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 Posted: May 25, 2016 11:22AM
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US
And hoses.

 Posted: May 25, 2016 11:07AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easteregg
I ended up pulling the trigger and buying all new stuff. 

Italian: You're right. No reason to call you out. My bad. 

I appreciate the advice. What terrified me is that the petal was pushed very hard and the car slowwwllly came to a stop. I'm doing new pads, rotors, drums, shoes, springs. 

Should that do the trick?
Replace the rear wheel cylinders as well.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: May 25, 2016 11:02AM
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As long as the lines are good and clear should be all good. Mine was doing the same thing. Had a leaky wheel cylinder in the back

 Posted: May 25, 2016 10:13AM
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I ended up pulling the trigger and buying all new stuff. 

Italian: You're right. No reason to call you out. My bad. 

I appreciate the advice. What terrified me is that the petal was pushed very hard and the car slowwwllly came to a stop. I'm doing new pads, rotors, drums, shoes, springs. 

Should that do the trick?

 Posted: May 24, 2016 07:00AM
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turn your rotors and drums if you arent buying new stuff. scuff your pads and shoes to get rid of glazing. check inside the drums for brake fluid as you can limit effective braking if brake fluid is squirting on the drums. 

 Posted: May 24, 2016 06:57AM
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Usually 8.4" disc and drums work well as long as everything is adjusted and functioning correctly. You can add a servo to the system but it only decreases the amount of effort required it does not improve the braking more so the experience.
Make sure the rear wheel cylinders are free and working with no leaks and also make sure the shoes are installed correctly and adjusted. Also make sure the fluid flows through the four flexible hoses as they tend to collapse from the inside out.  The front caliper pistons need to bee free moving along with a decent set of new pads and the discs should be nice and smooth and straight. If the master cylinder is leaking look at the bottom of the brake pedal for brake fluid drips.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: May 24, 2016 06:50AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easteregg
I'm sure you're all getting sick of me by now, but hey, at least I'm not screaming in another threat about "I WILL MAKE FOR SELL YOU MINI OF THE BESTEST QUALITY SHIP RIGHT FROM PORT!"

Anyway. Brakes. 86" Chelsea. Disc up front, drum in the rear. Whats the standard setup? I drove the car once before putting it in the garage to restore it, and remember being terrified with the braking. part of this is probably my expectations built up from a driving life of power brakes. Whats my best first step?

Thanks
Well coming from the guy you just called out for no reason and help out a Novice such as yourself. You should probably clarify what "Terrifies" you about your brakes. Low pressure, pulsing pedal, strange noises, etc. If you clarify about that you may get some pertinent help. Just saying smart guy

 Posted: May 24, 2016 06:36AM
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I'm sure you're all getting sick of me by now, but hey, at least I'm not screaming in another threat about "I WILL MAKE FOR SELL YOU MINI OF THE BESTEST QUALITY SHIP RIGHT FROM PORT!"

Anyway. Brakes. 86" Chelsea. Disc up front, drum in the rear. Whats the standard setup? I drove the car once before putting it in the garage to restore it, and remember being terrified with the braking. part of this is probably my expectations built up from a driving life of power brakes. Whats my best first step?

Thanks