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 Posted: Jun 28, 2016 08:28AM
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Apologies. I meant I'm replacing the seal. 

 Posted: Jun 28, 2016 06:53AM
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Yes you can use dot4.

But why replace when rebuilding is easy and the cost savings are great?
If the caliper was cracked and leaking like another members was I'd say yes, but in your case no, just refresh.
I have faith you can do this.
You're probably okay just rebolting the two halves together, I was agreeing with Alex and taking it a step further.
SxS

 Posted: Jun 28, 2016 06:18AM
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Good advice. I'll replace it. 

Lastly, can I use DOT4 brake fluid?

 Posted: Jun 28, 2016 05:49AM
 Edited:  Jun 28, 2016 05:58AM
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You don't need to buy a new caliper.

In a rebuild kit it will have a large square cut seal (piston to caliper body), a small square cut seal (in between both caliper half's (which caused the leak when you took the bolts out)), a dust boot and a spring steel retaining ring which holds the boot to caliper body.
If your piston is original look for wear marks or pitting , if so I'd replace with a stainless steel piston/puck.
Brake fluid is hydroscopic (pulls H2O from the air). Even in dry Arizona I'd use SS caliper pistons.
This is a fun, easy project that ANYONE can do and is in the skill set of almost all weekend wrenches . 
Clean the caliper with degreaser, soap and water. Rinse well. If you don't have compressed air, sneak into house and put in toaster oven or regular oven, warm till dry. Your wife, your life (don't get caught).
Use fresh clean brake fluid or assembly lube if you have it. You could even send your calipers out for plating or power coating.
I'd use anti-seize on bolts that hold the caliper together and the bleeder. The groove where the square cut seals fit must be very clean, this is a must. There may be black crud that needs removed. A pick set to chip away and some scotch brite to clean the grooves are helpful.

If you take pictures you could write an article .

PS, when rebuilding at my old shop we had two sand blasters. One for general/rapid cleaning and a second with a very fine abrasive for final finish before plating or paint. Unless you are 100 % sure you're able to remove all media do not attempt. You should be able to get it clean with a wire brush and cleaners.

You've got this !

 Posted: Jun 28, 2016 05:32AM
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GB

The caliper is made in two halves, with a drilling between the two to allow the brake fluid to travel to and act on the outer piston.

This drilling is sealed by a small rubber ring clamped between the machined faces of the caliper halves.

By erroneously splitting the caliper, there is a chance that you now have a fluid pathway to the outside world - and the only way you'll know about it is during the accident...

The rubber seals are pence in real terms, and it is certainly worth changing the one on the caliper you've dismantled just to be safe.

All you need to do is dismantle it again, clean everything thoroughly, replace the seal and bolt it back together again.

I'd leave the pistons well alone unless they are rusty and siezed, though I can highly reccommend the Mini Magazine technical article on changing the pistons if you decide to do that.

 Posted: Jun 28, 2016 04:51AM
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What am I rebuilding? Should I buy a new caliper? I'm replacing rubber brake lines to the caliper. 

Sorry for the ignorance. 

 Posted: Jun 28, 2016 04:44AM
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I'm with Alex.

If they haven't been upgraded our host sells stainless steel caliper pistons and rebuild kits. Doesn't take much time or money and having 100 % confidence in your brakes is worth ?

Priceless .

 Posted: Jun 28, 2016 03:03AM
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GB
Me, I'd take the caliper off, clean the brake fluid off the gasket sealing faces, renew the seal and gaskets and rebuild it properly - but maybe that's just me being overly picky about having 100% confidence in my brakes...

 Posted: Jun 28, 2016 02:50AM
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Thanks, MtyMouse. Appreciate the advice!

 Posted: Jun 27, 2016 05:57PM
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US
I don't know what brake system you have, but most of them want you to bleed the rear first and then the front. If you never touched the rear, then you can skip them. They are, for all practical purposes, already bled. You can just do the 2 front brakes now. Again, all of this comes with the caveat that you didn't let the reservoir bleed completely dry. If you did, then I would spend the extra 10 minutes to bleed the rears as well.

 Posted: Jun 27, 2016 06:23AM
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Once I split the two halves, I barely let them seperate. No way it could have slipped out. I left the cotter pins in and all.

I haven't touched the rear brakes. Do I still have to bleed all 4, starting with the farthest from the resevoir?

Thanks

 Posted: Jun 24, 2016 04:17PM
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US
the seal looks like an o ring but is flat, like you sliced through a hose.  

 Posted: Jun 24, 2016 11:06AM
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US
If you split the caliper into two parts, there is a seal for the fluid pathway between the two halves. Did you make sure the seal was in place?

Kelley

"If you can afford the car, you can afford the manual..."

 Posted: Jun 24, 2016 08:13AM
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US
I'd bleed the brakes anyway. Just my personal "why not" kind of attitude. Not saying riley is wrong at all. It's easy to get a small pocket at the caliper that will make the rest of the system spongy. Worth the 10 minutes to bleed at least that one corner IMO. You probably don't need to bleed the whole system unless the reservoir was emptied like riley said. 

 Posted: Jun 24, 2016 05:10AM
 Edited:  Jun 24, 2016 05:12AM
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US
If you didn't let any air into the system, you should be okay. Check the fluid level in the reservoir to see how much you let out. If it's not empty, add some more and give it a try. If it is empty, you'll need to bleed the brakes. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea anyway, just in case you got an air bubble in the lines, but if everything feels normal, I wouldn't sweat it too much.

 Posted: Jun 24, 2016 05:01AM
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Was trying to do the brakes. Took the wrong two bolts out of the caliper and the brake fluid poured out. I put the caliper back together

Is this never going to seal right again?