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 Posted: Feb 10, 2016 03:07PM
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Ordered.....//www.ebay.com/itm/AUSTIN-MG-METRO-1980-1990-PAIR-OF-ROVER-SOLID-FRONT-BRAKE-DISCS-UNIPART-GBD364-/281923706629?hash=item41a3f65f05:g:11oAAOSwo0JWPeRD

 Jason

 Posted: Feb 8, 2016 03:11PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meetthespeakers

That's what I was gonna say, not having part GBD364 might be your problemo.

You always have the answer...But you never have the part!

 

Thanks again John

 Jason

 Posted: Feb 8, 2016 02:56PM
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US

That's what I was gonna say, not having part GBD364 might be your problemo.

 Posted: Feb 8, 2016 02:46PM
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Looking for a set of GBD364, Metro Discs (Rotors). Anyone got some laying around???

 

 Jason

 Posted: Feb 7, 2016 06:43AM
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So yesterday I put on the old rotors to the drive flange and fastened on to the wheel hubs. And did the same with the new rotors. I took measurements with calipers from where the calipers bolts onto the wheel hub and to the back of the rotor. Old rotors go on fine and calipers all line up perfectly, the wheel bearings are solid on both new and old. New rotors are off by @.160"......I sent out emails to our sponsor here and other parts peeps with my dimensions of my old rotors to see if they have them. The new rotor I bought is dimensionally definity not the same. They said it was a premium rotor, not so far it ain't.

Thanks for the input Spank

 

 Jason

 Posted: Feb 6, 2016 07:08PM
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Bolt your old rotors on and see what your spacing is, no? That should tell you if you did something with the bearings.

 

 Posted: Feb 6, 2016 07:48AM
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I do see the differences in the rotor dimensions. I bought the 21A2612MS rotor....If I do have the wrong rotor, which one then? Or is it the drive flange? Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh   so confused......

 Jason

 Posted: Feb 6, 2016 06:24AM
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Spank & All.....I did the one side first, pressed in the inner races of the bearings (Totally seated), re-installed the entire wheel hub with new Timken bearings, and even torqued up the castle nut. Everything was solid, spinning great.....Thats when things went south. Before I started the other side, I wanted to make sure the caliper would go on as designed. Ugggg, thats when I noticed I had problems. It does not look like the rotor is close enough to the wheel hub main body. I'm 99% sure it's not the bearings, but threw it out there just as a possibility. After searcching the web further, I found that there is a drive flange just for the 4 pot calipers and a vented rotor (NAM6450F) "These flanges must be fitted when using vented disks. Fits all vented disk type derivatives such as ERA and Metro Turbos"......This longer length drive flange is what I have. If I had the shorter drive flange (21A2695) this may work (moves the rotor closer to the wheel hub main body). Just a thought, not sure if I am right. So now, I think my optins are this......Does anyone have a set of specers for a set of 4 pot calipers they have laying around in a corner and don't need or a drive flange (21A2695) that I can test with. If someone has this flange, could you take some precise measurements and post. I might be able to decipher from those numbers before I just start ordering parts and spending a crap load of money? Could I mill off the difference in depth from a drive flange I have to the one I actaully need. Once again this is pure speculation, but from what I have seen on the web, this is what is leaning me in this direction.

 

 Jason

 Posted: Feb 5, 2016 09:07PM
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the only way the wheel bearing install would impact the rotor spacing is if you did not install them properly and the outer bearings race is possibly not seated or the bearing is not sitting in the race for some odd reason-- maybe too many spacers? But if that were the case, then the wheelbearings would be loose or there'd be other obvious signs of improper wheel bearing install, like it would play after the assembly were torqued up.

The drive flange inner face presses up against the outer face of the outer wheelbearing. When you tighten it all down to the 180-200 ft lbs (or more) it all smooshes together, the rotor should then be in position to accept the caliper to be bolted directly up to the hub and the disc should be centered reasonably within the caliper.

With the smaller diameter rotor, it sounds like potentially you have an MG1100, Austin America or MG Midget rotor by accident?? They measure 8.2" and Mini ones can be used but they need to be turned down in diameter.

What's up with your old setup? CAn you compare the rotors side by side (mounting face to rotor center)?

 

 Posted: Feb 5, 2016 07:54PM
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Do I have a Metro vented disc type drive flange (NAM6450F), and I am trying to use a basic rotor? Need to change to a basic drive flange (21A2695)? 

 Jason

 Posted: Feb 5, 2016 06:07PM
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I have 4 pot calipers with solid rotors (No center piece on calipers to except vented rotor) on my 84' Mayfair. I purchased new rotors 21A2612MS and went to install them today. Compared to the rotors I took off, they are about.200 inch shorter in depth and the calipers will not fit. I also installed new GHK1140 Timken bearings in the wheel hubs, could this of changed my dimensions not allowing the rotor/drive flange to fit correctly? What am I missing? Did I get a hodge podge of parts when I bought this car?

 

 

 Jason