Molasses & old Proportioning Valve
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Feb 12, 2016 09:25PM | driftz | |
Feb 12, 2016 07:52PM | Little Squirt | |
Feb 12, 2016 06:58PM | driftz | |
Feb 12, 2016 05:28PM | Hunter2 | |
Feb 12, 2016 10:33AM | Little Squirt | Edited: Feb 12, 2016 10:34AM |
Feb 12, 2016 09:28AM | swindrum | Edited: Feb 15, 2016 04:33PM |
Feb 11, 2016 04:39PM | nkerr | |
Feb 11, 2016 11:23AM | tmsmith | |
Feb 11, 2016 10:21AM | Hunter2 | Edited: Feb 11, 2016 10:24AM |
Feb 11, 2016 06:19AM | Dan Moffet | |
Feb 10, 2016 04:57PM | driftz | |
Feb 7, 2016 02:24PM | Hunter2 | |
Feb 4, 2016 02:39PM | Hunter2 | |
Feb 3, 2016 01:44PM | Hunter2 | |
Feb 3, 2016 12:11PM | jedduh01 | |
Feb 3, 2016 10:21AM | malsal | |
Feb 3, 2016 10:15AM | Hunter2 | |
Feb 3, 2016 09:53AM | Dan Moffet | |
Feb 3, 2016 09:31AM | swindrum | |
Feb 3, 2016 05:36AM | jedduh01 |
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1971 Cooper S MKIII
1976 Mini 1000
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The copper crushes to provide a perfect seal. It may be that it was tightened down originally against some cast imperfections.
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I had one of these just the other day that was frozen, My breaker bar and spaghetti arms weren't enough to get it apart. (Truth be told, the swivel on the vice was overwhelmed and it would turn, despite my efforts to lock it...)
I broke out the impact wrench and presto, she came apart in a jiffy.
Sean Windrum
1996 MGF VVC
1970 1275 GT Racer
66 Austin Countryman
63 997 Cooper (Under Construction)
63 MG 1100
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Norm
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Is the older valve similar on the inside? I replaced ours, but was curious if a molasses soak would let me get it apart, clean and reassemble?
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driftz,
There is a copper washer between the main body and the valve assembly...you should be able to free the assembly with torque. Put the assembly securely in a vise, apply a good penetrant to the exterior and, after letting the penetrant work overnight, use a breaker bar & socket to release the "welded" valve assembly. I keep a piece of heavy stainless pipe to slip over my breaker bar if a little more force is needed, but I doubt you would need that.
My assembly was siezed - ball not loose in body, shuttle stuck. Patience & good cleanup restored it to service.
DO NOT USE TORCH
Rick
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Thanks for posting. I had my brake system apart replacing a line and decided to see about rebuilding/servicing my valve. The nut was pretty much welded onto the valve and I could not get it apart. I could however hear/feel the ball moving around and blow air through the valve so I figured it was fine.
I wasn't aware there was the little plastic shuttle (thought it was just a metal ball that pressed against the fluid exit hole). If the ball was free to move but I wasn't able to verify the shuttle, is there anyway of knowing if the valve is functioning properly? Should I pull it off again and bring out the torch to remove the nuts? thanks
Plastic + torch = new valve.
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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Thanks for posting. I had my brake system apart replacing a line and decided to see about rebuilding/servicing my valve. The nut was pretty much welded onto the valve and I could not get it apart. I could however hear/feel the ball moving around and blow air through the valve so I figured it was fine.
I wasn't aware there was the little plastic shuttle (thought it was just a metal ball that pressed against the fluid exit hole). If the ball was free to move but I wasn't able to verify the shuttle, is there anyway of knowing if the valve is functioning properly? Should I pull it off again and bring out the torch to remove the nuts? thanks
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DONE - removed valve assembly from molasses/water bath and rinsed thoroughly. Shuttle valve is completely free. Once the bits were dry, hit with Brake Clean and let dry.
Cleaned up faces of copper washer on wet/dry paper, lightly reasembled & double bagged for parts bin.
Camera picls up all the light reflections off the ball, which makes the 'pitting' look far worse than it actually is...so no worries.
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UPDATE...as above the shuttle valve was not moving.
I put assembly in boiling water for 5 minutes or so, then hit it with brake clean. Shuttle popped loose...appears completely free to move. Blew assembly with some compressed air...a few squirts and dried it out getting only a few very little slivers of rust.
Popped assembly back into the molasses bath and pulled out the main body. It has cleaned up well.
Look to be almost done with the restore attempt. Remember this proportioning valve is 40 odd years old.
Will use new one from MM and have spare on the shelf!
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Good add-ons...
Meanwhile, the brake proportioning valve chamber & ball are clean...minor pitting on the ball (now the rust has been eaten off).
Can get air through the valve but no valve movement, so more rinsing, soaking. Will update.
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ALERT!!! Alert - Danger to manifold.!!!
Dont worry fellas! New waterpump on table Will be installed.
Is a used temp sensor pluging the hole in the head.
= Sligthly concerned with head gasket + mixture touching that - if it might cause issues or not - but a head gasket is a 2 hour job!
Basically - Trying this - and not have to fully dissassemble the engine - it runs to well not to try it other than that it just pumps mudwater. After enough research - becasue the internet said so - molasses can be the gentilest - then Vinegar - the people are actually also using CLR! Very common rust abatement tricks.
Will follow with full flush and soda flush to nutralize the acids - Fillerup with antifreeze 50/50 and go!
Will report back - Either way - mudwater wasnt good.
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EATS ALUMINUM !!!! I guess Jedduh needs to take a look at that water pump before he runs it then.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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ONE PROBLEM (among several)...molasses eats aluminum.
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So, that got me thinking, would that work on an engine in the car? Run it a couple times a day for a week or so, drain, flush and fill. You would know your insides are all spic and span!
YOU try it... and report back!
I'm guessing the 'drain and flush' part would be tedious and repetetive since you wouldn't be able to turn the block over to fully drain it.
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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So, that got me thinking, would that work on an engine in the car? Run it a couple times a day for a week or so, drain, flush and fill. You would know your insides are all spic and span!
Sean Windrum
1996 MGF VVC
1970 1275 GT Racer
66 Austin Countryman
63 997 Cooper (Under Construction)
63 MG 1100
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Found 32 Messages