Gauges? we don need no stinking gauges. Pump the car up. If it sags on one side, put that one more. If it's too low, pump em both. If it's too high, take some out.

Don't over think it. It's a commuter car from the 60's. And it won races.

Many thanks to all that replied.  I am in NE Wisconsin.  I have a grease gun from Harbor Freight.  It only loads at the front.  I went to the Austin America website where it shows how to build the gun.  I have all lf the fittings except the gauge which will be delivered tomorrow.  I will try it without evacuation.  Most of the lines are still full, there was a leak up by the buldhead at the highest point in the system.  If I had a torch and could braze I would put a shrader air valve on the rear of the gun to pressurize the system for easier loading.  Maybe JB Weld would work, but 220psi is a lot of pressure.

Randy

1968 Morris Cooper S

 

I have replaced a few bags in the last year. I only use a grease gun. I found that if you minimize or eliminate leaks in the connection of the gun you will speed up the process greatly. I used to use a fitting until I realized a clamped hose from the gun to the car was the best. The positive pressure the gun created forced the schrader valve open and pressurized the car easily. Yes, you MUST have the car off the ground. It's MUCH easier to take a little out than it is to check repeatedly. Start up a little high and drive it so everything settles in.

The bags I replaced (always the right rear) made my evacuation and filling quick as it was right at the valve. I use power steering clamps. They are FAR better and stronger than hose clamps.

If I can do it, anyone can.

When using the grease gun method i have found it easier to do with the wheels off the ground and the car on jack stands with the rear end higher, i fill it as much as i can then drop the front first putting weight on the front wheels and letting any trapped air (if any) and extra fluid out of the schrader valve. The reason for having the rear end higher is to hopefully let any trapped air rise to the highest point which should be the valve on the rear sub frame. Probably not the best method but it has worked for me.

My two cents:

Be patient with the grease gun because it will take forever to build pressure.  Reason is, the bore and stroke of the grease gun is what, a thimble full?  It takes many thimbles to fill the volume of the lines plus two displacers.

But it will get there!

Where are you located?  Could not tell by your profile. A lot of folks have pumps, including the factory BMC pumps that may be able to help out.  I'm in Northern California and have a pump you are welcome to use.

 

Pump it up and deflate a few times. You don't have to evaculate. But you would need it on its wheels. The vacuum side of the original Chrurchill pump was so dealers could do it in one go to save money.

There are a few forum posts here about how to do it, if you use the search feature.

You can also get some good info at the Austin America website //www.austinamericausa.com/ and instructions on building the grease gun pump.

Fellow Minioids,  I am about to try to pressurize the hydolastic system on my 1968 Morris Cooper S.  It lost pressure in the left side during restoration and now that I have fixed the leak I am ready to pressurize it.  I will have the Mini jacked up with wheels suspended.   I realize that I will have to evacuate any remaining air out first, which I doubt is much.  I'm thinking about trying a bicycle pump to apply a negative pressure.  As for the pressurizing with 50/50 mix of anitfreeze and water I have a large grease gun that I am going to apply the correct end fittings to as well as a compatible gauge.  Anything else that I should be aware of or try?  Thanks!

 

Randy

1968 Morris Cooper S