Just as an experiment.. why don't you just remove the over throw stop nuts and the lever return spring and see how things feel that way?

And I'd still be interested to see where the slave piston is in relation to the C clip with the pedal fully depressed..

Cheers, Ian

And a follow on - did the crowbar thing to the release lever per Mur and Ian.  I didn't feel any kind of "pop", but could feel the spring flex.

Pulled the return spring, and rechecked the stop bolt, it was a little looser than the 20mm, so closed that gap.

I didn't have a friend to depress the clutch pedal, so sinched the throwout nut to the width of a 1/8 drill bit from the wok.

Yay!!!  While it's not smooth, I was able to get in all 4 gears in my driveway with the engine running!!!  And, for the first time, moved a few feet front and back under its own power!

So, the gears are still a bit balky to get into - lever stop adjustment, throwout nut adjustment, or just take some breaking in?

Scott 

Small update today, the clutch arm is travelling 0.55" with a full depression, so the linkage, master and slave seem to (at first blush) be working as intended.

On to trying to unstick the clutch from the flywheel.  I'm optimistic - so much so, that I picked up a temp driving permit from DMV, which is good for 21 days!  Three weeks should be enough time, right?  

Scott

What he said - after 16 years this is very likely.

This does remind me of the clutch issues I had last year. It was the slave. As you mentioned the expected .55" of travel. The one I was dealing with would only travel .3" Changing it out fixed the problem.

Well, you may have wear issues and the travel your existing mechanism offers is not enough to disengage the clutch, and then you locked things down with the throw out stop nut and locknut. Many people deal with this problem by heating and bending the lever arm, fitting pushrods into the slave cylinder that can be adjusted, or by replacing the worn parts. 

If if you remove the throwout stop nut and locknut and physically push the lever all the way you will feel the diagphram spring throw over. If is disconnects the Trans from the engine, then you have linkage problems.

Do this with the engine off, as instructed above. There is no need to place undue stress on the thrust bearings  trying to sort out this issue.

I'm *guessing* that Mur is suggesting that you pull the clutch lever across manually and then see if the clutch is dragging.  If it doesn't show he same symptoms as before then maybe the hydraulics aren't working properly...... BYW you don't have to start the engine - just stick it in 4th, pull the lever towards the guard and see if there are any strange noises as you push the car forward a foot or so...

I would be doing a few other checks... First, back the throwout nuts right off and see if this helps. Second, pull the boot off the end of the slave and, while someone pushes the clutch pedal to the floor, make sure the slave piston is not running into the C clip at the outer end of the slave bore....

Aaand, while you're there, how far is the top of the clutch lever moving when you push the pedal down???  (from memory (ie you should check about 15mm is good).

Cheers, Ian

PS after 16 years I would not be surprised if you find the clutch plate is actually stuck to the flywheel.. but that's no big deal.

To prevent the clutch disc from sticking in cases of being stored why not do as they used to when leather clutches were the norm, hold the clutch pedal depressed with a piece of wood on the pedal to the column bracket? or wedged between Wok and lever.......OO that sounds like a pub name "The Wok and Lever"  Mind you who ever says to themselves "I think I'll park up the mini for 5 years...............

Don't worry mate...she'll be right. What part of Godzone are you living in? I Used to live in several places there.

BTW...this should help you...complete words to the song...//www.folksong.org.nz/shellbe/index.html

Mur - when you say "you will quickly determine if this is a linkage+adjustment problem, or something more difficult like a primary gear problem", what would I see when doing this that would show me one thing or another.

Scott

Mini4ever: You have destroyed this forum. You do not deserve beer. 

Regular People:

DO NOT spray anything into the flywheel enclosure, or consider any advice this person gives, either as mini4ever or any other alias he has used.

As for the issue at hand, confirm that the clutch has been disengaged. Remove the throw out stop lock nuts, use a long lever to move the clutch lever to disengage the clutch. With the engine OFF and the transmission in gear you will quickly determine if this is a linkage+adjustment problem, or something more difficult like a primary gear problem.

No need to do anything, just put the engine to idle about 10-15minutes,  the engine vibration will  slowly dislodge them apart. if it didn't work the first time, turn off engine, let it cool down and repeat the next morning. 

Let this serve as a lesson to people who leave their minis in the garage not being used, surely the clutch disc and flywheel will stick, now before you store your mini in  garage for a longer period of time, do this as part of winterizing your mini, first removethe starter,have someone step on the clutch pedal and hold, then squirt some WD40 directed to the flywheel, ensuring that there is a little film of WD40 in between the flywheel and the clutch disc. this will prevent water condensation,molds etc. from accumulating that causes the sticking. This is how i do it on all my toys, even the clutch god doesn't know this technique. and it works.

note: do not overspray the WD40 inside the flywheel, few sprays is enough.



now, do i deserve the beer?

Will check the engage then start thing tomorrow - if that's the case, what's the solution?  BFH?  Pray to the clutch gods?  Beer (either in me, or on the engine)?

Scott

We had a problem with an engine that had sat for a period of time, the clutch disk had stuck to the flywheel.

If you put it in gear, and depress the clutch, then hit the starter, does the car try to lurch forward as though in gear? That could mean a stuck disk.

Edit: 62 Cooper S beat me to it!

Sounds like the clutch disk is stuck to the flywheel. That happens a lot when a car sits, especially in a damp or humid climate. Happens to me all the time.

I don't feel so bad now, knowing that the mini made up of the three shells we towed are still awaiting their moment to rise on the platform to the lightening, to be given life (and perhaps terrorize a town?)!

Will check all you mentioned.  I put my faith in Murray, but makes sense to double check.  If all check out, next step would be the slave (I am going to measure the motion of the level, as I've read today that 0.55" of travel is expected, and something less than that means slave issues).

Scott

Sounds like the clutch is dragging which is either incorrect adjustment or more likely the parts I mentioned are worn which will limit clutch arm travel. Pull the lower clevis pin out and check that is not worn and also check that the ball on the end of the arm is not worn down. Also check clevis pin connecting push rod and that the push rod hole is not worn oversize. These things don't look like they would cause much loss of travel but they do. If any parts are worn biff them out and fit new.

The sprint is still festering in the corner of the workshop. One day!!! I have however done a full resto on a traveller that I own and a refurb on a Moke and SPI so some of the toys have had attention. 

Ah, and as I think back to a 1275GT I had in New Zealand, I had this very same problem with that car, and it turned out to be bad motor mounts.

Not the case with this car, as the motor mounts are new and firmly attached.  All engine steadies are also in place, along with a thermostat located steady back to the firewall.

Scott

Yup, 16 years!!!

Cranked it over for the first time a couple weeks back, now trying to sort the remaining stuff.

Clutch arm, clevis pin and push rod all look to be in good shape (can't tell if they were new when Murray put it together).

Was pretty stoked to get it moving today, so bit of a disappointment to run into this, but fiddly bits are what these cars are all about.

Did you ever get the sprint finished up Lee?

Scott

Hi Scott,

Was it really 16 years ago Murray did that engine?

Are clutch arm, clutch slave push rod and clevis pins on lever and pedal new?

Lee