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 SU needle guide

 Created by: Jamison70
Orig. Posting Date User Name Edit Date
May 23, 2016 08:20AM h_lankford  
May 22, 2016 02:50PM Jamison70  
May 22, 2016 02:25PM jeg Edited: May 22, 2016 02:26PM 
May 22, 2016 02:18PM DRMINI Edited: May 22, 2016 02:20PM 
May 22, 2016 02:12PM jeg Edited: May 22, 2016 02:19PM 
May 22, 2016 10:39AM Jamison70  
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 Posted: May 23, 2016 08:20AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamison70
 It has much better response at speed.  But it still gets bogged down when starting from a stop sign.
Thanks for all the responses.


that might not be the choice of the needle itself, but rather it is lifting too fast.

Try a thicker oil for the dashpot piston.

 Posted: May 22, 2016 02:50PM
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Jeg, you are good!  I think it is an AUD carb.  I'm very new to this as I just received my "Tuning the A-series engine" book this morning.  I haven't been able to figure out the exact number yet.
I took the carb apart, cleaned it and set the jet screw to 2 full turns from closed.  It seems to be running better already.  It has much better response at speed.  But it still gets bogged down when starting from a stop sign.
Thanks for all the responses.

James

 Posted: May 22, 2016 02:25PM
 Edited:  May 22, 2016 02:26PM
jeg
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Kevin,

Berlen Fuel Systems has a biased-to-fixed needle adapter sleeve (ABF 193) for the (large hole) suction chamber, just need to get the proper retaining screw to clamp the needle.  

Berlen wasn't the greatest help on this, though, so through buying an assortment, I found that the HS2/HS4 (AUC 2057) screw fits the HIF just fine, though it's a bit short on the body below the head.  

They also offer an AUD 4253 screw, 22mm long, for use with ABF193, although this screw needs the head to be reduced in height along the graduated marking and new screwdriver slot cut into it.

Yep, I've converted one of my HIF's to fixed needle.

If I recall correctly, Joe Curto also has a conversion kit available, and his includes the screw - in brass, no less.

The peasants are revolting...          

"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance

 Posted: May 22, 2016 02:18PM
 Edited:  May 22, 2016 02:20PM
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I hate bias needles, they wear themselves & the jet. Fixed needles don't do this, if jet is aligned on assembly.
I am talking HS2 4 & 6 carbs here, not the new fangled HIF ones..!

Kevin G

1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.

 Posted: May 22, 2016 02:12PM
 Edited:  May 22, 2016 02:19PM
jeg
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Because your needle isn't supposed to sit straight.  

Your needle, (commonly known as a 'Biased Needle' - as opposed to a 'Straight Needle') uses a spring, AUD3306, situated on the top of the 'top hat', which biases the needle either towards the throttle plate or away from the throttle plate - depending upon which needle guide your vehicle requires.

(A hint:  needle guide p/n JZX1039 suits our cars)

I'll go on - 

This biased-needle configuration eliminates the need for centering the jet.  Jet wear is slightly increased, for sure, but carb jets should be considered normal service items anyways, so should be checked/replaced every few years regardless.

The peasants are revolting...          

"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance

 Posted: May 22, 2016 10:39AM
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Can anyone tell me why the needle guide has a raised section on the top of it?  This seems to prevent the needle from sitting straight.

James