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 Posted: May 3, 2016 07:23AM
 Edited:  May 3, 2016 07:25AM
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Get a copy of this: //www.manualslib.com/manual/818788/Haynes-Mini.html That's the soft copy and it's missing few chapters... our host has the hard copy... which I recommend: //www.minimania.com/part/646/Haynes-1969-2001-Mini--Mini-Cooper-Workshop-Manual Won't be 100% correct for every Mini (e.g. mine's a '72 Canada spec, so there may be some subtle differences) but it will shed light on some things you're chasing down, especially the suspension...

 Posted: Apr 28, 2016 06:10AM
jeg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Moffet
Quote:
Originally Posted by easteregg
THANK YOU ALL!

These are great replys. The best have a tenor of "relax".
Yeah, absolutely. I have learned (the hard way) that a Mini seems to get more stubborn as I get more frustrated and impatient.
Funny how mine seems to get more stubborn (and smaller) as I get older, 'less athletic', and as my garage shrinks.  

Where'd all that space go?

The peasants are revolting...          

"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance

 Posted: Apr 28, 2016 03:58AM
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CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by easteregg
THANK YOU ALL!

These are great replys. The best have a tenor of "relax".
Yeah, absolutely. I have learned (the hard way) that a Mini seems to get more stubborn as I get more frustrated and impatient.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Apr 26, 2016 05:25AM
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THANK YOU ALL!

These are great replys. The best have a tenor of "relax". I think I had too short a time frame in mind when I set out to fix this thing. I need to extend that a bit. 

My next steps are going to be: order the shocks, springs, knuckles, radiator, and have at it. The 1/4" frame fix was wrong...it's 1/8", and even that may be too thick, you're right. I will lift it up and take a look. 

I appreciate all the advice!

 Posted: Apr 22, 2016 03:01AM
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CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by easteregg
Ok...thats a bit dramatic.

I'm writing to you while covered in POR15...

86' Chelsea...MK I have no idea because I'm uneducated (help?)

I'm overwhelmed, tired, regretful, and asking for mercy. In my areas of expertise, I generally do a good job of ushering along those that don't know what they don't know...so I'm asking for the same helpful hand. 

Here goes:
Car needed floors and rocker panels - check! Fabricated and welded this week. Painted with POR, will seal everything and undercoat tomorrow.

Rear subframe has a hole in it where the channel is - Is this normal? I'm welding 1/4" Steel to it tomorrow. - Bad idea? (don't care what you say, i'm doing it...)

Pulled the shocks off - "Why? you ask? Because the car sags, so I have to start going into that arena anyway. Next will be the knuckles. After that would be the cones...I can't even conceptualize how to access them, but whatever. 

Can I buy shocks from the parts store...ya know...just regular old shocks?

I cut through the fuel line with a grind wheel - this was awesome. to be fixed.

Leaking radiator - No idea where...but it has a small leak.

New tires - getting mounted and balanced tomorrow - 12" wheels - Summits (judge me, go ahead)

Fan belt - Definitely needs a new one. I can probably do it, but can I just go to the parts store and get one or does it have to be a fancy dancy 12 day shipping one?


This seems like a good start. All-in-all, the car will be fun, I guess. It looks cool, the motor runs well, and I'm learning a heck of lot (for starters, don't buy anything with that much rust). 

I'm sorry to be that guy...


OK.  Some real responses to some of your questions.

1. Shocks and sagging suspension.
Shock absorbers (aka dampers) do NOT support the weight of a car (unless they are seized). Springs do, but they are bouncy. The first role shocks do is "dampen" the bounciness of springs. The second is to "absorb" the shock the suspension and car get when you hit a sharp bump: the spring gets compressed suddenly by the impact, but the shock slows the rate of compression of the spring, and then the immediate rebound.
A Mini suspension sags because of one or both of the following: with age, the rubber springs - or cones as they are known -  gradually stiffen and settle. Sometimes one or more might collapse more suddenly. It is basically the same issue as on steel-sprung cars when the steel springs get weaker with age and corrosion. The other point of sag on a Mini is the knuckle joint - a steel ball sitting in a nylon cup. They work fine, but eventually dry out and the nylon cup wears away. Because of the geometry of the suspension components, a small amount of wear is magnified.
You don't need fancy gas-filled shocks for a standard Mini. The standard ones are fine for a road car. You need to get the right configuration (end connections), the right open length and closed length and the right damping rate for compression and rebound (they typically are different!).

2. Your 12" Summit tires... you did get the right aspect ratio, I hope. Otherwise they will rub.

3. I'm with those against 1/4" plate on the subframe. Without understanding the engineering that went into the subframe, adding very stiff steel (if you did manage to weld it successfully) to stamped lighter-gauge steel may cause local stress points resulting in metal fatigue and failure. You may also seal up areas that are supposed to drain or block necessary space needed for assembly and disassembly, as has been noted. (On modern truck frames you will see stamped notices NOT to weld or drill the frame.)

4. Don't pay much attention to "Tonipet" - his reply shows he didn't even understand some of what you posted.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Apr 21, 2016 02:45PM
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ah yes.....Mk...I don't know.  Now i get it.  DUH

when she said "its so small" she meant the car right?

 Posted: Apr 21, 2016 09:58AM
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CA
Tonipet = Triggerboy = .... Robster 

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Apr 21, 2016 09:53AM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonipet
ADVICE: First you have to asses yourself, 
Yes, yes you do. It's back...

 Posted: Apr 21, 2016 09:42AM
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Ok...thats a bit dramatic.

I'm writing to you while covered in POR15...

86' Chelsea...MK I have no idea because I'm uneducated (help?)

I'm overwhelmed, tired, regretful, and asking for mercy. In my areas of expertise, I generally do a good job of ushering along those that don't know what they don't know...so I'm asking for the same helpful hand.

Here goes: Car needed floors and rocker panels - check! Fabricated and welded this week. Painted with POR, will seal everything and undercoat tomorrow.

ADVICE: First you have to asses yourself, do you want to be a PURIST or a REST-MOD-er? a Purist keeps his mini stock in every aspect....A restomod-er is a bit open minded, he incorporates modern innovations to his mini to fit into this modern automobile world.

Rear subframe has a hole in it where the channel is - Is this normal? I'm welding 1/4" Steel to it tomorrow. - Bad idea? (don't care what you say, i'm doing it...)

Advice:If it has a clean regular shaped hole,yes it's normal,,,but if the Hole looks like a remnant of a rust, then go ahead and patch it. no arguement with that.

Pulled the shocks off - "Why? you ask? Because the car sags, so I have to start going into that arena anyway. Next will be the knuckles. After that would be the cones...I can't even conceptualize how to access them, but whatever.

Advice: Determine how much money you want to put on your mini, and compare it if you buy an already fixed mini with no problems., and see if you end up shelling more $$$$, then just get a mint mini. But our host carries complete parts for the mini,for sure they have the parts you needed.

Can I buy shocks from the parts store...ya know...just regular old shocks? answer: get the adjustable gas filled dampers from our host(btw,in the modern world it's called dampers not shock absorbers)

I cut through the fuel line with a grind wheel - this was awesome. to be fixed. answer/advice: grinding wheel can produce a spark, and when you use this on a fuel line...omg!, pls just use a tube cutter,it cuts straight and smooth...for you safety

Leaking radiator - No idea where...but it has a small leak.

answer: radiators are cheap to buy but so difficult to replace./ get the modern aluminum radiator,3 element. it costs more but worth it. classic minis overheats even with a good running radiator, how much more if the radiator leaks,,,it might start a fire.

New tires - getting mounted and balanced tomorrow - 12" wheels - Summits (judge me, go ahead)

Advice: Again, asses yourself, purist? or Restomod-er? because a purist only use 10 inch wheel on their minis to preserve it's originality. if they use 12inch wheel, it means betrayal.

Fan belt - Definitely needs a new one. I can probably do it, but can I just go to the parts store and get one or does it have to be a fancy dancy 12 day shipping one?

Answer: i won't trust fan belts bought from autozone or checkers or oreilly,,, i'd rather buy them from our host, specifically fitted for the classic mini and it's durability is par excellance.

This seems like a good start. All-in-all, the car will be fun, I guess. It looks cool, the motor runs well, and I'm learning a heck of lot (for starters, don't buy anything with that much rust).

Answer: A classic mini without rust and not leaking oil is boring, Rust reveals the history.....btw, you didnt mention about oil leaks...

I'm sorry to be that guy...

it's alright, i was like you when i first got bitten by the mini bug. positive effect: always happy to see people and hear people comments about my mini, i was always excited to drive around places ive never been to, as long as i drive my mini. I get a lot of praises from people around, which makes my day enjoyable.

Negative effect: it empties my wallet/ i spend more time with the mini than i spend time with wife./ to others, it might cause a divorce / driving the mini sometimes is better than having sex.(it can get worse than that ,trust me) i get middle finger from mustang, camaro and the V8 drivers if they're driving behind me(cuz i was too slow). they thought i'm sissy because i drive a slow and small car. (damn them) Our competition are NOT the classic VW beetles, NOT the classic Abarth, NOT the classic Fiat 500, not even the Peel p50....Our competition are the new Minis,, the new Minis and the classic minis have a very distinct rivalry.

But overall, classic mini is a fun car, if you are a wrencher, you're in !!! Congrats with your new toy...be safe out there....

----------------------------------ooo---------------------------

 Posted: Apr 21, 2016 08:50AM
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we love pics - load one up each of your issues and we can help.  welcome to the madness!

 Posted: Apr 21, 2016 08:15AM
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CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by marvalussbody
you have an '86 Mk I ?
I think he meant " I have no idea "

Your car would be a MkIV>  ( some may refer to your car as a MkV 1984 - 1990ish )

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Apr 21, 2016 07:39AM
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GB
I'm fearful that the big hole in the subframe about to be plated is where the spring goes...

 Posted: Apr 21, 2016 07:06AM
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CA
Get that rear subbie off the Mini (MK I-IV) & glass bead blasted so you can actually see the condition of the whole thing...patching may be a waste of effort or not...but as said, it is light, mild steel.  1/4" plate will not work.

Once off the Mini it can be prepared with epoxy primer or the POR stuff we Canadians keep hearing about...and be rebuilt with new knuckles, rubber springs, probably rear brake hoses, maybe refreshed trailing arms....

I should just shut up!

 Posted: Apr 21, 2016 06:57AM
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you have an '86 Mk I ?

when she said "its so small" she meant the car right?

 Posted: Apr 20, 2016 05:43PM
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1/4 plate on the rear subframe? good luck with that unless your a magic welder! you'll burn holes in the frame before you get the plate to melt into the weld pool.

To do the rear knuckles and cones is straight forward with no tools needed but the fronts are a different kettle of fish, if you don't want to remove the top arms you will need a spring compressor to get them out. To put new ones in you will need a compressor which you can rent (I believe) or buy from our host.

Remove your old belt and take to auto parts store they can match it.

Shocks from auto parts store? no idea, take one with you maybe they can match it for size but will the internal valving be correct? I doubt it.

Radiator is simple take to radiator shop have test it and recore if required although new ones are not that expensive compared to a repair.

And your not that guy!! to me you sound just like a normal customer............................

Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch

 Posted: Apr 20, 2016 04:59PM
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WOW, take a breath.. One thing at a time. England wasn't built in a day. your mine wont be rebuilt in a week either!! All is well it will all come together. Keep your chin up.  it will work out. NO JUDGE HERE!!! Good Luck Scott

 Posted: Apr 20, 2016 04:23PM
 Edited:  Apr 20, 2016 04:26PM
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Ok...thats a bit dramatic.

I'm writing to you while covered in POR15...

86' Chelsea...MK I have no idea because I'm uneducated (help?)

I'm overwhelmed, tired, regretful, and asking for mercy. In my areas of expertise, I generally do a good job of ushering along those that don't know what they don't know...so I'm asking for the same helpful hand. 

Here goes:
Car needed floors and rocker panels - check! Fabricated and welded this week. Painted with POR, will seal everything and undercoat tomorrow.

Rear subframe has a hole in it where the channel is - Is this normal? I'm welding 1/4" Steel to it tomorrow. - Bad idea? (don't care what you say, i'm doing it...)

Pulled the shocks off - "Why? you ask? Because the car sags, so I have to start going into that arena anyway. Next will be the knuckles. After that would be the cones...I can't even conceptualize how to access them, but whatever. 

Can I buy shocks from the parts store...ya know...just regular old shocks?

I cut through the fuel line with a grind wheel - this was awesome. to be fixed.

Leaking radiator - No idea where...but it has a small leak.

New tires - getting mounted and balanced tomorrow - 12" wheels - Summits (judge me, go ahead)

Fan belt - Definitely needs a new one. I can probably do it, but can I just go to the parts store and get one or does it have to be a fancy dancy 12 day shipping one?


This seems like a good start. All-in-all, the car will be fun, I guess. It looks cool, the motor runs well, and I'm learning a heck of lot (for starters, don't buy anything with that much rust). 

I'm sorry to be that guy...