Yes it should be riveted and i believe should have a commission plate as well all attached with three rivets total one of which attaches the two plates together in the center, it seems that most commission plates are discarded when re vinning.
Ian, no there should not be a vin stamped in the scuttle if in fact it is a true 1977. Just another one of the reasons to look and compare it (if present) to the vin number.

No screws were used on all early cars don't know about the later stuff......not my thing........

Thanks for being helpful Ian.  What about the phillips screws used on the VIN plate?  Seems off?  Shouldn't it be riveted?  

So, if it is a '77 there won't be a second VIN stamping??  Sounds like good news to me.  But you still need to know what that (VIN) plate identifies it as.... if you hope to use it officially.  Maybe the "S" registration plate is another clue.  With the internet you may be able to query UK vehicle records.  Someone on here will probably be able to identify the S reg year.  (Of course plates are easily swapped).  

All the other so called identifyers (side lights etc) are easily explained away.  I would reckon that car has had more than a little work done on it... 30 to 40 years old UK vehicle with no rust??? And those bonded in flairs are not a trivial job.... Doors could have been easily replaced.  The quality of the work, not the fact that it has been done, is the important issue.

With regard to your query re the unconnected lights....  With electricity its power in = power out.  The power consumed by the lights (and all the other bits and pieces (indicators, brake lights, ignition, wipers, radio etc etc) must be provided by the alternator.  The battery is a passive player; it takes in the power provided by the alternator and dishes it out to the various consumers (including the starter motor).  While relays have a part to play they're not involved in this equation.  

Remember I=P/V ?? The amps (I) put out by the alternator must be greater than the P (sum of the wattage of all the electrical items being used) divided by 12 (V). My lights use about 35 amps... which I think is more than the output of a normal Mini generator.... (haven't had one for so long I'm not really sure what their output is.. or, at least, should be

Extra wires from the battery are OK.. I power my fuel pump through a relay connected directly to the battery (because its at the back) and switched from the ignition.  If the stereo amplifier (if there is one) is in the boot then a direct connection to the battery would be logical.

Cheers, Ian

I know that and am well versed in the import export and registering laws.
Minis have had a lot of bad press along with Land Rovers and are critiqued moreso in certain states when beig registered. Bottom line is when buying a car with no title on a BOS only make sure everything matches so you have no headaches down the road.

I mention 1991 only because that's exactly 25 years ago from meow 

They have been re vinning Minis well before 1991. The scuttle panel numbers are easy to read and is only not there if the whole scuttle is replaced (Not that often) when just the ends are replaced the number is still present. It should be noted that only 1980 and newer have the scuttle stamped. Othet parts on the car are date stamped including the trunk lock coded 08 84 would be the 8th week of 1984 for the build date. The engine block usually looses its tag when it is re built.

Here's my solicited opinion:

1)when you are looking to buy a classic mini, stick with the MK1's, the resale value of MK1's are way higher compared to the newer ones. (the MK1's are the minis where the door hinges are located outside rather than inside. / the tail lights are oval rather than rectangular / the windows are a bit smaller than the new ones. / and the smell of the interior is worse than the newer ones because it's older./ and the gear lever travels from 1st gear to 2nd gear in the length of 20inches,and it will travel in a matter of 5 seconds, you're lucky IF it will engage.??!! they're pretty loose because they're old cars,and that makes them very pricey and very much sought after.) i like MK1's

2) Another thing, more than the cleanliness of the title, and more than the condition of the engine, you must consider the condition of the body your top priority, look for mini which has the least rust, because it's very pricey to deal with body repair, time consuming and messy. unlike the engine, you can just buy an engine and drop it in,no sweat., but the body repair will give you more headache.

good luck!

I'm aware of the re-VIN issue with these cars and I have no interest in a post 1991 car currently.  The only other place I've heard to find the VIN is on the scuttle panel (right in front of the windshield).  And the stampings here are apparently hit or miss.. both from the factory and since this is a high rust area that is usually replaced.  Are there other places to find the VIN on these cars that I'm not aware of?  It is a replacement engine, so any engine stamping won't be of help.  Thanks!

Ask the owner for a picture of the 2nd vin number it should match the other vin. A lot of states require this to be examined especially when registering a car from a different state and more so if the vehicle has no title and just a bill of sale. The car could be a re vin and the curent owner may not know it, you are better off finding out now before a problem arises and you are out $15K.
The doors should have horizontal interior pull handles and the fenders should not have side turn signal repeater lamps fitted. I would need more detailed pictures to confirm the year 100 per cent.
Some folks buy re vinned cars with no issues or problems you should know what you have before the sale especially with that amount of money being spent and it also helps when ordering parts.

Thanks for the response Ian.  I do plan to view the car in person; I don't buy cars sight unseen.  The seller claims he does have the receipts for the work done.  He has owned it for 4 years and apparently imported it from the UK himself.  While the VIN is clearly displayed, I noticed that the plate is screwed on with phillips-head screws?  I thought these were usually riveted on?  While I know that someone can easily pop-rivet plates on, this one doesn't even have those.  Questionable?  Or normal?  The VIN is appropriate for a '77 according to lists on this site.

To minimans, who mentioned the double-post, you are correct.. someone was trying to be nice and accidentally double posted.  I'll write on there to direct people here.

Malsal, can you fill me in on what is different about the doors and fenders for a real 1977?  Are you talking about size/shape/build of the doors?  Or just the door card (easily changed)?  Thanks for any help!

Regards,
Andrew

Not a real 77 unless the doors and fenders along with other later parts have been changed. A lot of money for a no title car imo. 

We've already done this one? See previous post on anybody know this car.....................

Looks like a nice car to me with a number of quality upgrades.. Mind you, photos aren't always totally reliable, but if you go "feel the quality.." yourself you'll know where you stand.......  Does the vendor still have the receipts for the recent work done, (the ad quotes a recent Mania engine)?

The "VIN" is clearly displayed so you could either pursue Heritage for the (official) original identity or ask on one of the UK Mini chat sites for a full interpretation of the numbers displayed.  Once you know what it "really" is, you're in a position to properly apply Government regulation in order to establish your legal situation.

To me it looks like a good deal to me... but then, I like that kind of car..and its not my money  

Cheers, Ian

Hello, first time potential mini buyer here.  I do have some experience with American classics.  Another MM member encouraged me to post this to see if there was any extra info out there.  I'm interested in the following mini posted here on MM:

//www.minimania.com/cars4Sale/13567/1977_Leyland_1000_Sedan



You can also see it listed on Hemmings here:

//www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/mini/unspecified/1816881.html

Does anybody know this car?  Any experience with it or the seller?  I just spoke with him this evening and found him amiable and ready to answer questions.

I don't much care for historical accuracy or bringing to stock.  I do care about legality, functionality, and value.  If you have any thoughts or opinions on the car I'm interested in those as well since I don't have much mini experience, given they're constructive.  Thanks for your time.

Regards,
Andrew