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Posted:
May 4, 2016
08:14AM
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There was no up and down play. I opened the butterfly and wiggled up and down and got nothing.
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don't hope, check: they advised you to confirm the throttle shafts don't leak (a common wear point)
just because you found a leak at the gaskets doesn't mean that the throttle shafts are OK
it is an easy check while the engine is running (same test and symptom as the gasket check with aerosol)
While you've got the carb off to replace the leaking gaskets, if you've identified the throttle shaft also needs renewing it is easy to do then.
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I sprayed the area where the paper gaskets are sandwiched and the idle rises. Definitely leaky gaskets and when I unplug mystery box the idle raised a little too. I am hoping when I cut new gaskets the air leak will be gone and the idle stops hunting
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ok thanks
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Yes that is what Jed is referring to. Take the return spring off and check for up and down play (side to side is not an issue).
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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can you elaborate on worn shafts in the carb. you mean like the shaft that the butterfly rotates on?
Edited:
May 3, 2016
09:05AM
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Spray some carb cleaner around the Carb and manifold while running.
Listen / watch for the engine to rev up when spraying in any particular area = Your looking for air sucking by somewhere and when the carb cleaner hits it runs better on that fuel added.
Your idle symptoms could be Worn shafts on the carb sucking air by. Just a pretty easy check.
= Same - distrubutor vacc advance will not affect running - you can cap that vacc line and see how it idles removing that vacc advance diaphram from the system. Troubleshooting other areas. I would do the same thing for the AC Idle Bump valve you have pictured - Remove it - Cap the line - See how the engine runs (ac off).
I would also suspect worn points , Foule'd plugs, Low idle setting, worn cap and rotor. etc...
Goodluck
Listen / watch for the engine to rev up when spraying in any particular area = Your looking for air sucking by somewhere and when the carb cleaner hits it runs better on that fuel added.
Your idle symptoms could be Worn shafts on the carb sucking air by. Just a pretty easy check.
= Same - distrubutor vacc advance will not affect running - you can cap that vacc line and see how it idles removing that vacc advance diaphram from the system. Troubleshooting other areas. I would do the same thing for the AC Idle Bump valve you have pictured - Remove it - Cap the line - See how the engine runs (ac off).
I would also suspect worn points , Foule'd plugs, Low idle setting, worn cap and rotor. etc...
Goodluck
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I put ATF as I was informed on this board it is similar to dashpot oil. Thanks for the help. I appreciate it.
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That's a different carb. It is a HIF carb you have a HS4 carb.You may need to go through everything tune up wise including setting the valves and lastly after everything else is set up adjusting the carb. Make sure you have oil in the carb dashpot.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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I will post more pics when I get home. This one kinda looks like it is at the other port
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Ok. I will look for the specs for the Japanese mini. I misspoke. I didn't mean stabilize the idle. I meant raise it back up when off throttle. My car when first started dips low to the point it almost dies out. I will check the gap when I get home. Thanks!
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No it does not stabilize the idle. If you disconnect the vac advance while it is running the idle will drop and cause it to run a little rough. I don't know what pictures you are looking at but afaik the top port is definitely the correct port on a HS4 carb for the vac advance.You need to make sure the points are gapped correctly and the distributor is in good order then set the timing to spec for starters.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Total posts: 168
Last post: Sep 6, 2017 Member since:Aug 19, 2014
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That is what I thought the purpose of the advance was for was to stabilize the idle. My car is currently loping in idle. Runs and then almost cuts out. then picks up then almost cuts out.I figure I had the vacuum ports swapped and the advance was not working. Every picture I have seen shows the vacuum port on the right as the one for the advance. Not arguing just trying to provide as much info as possible.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ItalianJobber
I think my dizzy isn't advancing. Runs great above idle. Idle lopes though
Make sure your timing is correct at idle with the vacuum hose removed and check the maximum advance which is really more important than the idle setting. Another way to check if your vacuum advance is working is to remove the line with it at idle and see if the timing fluctuates.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ItalianJobber
OK. So does it matter which port I have the vacuum lines. There is one dead center an one off to the right. I thought one is before the butterfly and one is after
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Total posts: 168
Last post: Sep 6, 2017 Member since:Aug 19, 2014
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Cars in Garage: 0
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I think my dizzy isn't advancing. Runs great above idle. Idle lopes though
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OK. So does it matter which port I have the vacuum lines. There is one dead center an one off to the right. I thought one is before the butterfly and one is after
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ItalianJobber
So I just want to be clear on my vacuum lines. I am not sure if they are hooked up right. I have two attachments on the intake manifold. As shown in picture one is how it is hooked up now but I believe I have to switch them. In picture two what is this part? In picture 3 is the Mystery box. I have a vacuum line running from the intake to mystery box and one running from mystery box to the gold piece. I have checked Haynes and they don't have a vacuum diagram or anything. Also I was applying suction to the end of the distributor vacuum line and didn't hear any click from the dizzy. Does it make an audible sound when the advance moves? Thanks!
When sucking on the distributor vacuum hose with the distributor cap off the points base plate should move and if you put your tongue over the hose opening it should hold in that position if good.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Total posts: 168
Last post: Sep 6, 2017 Member since:Aug 19, 2014
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