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 Posted: Jul 29, 2016 10:20AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Moffet
I agree with Spitz on the issue of brake and a more powerful engine. Braking load is overcoming the inertia of the mass of the car. There is little difference in mass between an 850 and a 1275.
As I see it the significant difference would be in driving style - with a small motor one would take corners trying to keep momentum up; with a big motor, one could use it to accelerate and therefore brake hard, take the corner tighter, then accelerate out.
MAYBE...After many years I changed my 998 brakes for some 1275s brakes.  I got done and went for a drive. I was b.s.ing around and someone stopped in front of me.  I literally stood on the brakes and stopped real close to him.  I can tell you that with the 998 brakes I would have ended up in his trunk...no doubt. I figured that was the day those 1275's paid for themselves.  Your opions may vary.

 Posted: Jul 28, 2016 11:58AM
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CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex
I've had several 295s crack, both during and after seat installation.
Have you determined why they cracked? Head design? Brittle metal? Fatigued/stressed casting?

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jul 28, 2016 08:59AM
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GB
I've had several 295s crack, both during and after seat installation.

 Posted: Jul 28, 2016 08:29AM
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US
Yes, they are around but mostly long of tooth. I had a Speedwell on a 997 which brought CR up to 11.5 to 1. Replaced it with a nice 202 and never looked back. I think someone pointed out there are several nice small bore casting. I have had good luck with the 295. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Jul 28, 2016 07:26AM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by JEFF10049
I was also curious dose anyone make a alloy small bore head? 

Back in the day there were many small bore alloy heads on the market from tuners like Alexander and Speedwell. It seems once the large bore engines became available development of hot rod small bore parts all but stopped. I am not aware of any current production alloy small bore heads on the market.

 Posted: Jul 28, 2016 03:11AM
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CA
I agree with Spitz on the issue of brake and a more powerful engine. Braking load is overcoming the inertia of the mass of the car. There is little difference in mass between an 850 and a 1275.
As I see it the significant difference would be in driving style - with a small motor one would take corners trying to keep momentum up; with a big motor, one could use it to accelerate and therefore brake hard, take the corner tighter, then accelerate out.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jul 27, 2016 08:15PM
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CA
You're right about that.
I've decided to stick with single leading on my 61.  I don't plan on racing it.
It's a common comment for people to make " oh if you're fitting a 1275 you better fit disc brakes "
A 998 can be driven as hard and fast as a 1275….so a moot point
No doubt, discs are more efficient etc.  I enjoy not having to adjust them….but twin leading worked fantastic on my slalom car, and stop on a dime…. and straight... if not neglected

I bought a 295 head with hardened valve seats built by a forum member here a number of years ago…no issues at all

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Jul 27, 2016 07:32PM
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US
I was also curious dose anyone make a alloy small bore head? 

Whats all the talk about brakes? I have a 60 and I sold off the twin leading parts the previous owner was collecting and put all stock new stuff when I restored the car. Im not saying twin leading isn't better we all know it is but I wanted stock  properly adjusted and maintained 1960 brakes work fine if you're just pleasure driving your mini they might heat to a concern in track use or high speed over 70. But I can stop as many times as I ever cared to try in a row from 65-70 mph and never not be able to skid the tires after that brakes don't matter anyway. I even rode them before hand to try and heat them up I wanted to know what the car would do worst case and it would still lock up if I pushed it hard enough. 

I say this with no disrespect to those recommending a up grade I just don't see what the big deal is. Or is it more that people don't maintain their brakes and the later versions are more tolerant? 

 Posted: Jul 26, 2016 05:06AM
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US
Alex, what issues with hard seats in 295 heads. I try and make do with O/S exhaust valve to raise the seat and don't worry about lead. I have had hard seats installed in them. We have a SPI seat that works well in the 295. I recently invested in a new cutter just for the small bore exhaust seats. When the last shop I bought one for went out of biz and I lost that one. 

I have had issues putting seats in MGB 1800 heads. Very easy to break into water on them. 

A cyl. head on a engine I did awhile back suffered worn seats after a cross country and back trip. I think #3 was the worst but it was enough to require resetting valves to avoid a miss. I had requested hard seats but they failed to make it but I was charged. I believe the cam choice had something to do with the seat wear as well as the long miles climbing the great divide. The Piper and the SW5 are both going to be harder on valve train than other cams found in older engines. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Jul 26, 2016 01:50AM
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US
like Hugh said:  Up grade from the 7 to 7.5" brakes. The stopping power will be very noticeable.

What carb and exhaust do you have?

air in/ air out is part of the key to performance.

 Posted: Jul 25, 2016 10:53PM
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GB
I'd be tempted to leave the head alone and just run with a quality lead additive like Castol Valvemaster, or Redline Lead Substitute - I've had a few issues with putting hardened seats into 12G295 heads.

 Posted: Jul 25, 2016 05:05PM
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US
My first Mini had an 1100 engine in it and it had crazy torque!  

 


  

 Posted: Jul 25, 2016 04:03PM
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The car does have 7" discs on the front but no servo (I do have one planned). She does rev quite high, takes off like a scalded cat so I think it may have the original diff.  A local expert says he prefers the MG 1100 engine to the cooper because of the torque. As I understand it, the MG 1100 head has nice big valves ! It is beginning to look like I will be better off getting the original head re-built
Steve

 Posted: Jul 25, 2016 03:49PM
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12G295, 12G202, and 12G206 (if memory serves me correctly) are all good small bore heads.

Was the differential changed as a stock MG 1100 will be pulling some serious revs at 60mph, great for autocross though 

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Jul 25, 2016 03:28PM
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Forget the head.  I hope you or the previous owner upgraded the brakes.  1960 Minis had pretty lousy brakes. 

"Retired:  No Job, No Money, Wife and I!  Will travel anywhere for Minis"

[email protected]

 Posted: Jul 25, 2016 08:47AM
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Do they make a Alloy head for the small bore engines?

Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch

 Posted: Jul 25, 2016 08:47AM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by exiledbrit
My little mini is in excellent condition and is basically stock including the magic wand gearshift but early in her life had the engine swapped for an MG1100 motor.
I plan to remove the head soon to replace the valve seats but might consider replacing the head with a new alloy or aluminum unit. Can anyone tell me what my options are, since the engine is clearly not a stock mini unit.
Steve 
The aftermarket alloy heads that I've seen are for the large bore 1275 engines. These can be made to fit a small bore engine like the 1100 but it is not a simple drop into place operation.  

There is a good chance your 1100 has the best small bore head already in place. Pop the rocker cover off and look for the casting number 12G295. If so this is the head to run when decked for proper compression. So that brings up the next question ... what sort of pistons are hiding inside your engine? If "pop up" (high compression) pistons are in place they are probably factory matched to the cylinder head. If they are flat top or dished then more questions come up.

John

 Posted: Jul 25, 2016 07:44AM
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My little mini is in excellent condition and is basically stock including the magic wand gearshift but early in her life had the engine swapped for an MG1100 motor.
I plan to remove the head soon to replace the valve seats but might consider replacing the head with a new alloy or aluminum unit. Can anyone tell me what my options are, since the engine is clearly not a stock mini unit.
Steve