heheh.. the way i think it, its pretty much like Mr Russell. Why not spend 100 bucks for a good base motor that touches the 1275 as road equivalent for my needs! And the rest 900 bucks developing it! Which would be a nice school for me and a very creative process as a car mechanic.. 

Just remeber if you use the AA gearbox the FD ratios are way off due to the bigger wheels on the AA's (1100's). On the plus side nothing will touch you red light to red light LOL.

Nope, sorry Dimitris, my `home workshop' is just a humble 6M x 6M garage. And 1/2 of that is parking for my Mini.
But I've got a Myford lathe, vertical mill, a drill press, a bench grinder, MIG, TIG, stick & oxy welders in there. And racking on 2 walls.
Then there's the dungeon, under the house...! Bandsaw & another bench grinder/belt sander.

Kev i imagine you having a very badass workshop

I'd not pay good money for a s/h 1098 crank without crack testing it first. Ditto old 1275 ones.

The extra stroke of a 1098 is good for more cubes, but makes the crank more fragile. I'll expect my 1108 to have the torque of a 1098 and the reliability of a 998.
It's probably not going to be a HP monster, the owner is only running twin HS2s.
The cam is Graham's latest, an RE266SS. Not to be confused with a Kent MD266 etc, as it has lots more duration @ .050" lift. Similar max HP to an RE13, but more torque.
Head is a mildly ported 202, fitted with 1.219" inlets and 1.070" exhausts.

I've located at least 5 Austin 1100s in Athens scrapyards, so i can get my hands on one really cheap..

Wish I still had an 1100. Picked one up and installed it when working on the 1275.

Had a lot of torque. Sold it to someone in California.

Really liked that power plant.

The 998 & 1098 are essentially identical apart from the crank & pistons.

The 998 is a 3" stroke and the 1098 is 3.3" - the extra 300 thou means that the compression height of the pistons (pin to crown) has to be 150 thou shorter on the 1098 so that they don't pop out of the top of the block.
The block, rods, heads, cams, etc etc are the same.

Increasing engine size can be done two ways - bore or stroke.
In very rough terms overboring increases the capacity and gives a bit more power.  Stroking increases the capacity and gives more torque.
Long-stroke motors don't like high rpms, but are just torque monsters.

i got your point Kev! you tell me that the easiest way to get torque is to increase engine size!

whilst i was more familiar playing around with different crankshafts..

I've got a set of the GR pistons, which he dished for me before posting them over.  Can't decide between the top end power of a rev-hungry 998 or the wall of torque I will get from a 1098 using his RE83 cam...

Might just have to do both...

The 1098 crank just has 7.5mm extra stroke, compared to a 998. So you gain 100cc.
998 & 1098 A series blocks are exactly the same. Ditto the conrods. So yes, effectively I'm overboring a 998. A 1220 would have been nice, but unworn and uncracked 1098 cranks are getting rarer over here.
At least with the 998 crank, it will stand being revved hard without cracking up....!

     cool .... 

            kudos to you for your service ... and what you have going on right now...

         i'm proud of ya kid.... keep up the good work....

Dude relax lol. Not talking about you Tony Montana lol

     dennis ..??? are we cross here ???

I don't know. No comment. You can tell anyway just by looking at how they type or talk in here. The ones that make some sense and some who just likes to talk none sense.

But anyway it's an interesting thread. I got someone local selling me a 1098 that needs rebuilding. it's so cheap but I don't know.. 

               [ boison ] ????    

The Mini was designed in the 1950s by Alec Issigonis, a Greek  ........

      say ...dimitris ..... how's the hash over there...???

Yeah but not all elders in this forum are wise. I'd stay with experimentation and getting advise from the good guys here.

for some reason i read your posts with an irish accent in my head and i just keep laughing..point taken