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 Posted: Feb 4, 2016 07:43PM
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I got the new valve stems for the hydrolastic today.  They are regular size shrader just like a car tire.  The old one is on the left and the new on the right.  No wonder I had a tough time finding an adapter to fit and no luck filling the system.  I will try to recharge the hydro system this weekend.  All that I need now is an adapter from 1/4" pipe to the threads on the master cylinder.

 Posted: Feb 4, 2016 08:07AM
 Edited:  Feb 4, 2016 03:18PM
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Image Gallery

 

 hydro valves           hydrovac connected to valves

replacing the valve on Mini.

Starting to pump up system, after de-pressurise and vacuum.

 

 

 

 

Pat   [email protected]

  //www.facebook.com/classicminisofarizona?ref=tn_tnmn

                            

 

 Posted: Feb 3, 2016 02:41PM
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Here is a better pic.

 Posted: Feb 3, 2016 02:38PM
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OK,  Here is my Rube Goldberg contraption to pump the hydo fluid.  Still waiting for my shrader valves to arrive tomorrow.  Next I will hook up my pipes and lines and gauge.  Thanks to everyone who has chimed in here.  I do already have a 2 psi check valve for brake lines.  I'm thinking that is not high enough.  Thoughts?

Gaining some confidence in Wisconsin.

 Posted: Feb 2, 2016 08:07PM
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I was able to purchase that special adaptor shown earlier that connects to the schrader valve from an aviation site; I believe it was skygeek.com. Not at home, so don't have access to my receit. Randy

 Posted: Feb 2, 2016 06:57PM
mur
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That is a valve cap for another application. I am sitting here with a pair of connectors from Churchill hydrolastic robots, and they are, as people have been saying, much smaller, 0.29+" or so.

 Posted: Feb 2, 2016 06:46PM
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Here is my shrader valve cap.  The actual valve is stuck on the hyro pipe now and will have to be removed with vise grips.  As I indicated before, I have new ones due to arrive this week.  Anyway, the inside diameter is .378.  The outside diamter is .430.  The grooves of the threads account for the difference.  I built my pump frame today and installed a 81-86 Ford master cylinder for cheap.  I blocked off one end for the front wheels and will use the rear wheel side.  Now to get all of the fittings and my gauge hooked up.  I still need to weld up the pump arm to some sort of pivot.

 Posted: Feb 2, 2016 05:31PM
jeg
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Even easier than trying to drag an image into the green box, just click the box and 'browse' to where your picture is stored on your computer. 

 

Click on the picture you want to upload and it'll load itself into your message post.

The peasants are revolting...          

"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance

 Posted: Feb 2, 2016 03:05PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by velopackrat

Bingo.  You've got something different on there.  I just measured a Schrader fitting at about .300" o.d., the threaded part.  But you've got a couple of them coming, so good thing.

Velopackrat x 2 - all of mine are the same as a car tire schrader - somone must have changed yours out for something else. If you can take a picture then to load it just drag it to the big green button on the top left and drop it as I show in the picture.

Im interested to see what you haveSmile

some new cars, 99 disco II, 88 jag xj40, 76 cadilac de ville 500c.i. (8.2l), 74 450sl, 69 lotus 7, 61 countryman (restoration)

the best view is always from the point of no return

 Posted: Feb 2, 2016 01:23PM
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Bingo.  You've got something different on there.  I just measured a Schrader fitting at about .300" o.d., the threaded part.  But you've got a couple of them coming, so good thing.

On your new pump your going to build, notice in the pic of mine that between the master cylinder and the outlet, you'll see an inline ball check valve.  It's brass and a couple inches tall.  I found mine on ebay for about $10.  Without one, you would pump fluid in but it would go right back out on the backstroke!

 Posted: Feb 2, 2016 01:17PM
 Edited:  Feb 2, 2016 01:22PM
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I use a Mini clutch slave cylinder mounted on a Fiat 124 pedal box with a 3' pipe handle.
It uses 2x Mini front brake hoses, with a bit of pipe and a flare nipple in the middle (so I can spin the hose onto the hydro connector).
The connector was made by machining a brass valve cap and then soft soldering it into a brass fitting. I don't use fancy air chucks or anything. I bleed the hose, screw it on (use valve cap rubber washer to seal) and tighten the flare nipple. Then pump away.
No vacuum feature, I pump it up to near full height then blow down the system hard by pushing the valve stem in. Repeat if needed to get all air out. Pic shows it with my hydro bag test rig. I've used this pump for 25 years.

 



When fitting front bags that have been drained, I top them up (slowly) through the hose until full, then connect.

BTW the schrader valves inside are just tire ones, I get them from my local tire shop. Long or short, either type works fine.

Kevin G

1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.

 Posted: Feb 2, 2016 06:39AM
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The shrader valve on the hydro system is not the same size as a car tire.  It is different.  It is .43" outer diameter.  It appears to fit only 1/4" flared threads which look like they are course threaded.  If I had a part number or thread count I could order something to fit online.  I bought two used Min hydro inlet shrader valves on Ebay a few days ago.  I should have them by Friday and install them.  I'm also going to blow the line out with air to make sure there is no obstruction. 

 

I did indeed pump the two different grease guns up before hand and then coupled them to the hydro system.  Now I'm going to build the brake master cylinder pump devise.  I will let everyone know what happens.

Still trying in Wisconsin..............

 Posted: Feb 2, 2016 01:05AM
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AU

The Schrader valve on the hydro is the same size thread as the one on a car tire.
Take a valve cap off a tire and screw it onto the schrader valve you are trying to fit the grease gun to. 
Does it fit? Yes or No.

When you fit the grase gun/master cylinder pump do you bleed the hose before you start pumping?
If you don't get all the air out of the hose it just won't pump. It will just squish the air a bit on the downstroke and release it on the up stroke.

 Posted: Feb 1, 2016 06:52PM
jeg
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I'm wondering if the Schrader valve core isn't jammed - like a tire or bicycle valvestem core, perhaps it can be removed and replaced?

The peasants are revolting...          

"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance

 Posted: Feb 1, 2016 06:16PM
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Randy,

Sorry this has become such a beating, with us only watching from the fence.  I've been in similar fixes so I know your pain.  However, Gurunutkins is right, something is amiss.  We're all missing something.

If the grease gun isn't forcing any fluid past the male Schrader fitting, then we must start right there.  While I support you on constructing a better pump and fitting, it still doesn't explain why the fluid isn't going into the line.  For the sake of understanding, what if you affixed an empty balloon or similar to the end of your grease gun pump and secured it with a rubber band.  Would the pumping fill the balloon?

Hang in there!

cw

 

 Posted: Feb 1, 2016 05:05PM
 Edited:  Feb 2, 2016 09:58AM
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Thanks for the encouragment.  I'm just too stubborn and dumb to know when to quit.  I will try to take pics and post.  I do not know how to post pics here.  I'm committed to the brake master cylinder setup.  News tomorrow at 10:00. 

 Posted: Feb 1, 2016 04:46PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogscarf

Just tried again for the fourteenth time.  No pressure after 500-600 pumps and no fluid transfer.  I found the threads that fit from the hardware store.  It is a 1/4" flare fitting. 

Can you post a picture of the end of your schrader valve - something does not sound right

some new cars, 99 disco II, 88 jag xj40, 76 cadilac de ville 500c.i. (8.2l), 74 450sl, 69 lotus 7, 61 countryman (restoration)

the best view is always from the point of no return

 Posted: Feb 1, 2016 04:41PM
 Edited:  Feb 1, 2016 04:48PM
jeg
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I can't offer much assistance because I've never worked on a Hydrolastic system, but I once had use for a special fitting that resembled a schrader valve fitting.  I eventually found an adapter fitting that fit my application at a welding supply store. 

Is there a chance that at some point in time someone changed the fittings on the car to something 'unique'? 

 

Keep at it, Randy - We're rootin' for you! 

 

 

The peasants are revolting...          

"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance

 Posted: Feb 1, 2016 04:00PM
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Another trip to the hardware store a couple hours ago.  More fittings.  Pumping,....Still no pressure.  I'm going the brake master cylinder route now.  The grease guns are not working for me.  I ordered a $23 master cylinder from O'Rieley this evening.  I will start constructing the assembly tomorrow.  Time to hunt down some box tubing and get out the wire welder.

 Posted: Feb 1, 2016 02:57PM
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I don't know what fittings that you are using but have you tried transfering fluid into the lines with the grease gun but without the schrader valve in place to at least get some fluid in the system.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

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