. BUT AGAIN, your engine must run well at all speeds before you can select the right curve.

If you popped in a 123 (or other electronic) dizzy, it won't solve all your running problems. It may fix some but make others worse. If you pick the wrong curve you may potentially damage your engine further.

You need to get your car running so it will accellerate up to around 70 mph smoothly and climb slight hills without having to downshift. From what you've written it can't do that now. You need to find out if your carb is working right at all speeds and then fix the easy things in your ignition - better plug wires (yes, I've seen arcing, John), points polished or new, dwell set right and timing set right. Do that and you 998 will sing, even with a worn carb and distributor.

You really need to smarten up; go back and read the posts, do a forum search and learn.  All the relevant information to your query is available, also on this thread.

I've ran 60,000V through contact breaker points for many years - I've got 2 different coils that deliver it, one ballasted, one non-ballasted.  I've never seen a plug wire 'arc' - must be spectacular!  I made my own 'bumble bee' copper wires, too and have fixin's for another set with 'Champion' supressed caps.  (I use a coaxial cable crimp tool [hexagonal crimp profile] to fasten the connectors.)  You could do the same, or just order an ordinary set from Don...  Or just electrical tape your plug wires if you can't repair them.

Do you know if the vacuum advance unit on your current dizzy is correct for your engine?  I thought your mini was running great, and you've bee cruising all over the place last Sunday, why all the fuss!