Last block I did which had been stored outside and had sheets of rust inside, I stood on end on the floor with the head on and welch (freeze) plugs in. I filled it to top of water pump hole with 1/3 molasses mix. Stirred it daily with a pushrod. Washed it out with water and refilled each week for 3 weeks. It came up spotless inside.

piece of art

My engine build partner put his std. bore 1275 block in a tub with molasses/water mix...engine, power unit have since been fully assembled.

NOTE - must remove all dirt, grease, oil etc. before placing in bath

The thing I like about molasses is that it is not "line of sight" like electrolysis can be. If molasses can get in the nooks and crannies, it will de-rust the part.

Also, set and forget is nice, Electrolysis has power and electrodes and hydrogen gas...

although I m an electrolysis guy(works for me) i admire your work Rick

Go for it!  No harm will be done in unleashing Water/Molasses Mix.  Will eat up the rust.

Move in tub occasionally...rinse off to inspect.  Put back in.  Easy peasy.

Cost me $140 to have the machine shop crack test and hot tank block & head.  Took the head back for a 2nd go because rust was evident.

Then put the head in Water/Molasses bath.  Molasses $7.99 a gallon...water essentially free.

This head now built with unleaded exhaust seats, new guides, valves, springs will go on the 1293 build.

Ive got an Engine - Runs Great = Looks great on the outside -Except for the water / Antifreeze in the block

Have flushed multiple times. After running very few mile / hours the rust / mudwater Returns.

Currently the engine is out on the table  and DRY =  the same inside of the water passages is Dry Rusty powder comes off on your finger 

Would i be crazy thinking of running a Molases Mix thru the water passage ways - Filling it up- Letting it sit .  Flushing again to clenan out the nasty rusty stuff?

How else could i clean the waterways of this engine?

whenever I have used molasses Rick, I have always used 9 to 1 and left for at least a week or 2. You dont find the 3 to 1 a bit strong?

I like the speed but have been wary of concentrating the molasses up too much

No pitting...took a quick look this am and the molasses seems to be doing its work...more in another day or two.

Will remove and rinse tonight then put back in.

 

Rick, was the ball pitted?  If so, even when de-rusted will it be OK to use?

I'm just wondering...if it is a Canadian model Mini, should we use Genuine Maple Syrup instead ?

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Bought 2 NOS Brake Proportioning Valves from our host...so, can experiment with restoration of an old one.

For clarity, I know nothing about the history of the valve except that it may have come from one of the Mini parts cars that donated items to our first Mini build some 25 years ago.

Opened the valve up after sand blasting (with fluid entries plugged).  Ball was 'welded' to the base and it took a bit of effort to dislodge it...old brake gunk, rust don't know, but since I have some extra molasses but no brake clean at the moment, molasses and water it would be.

Water/molasses 2 cups water, 2/3 cup molasses, mix is 3-1. Bits into the fluid 1/2 hour ago.

Will post results in a few days.

(we used the same mix to de-rust the head on my 1293 build and the block of the standard 1275 build going together side by side.)