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 Posted: Jul 5, 2016 10:00AM
 Edited:  Jul 5, 2016 10:03AM
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CA
Gel connectors are also sometimes referred to as 'scotch locks" because their basic function is similar - a metal blade slices through the insulation and makes electrical contact. However, the big differences are the shape and the gel. The 2 wires to be joined are slid into the opening ( on the left in the picture) until they bottom out, surrounded by the gel. No insulation is removed. Then the connector is compressed with pliers (or a proper tool such as parallel pliers - it must be compressed straight). The button with 2 blades in it is pressed in until it is flush with the clear outer shell. The 2 blades provide positive contact (in 2 places on each wire as far as I can tell) and the gel is forced out into the holes where the wires were inserted, sealing the conductors from air and moisture.

I haven't tried them on automotive work, but for electronics (phone, data cabling etc.) I find them great.

Here's a sampling of what is available from 3M. Most sem to be for AWG 19-22 wire size, but a few are bigger, up to 16ga. 

3M scotchloks

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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jul 5, 2016 09:40AM
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These "scotch-locks" are indeed "horrible" as minimans says. They aren't weatherproof resulting in corrosion and tend to come undone

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jul 5, 2016 04:40AM
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US
Well, I'm back from MME. 2000 miles, no problems on route from this issue. I did have a self inflicted one , when one of my crimps pulled out of the spade connectors because I decided to get rid of the inline fuses and put in a fuse block. Lucky it was found right away and in daylight. A good time was had by all.  I don't know if they are called scotch but I did zip tie them closed. Works well.

 Posted: Jun 26, 2016 03:05PM
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If you mean you used "scotch locks" to fix it? Then it won't stay fixed for long, bloody horrible things! it's really unusual for a wire to break in the middle of a run (even for Lucas) I would suspect that the problem would be at one end or the other unless there's a splice shown betwixt the two? also leaving an unknown break is asking for trouble in the future when it decides to short on an ajoining wire for instance. my advise would be find it and fix it, If you took your car to a professional it's what you would expect? So why short (Pun intended) the job yourself?

Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch

 Posted: Jun 26, 2016 03:04PM
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I have found this problem before and it turned out that one of the pins in the block harness connector between the ignition switch and main harness under the column had pushed back when connected and was not making full contact. Glad you got it running for MME.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Jun 26, 2016 02:00PM
 Edited:  Jun 26, 2016 02:03PM
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My fix to this situation. I still don't know exactly what caused the the no power because I feel I would be creating a big mess by unwrapping the cover off the wiring harness as it is the part that is under the dash tray and forward the  bulkhead. I was able to insert a straight pins at the harness blocks and get power.  I then use alligator clips  and wire to run a parallel wire which worked. For a more permanent solution, I bought some wire split connectors , which are made this exact circumstance. I want to thank again the members of this board for their help. See you at MME and  hopefully not on the side of the interstate. Jim

 Posted: Jun 24, 2016 09:36AM
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 Posted: Jun 24, 2016 08:49AM
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Sounds like some of that well-known Lucas. Smoke has leaked out of a wire somewhere?

If it's not Scottish....it's crap! (Cry of the Mini Tartan Owners' Clan)

 Posted: Jun 24, 2016 08:07AM
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OK, I'm making some progress. I hooked a wire from the back of the ignition switch to the starter relay (relay module) and it started by turning the key. Now to find the break in the wiring harness from the ignition switch  to the relay module. So all the components like the solenoid, relay module and starter, and battery work fine. 
 

 Posted: Jun 24, 2016 01:30AM
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Check for power to the switch and out of it i am guessing that your problem may be there, you should be able to check them right at the connector under the steering column. Also have the alarm/fob dash lights sequence changed at all or is it doing the same thing as usual before the problem ?

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Jun 23, 2016 05:44PM
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I'm thinking that the problem lies somewhere from the ignition switch to the computer, not the computer. I switched out two other black relay modules; no change. I switched out two other computers; no change. So, I'm thinking it has to be before the computer, I'll start with the  ignition switch tomorrow.

 Posted: Jun 23, 2016 02:06PM
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There  is a key fob, but I haven't used it in years. I turn the key to start , lights come on and dead silence. I can start the min by pushing the starter relay in the relay module and/or putting power to the solenoid and it will run. Those units are fine. The min was running great and then I parked it on Saturday and tried to start it the next day and nothing. I will have to look into the ignition wires . I did run a continuity check from the starter  relay but did not see if is hot when I turn the ignition.

 Posted: Jun 23, 2016 01:03PM
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Jim, forgot to ask is your Mini a UK one with a key fob alarm system ? If so is it working correctly ? Just as a matter of course have you reset the fuel pump shut off ?

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Jun 23, 2016 12:53PM
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Oh, sorry, i thought it was a conventional carburetor, sorry , my apology.

 Posted: Jun 23, 2016 11:29AM
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CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by mur
Mini4ever. Stop giving advice on topics which you know nothing about.

Just Stop.

You have been banned multiple times. 
What mur said.
 Tony: this car has fuel injection and electronic ignition control. It will not run until he determines why the fuel injection computer won't let it start. The computer controls spark and fuel supply. When the computer says "no", it won't supply fuel or spark. It also can refuse to send a signal to a relay that controls the starter solenoid. 6464 has already confirmed the starter works, if you bothered to read.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jun 23, 2016 10:17AM
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i told you, bypass the solenoid. it might be bad.----> Turn the key to "on"position, then connect the two wires that leads to the solenoid(bypassing the solenoid) if it starts then solenoid is bad, and if didnt start , then the ignition switch is fried. replace it.

OR get a tester, connect the two wires onto the starter, see if there's a continuity, if none, then starter is shot.

OR check the grounding. there might be some corrosion

OR test your electronic distributor module, it might be shot too. or condenser as the case maybe

if i only live close to you, i would wholeheartedly come over to your place and help you. seriously

 Posted: Jun 23, 2016 08:39AM
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Does the ignition light come on when in the switched position ? If it does check for power  power between the solenoid (large battery wire). When turned to the start position it should power the other smaller wire (white / red ?) if not you are losing power some where.
Check where the ignition switch harness plugs into the main one under the column. Apologies if this has already been covered.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Jun 23, 2016 07:35AM
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I still haven't found the cause of this problem.

 Posted: Jun 22, 2016 05:15AM
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Thanks Jedduh, I'm aware of the fusible links. From the schematic I'm now looking what powers the starter relay.

 Posted: Jun 22, 2016 04:30AM
 Edited:  Jun 22, 2016 04:31AM
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Thanks Mal! you might be on to something.



From another SPI FUse link related search!

"check the hypalon fuse links, remove the ring terminal from the starter motor, and slide back the fibreglass insulating sleave. This soft rubber insulated wire is the fuse link and it should have 'FUSE' printed on it some where along its length. If its blown you should be able to easily stretch the link like a rubber band. One othr thing to consider is corrosion of the soldered joint that joins the fuse link to the main wire in the loom. these have been know to break at that point too.

I like staying up on SPI's   More and more are going to be showing up in the USA! for sure!

I remember my former SPI Had this same ' inlsulated sleve " cover on one of the wires going to the starter- never looked inside- never a problem. Might pinpoint to where its located.

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