Ok, I ended up replacing the flange, collar and bearings.  Replaced a leaking brake cylinder in the process.  (That's what was probably contributing to the swerving while braking).  Upgraded to the recommended tapered bearings as well.  So far seems ok.  The main concern I had on reassembly was when I torqued the axle nut to 60 ft lbs, and then had to go further to access the next split pin hole, the torque went up to probably close to ~110 ft lbs.  Its surprising that 60 ft lbs would be considered sufficient, yet 110 would be allowable too.

There is this part that is now bonded to the flange. It is called the collar. It is not supposed to be bonded to the flange.

Years ago, folks would fit 13" Vega GT wheels to minis, usually with Pirelli P7s. They looked awesome. The weight and offset would consume drum brake wheel bearings and differentials pretty quickly. You wrote about having deep dish wheels, and I suspect these would have similar leverage over the bearings.

I'm not sure what "collar is fretted onto the drive flange means"?  Is the collar part of the flange and it is fretted, or is the collar part of the hub or bearing?  I'm not quite ready to go to disks, would have to change a lot more including my deep dish wheels, etc.

The pictures don't really give enough detail but I suspect the collar is fretted onto the drive flange.

While replacement parts would likely come for the cost of shipping from some well intentioned person, I just want to point out that in the long term that is not doing you any favours.

This is the time to buy disc brakes.

 

yeah you bang on the cut outs firmly

In the process of trying to stick the flange back into the hub and then removing to clean and take better pictures I ended up disloding one of the inner races of the bearings so I'm basically in the process of replacing the bearings anyway.  I took some better pictures with the parts somewhat cleaned.  I could not get the rubber seal on the CV side of the hub out, but not sure if the outer race of the bearing on that side is holding it and I need to get that out first or what.  I really can't tell what part is the hub and what part is the race, so I don't want to  bang on the wrong thing.   From the last two pics can anyone tell me what edge I need to drift out?  Is it just below the notch that is cut out?  Any obvious damage anyone see.  Also included some better pics of the flange with the inner race still stuck on. 

Looking at the bearing picture number 1 top left, are those metal filings between the bering and the seal ? Also i don't like the look of the drive flange.

Well, it sure is dirty!

Is the collar seized onto the drive flange? It takes the brunt of the wear. 

Is that a ridge worn into the collar, where it faces the bearing race? Is there similar wear on the CV joint?

since you got so far change the bearings..

Some pics of the drive flange:

OK, here are the pictures.  I can't tell anything wrong, but I don't know what to look for either:

 

... and the risk is not just having the wheel come off. Bad bearings might overheat and seize or the hub could get loose enough that something jams up. Either way the wheel may stop turning, which is not pleasant thought at highway speeds. Lock one wheel with the power on and the diff tries to make the other wheel turn twice as fast. (Minis do not cart-wheel well...)

All that has to happen is the nut spins off....

I'll be taking it apart at the next chance, but wanted to verify one thing:  From looking at the parts diagram, in order for the wheel to fall off, you would have to have the drive flange completely break apart, or for the hole to wear out so big that the entire nut goes through it.  Let's imagine the bearings completely disintegrated, wouldn't you have a terribly wobbly wheel, and I imagine all kinds of noise & vibrations for miles before a 1/4 inch thick cast iron flange wears away or breaks?   When I tightened the axle, I don't get any kind of rough feel with wheel turn, no noise, nothing.  Am I still being overly risky here? 

jwakil,

My sincere advice is disassemble the hub, post photos of the sleeve & thrust face of the drive flange so we can help you...both could be worn/damaged.  The hub & bearings might also be damaged.

Wear on the outside of the sleeve that goes over the splines will be plainly visible.  Wear on the thrust face may not be as apparent to a first time examiner.

Everything you describe screams component failure to me.  At my age having a serious problem is no fun, having a wheel come off would be terrifying...I would take that hub assembly appart before driving another mile.

Having had a front wheel bearing set on a Metrio 8.4" brake set up disintegrate at 60 mph on the Gore Hwy. in Australia, the flange failure I described above on Cooper S 7.5" brake set up and having worked with my sons' two daily driven Minis that had twin leading shoe drum brake set ups, I have seen wear in all of them.

Rick/Hunter2

PS - The disc/drum flange difference are almost irrelevant: they can both wear such that torque can not be maintained...your situation.  Minis go fast safely when well maintained.

SEE BELOW

You are wise to keep an eye on it, if it has come loose twice i am guessing you have flange and or bearing wear and it may/will happen again. Test drive it in a deserted area if you have to, be safe for yourself and other road users it is not that big of a deal to pull apart when you need to.

I was not being snide.

Subtlety did not work.

I only wanted the original poster to have these critical assemblies in correct order. 

 

It sounds like they are, in fact, not sorted out. I suppose mentioning that could be seen as being snide too.

That was a beautiful response to the previous snide remarks.

The 'errors' were the owner not giving the details ( and a picture)  that he had drum brakes and therefore ball bearings,  and the responders assuming all along that he had tapered roller bearings. General lack of proper facts, as often happens.   No meanness intended by either party, unless someone knew all along and withheld his wisdom.

Ok, in that case I guess we need to get rid of this forum.  I'll let Minimania know.  I was following the Haynes manual procedure, and there are not too many 'experts' on classic mini axles in my neighborhood.  I can understand that if someone had a disk brake model that they might not know that drums don't have the tapered washer.  I wouldn't put them down for leading me astray.  Their advice plus those of other's here combined is invaluable.