Starting Issue
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Last post: Mar 28, 2016 Member since:Oct 2, 2015
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I dunno how a starting fluid differ from gasoline?? What is its components? To me, if the engine or electricals or fuel system has issues, it has issues, no amount of starting fluid can even start it, and if the engine has no problem, a regular gasoline is enough to start it. Starting fluid should be categorized as snake oil. No more, no less! And i dont bite it.
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Yes. The configuration should be 1,3,4,2 for firing order. So they should be configured like below:
Spark plugs:4 | 3 | 2 | 1
Distributor Cap:
2 | 4 |
1 | 3 |
Your sketch confirms the sequence, but where is the rotor pointing when #1 cylinder is at top-dead-centre with both its valves closed? To my mind, the rotor should be pointing toward the 2:00 o'clock position (the sector you have marked 4), in which case you'd be sending spark to #4 cylinder when #1 is ready to go. In other words, you may be 180 degrees out of phase.
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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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Yes. The configuration should be 1,3,4,2 for firing order. So they should be configured like below:
Spark plugs:4 | 3 | 2 | 1
Distributor Cap:
2 | 4 |
1 | 3 |
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Yes, check the basics.
- coil connected properly and giving spark
- plug wires in the right sequence
- points gapped properly (I saw a car once where the owner had gapped the points between lobes, so the points were always open)
- condenser not shorted or dead
- points mounting plate grounded to body of dizzy (a tiny wee wire that can break or just be loose)
- rotor in good condition and installed
- cap in good condition and on securely
- plug wire sequence correct and connected
- plugs gapped and installed tight.
- static timing set correctly
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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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If it's not Scottish....it's crap! (Cry of the Mini Tartan Owners' Clan)
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If it does not fire on starting fluid fuel is not the problem.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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A bigger carb is immaterial. If the mounting flange holes for the carb are on a diagonal then its an HS4 as you indicate.
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it. G.B.S. Sarcasm is the lowest form of wit. Oscar Wilde
//www.cupcakecooper.ca/
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Shrimps thanks for the suggestion. I am located near Clayton Indiana. This is South of Indianapolis.
And Hunter to empty the gas tank I actually just disconnected the fuel line from the carb and put it into a gas can and then turned the key to the on position which pumped all of the fuel out. So it is definitely pumping fuel to the carb.
Talking about the carb though it does appear to be different than what was stock. My engine is an 850cc and looking at the rebuilt carbs for sale on this website it says the HS2 carb was originally used on the 850cc engines (//www.minimania.com/part/AUD359-R/Hs2-Su-Front-125-Rebuilt-Carburetor--Mini). However the carb on the engine looks to actually be the Su Carb Hs4 (//www.minimania.com/part/FZX3003-REB/Su-Carb-Hs4-pre-Wax-Stat-Rebuilt-Pre-1980-15) which does not mention the 850cc motor in the description. Could that have something to do with the issues I am seeing?
I will see if I can test the coil out. Thanks!
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Also, post your location; somebody may be nearby and willing to help you troubleshoot.
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Disconnect the fuel line from the carb direct it into a bottle and crank the engine...if fuel is being pumped you will know straight away.
If an HS carb (side float bowl), carefully remove the top of the float bowl being very careful not to damage the seal. Check that the needle moves freely. Carburettors can laquer up if fuel sits for a long time.
Assuming you have fuel and it is free to flow into the carb, I agree with Cupcake that you likely have a coil issue. Check all connections (clean and and dielectric grease).
IF no spark...at #1 cylinder, hold lead contact within 1/8" or spark plug on cranking to see if spark is delivered. No spark or weak, intermittent spark...change the coil.
(I installed a 45 year old Lucas coil with measured 2.6 Ohms resistance into my OZ Mini when just these circumstances arose and it fired right up Dec. 31, 2015 in time for our club's New Year's Day run - coils do not necessarily simply die, they can stumble along for a bit - in 2008, i had to swap out a coil on Hwy. 101 in northern California, when a coil was stumbling and dieing...again an old Lucas coil with measured resistance of 2.5 Ohms came out of my parts bin to serve once again!)
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Tough to offer advice on this one, as with all that has been done trying to get it started before posting here there may now be added compromises. If the piston in the carb does not move or if the choke is not working properly fuel is likely not getting drawn in. All the things that have been changed may have now created a moving target. A long-sitting car that doesn't start would suggest fuel delivery issues, gummed up components, perhaps a fuel pump issue. Once you can be sure fuel is making it thru the carb, then going back thru the ignition and making sure it's timed correctly should at least have it trying to start.
SE7EN
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My roomate who performed the test said blue was the spark color.
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What color is the spark. It should be blue. A yellow spark is not good. If its yellow change the coil.
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it. G.B.S. Sarcasm is the lowest form of wit. Oscar Wilde
//www.cupcakecooper.ca/
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Hello everyone! I recently purchased a 1975 Austin Mini and am having some issues getting started. I'm new to the forums, and not farmiliar if this is the right area to post this so if it is not please tell me and move it, or I will try to move it. So to the issue...
- The previous owner said the car did run when he purchased it. He would go out and start it and let the engine run monthly. He said he got busy and was not able to start it for a while. Then when he did go back out to start it after many months it would not start.
- The engine does crank, but does not try to actually fire.
- The spark plugs do spark. I just replaced the distributor rotor, distributor cap, plug wires, and plugs with brand new parts.
- Brand new battery purchased for the vehicle.
- The car had been sitting for a while so I emptied all of the old fuel out of the tank, and replaced it with new fuel.
- When puting fuel, or starting fluid directly into the carb it does not try firing.
- Compression test has been ran and appears to be fine.
All of those make me think that the fuel is not making it to the chambers, but I'm not a mechanic and am not sure what all could be causing this.
Thank you for any help!!!
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