Oh, yeah. I forgot about that one. I got two out of three, though. 

You can use the earlier type strap to hold the larger later type fuel tanks in place, no additional hardware needed.

Brian, I think he's asking about where the fuel hose comes in through the boot floor.

As far as I know, there should be a grommet there.  Lacking a proper one, I think all I did was to split a piece of larger heater hose, slip it around the fuel hose, slide it through the boot floor, and secure it with a cable tie.  You just need to prevent the fuel hose from being in contact with the edges of the sheet metal.  All sorts of workarounds can be used.

The filler neck grommet

And the foam seal

Doug, and everyone else, thank you for the detailed info. I will go with a electric pump at subframe.

As I understand, a 7.5 gal. tank can be fit to earlier car without too much hassle. I'm just not sure whether there's additional hardware needed besides the diagonal strap. I will play with it to see if the tank stays in place with just the strap.

One more question about a small detail. Do you use some sort of grommet where the fuel hose enters the boot?

Just for information SU pumps come in both suck and blow type. I.e. Are designed to pull fuel from the front of the car like an MG TD or push fuel forward as in the mini. I would fit a electronic SU pump in the original location on the rear sub frame. It seems to have worked for the last  50 odd years why reinvent the wheel? Plus no worries about pressure and flow...........

With worm-type clamps (Doug Lawson's 2nd pic) you need to use the proper size. The body that holds the worm and band together is curved at a fixed radius. This curve should match the OD of the hose you are clamping; otherwise you get the D-shape and a leak. I spend the extra few cents for stainless steel ones - stronger metal and they don't corrode. The ones in Doug's first pic are good, though again must be the right size. I tend not to trust the spring type in the 4th pic. OK for non-pressurized but I find they rust and crumble. They usually come with filters etc. and collect in a drawer.

I have used the Mr Gasket fuel pump also, it is the quietest electric one i have found. I also use the FI hose and FI hose clamps (sheet metal type) as they tighten up evenly unlike the others which i find form a D shape when used on 1/4 inch hose.

I too tend to use FI hose on carb equipped cars also.
It's overkill but will last longer. On installation even on regular fuel hose I use a little grease to ease the hose into place.

Facet makes a very reliable pump but can be very noisy, very loud thumping , but once the car is running it would be hard to hear over the engine and exhaust note.

I was at Jeg's a few weeks ago with another board member buying a pump and fuel filters for his ole race mini. Jeg's offers a nice inline glass fuel filter with replaceable element for pretty cheap.
The UK brand of fuel filters called "Filter King" looks good but also is rather large compared to the smaller inline filers.    

I stand corrected on the Mk1 pumps.  I had always assumed that the electric pump was unique to the Cooper and -S.  I apologize.

The reason I did not specify injection hose is that some of it can be quite stiff making it very difficult to apply over barbed fittings and tubing.  If you have a source for FI hose that works easily for you there is no reason not to use it. However, the higher pressure rating of FI hose is not required in this application.  

 4. The standard MkI fuel pump is an SU electric one mounted on the rear subframe. If you search here on SU fuel pump you'll find the required bits. later mechanical pumps are mounted on the back of the engine because they are driven by the cam shaft. I don't think your motor will have the hole and wounding boss for a mechanical pump and your cam might not have the lobe that drives the pump. SU pumps are fed by gravity so need to be below the tank and closer to the tank the better. I don't think SU fuel pumps or after market equivalents are very good at sucking through long fuel lines.

Doug- can you elaborate on your suggestion for' NOT BUY FUEL injection hose = as this is all I use..  FI hose is rated for all fuels and up to 300 PSI = Seems pretty tough to me.


Fuel pumps:

SU's can be nice and quiet=  most expensive  have the on off operation when pressure is reached,.

Facet pumps=  have a very Audible Clack Clack Clack when running .

I used a Mr Gasket pump = From advance auto parts = has  a constant Whirr sound when in use.

//www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MRG0/42S.oap?pt=N0515



Above all - make sure you rubber mount - isolate mount the pump from the frame or the body = this will dampen the noises from the pumps in to the cabins.

All MkI Minis had an electric fuel pump mounted on the rear subframe below the tank. That's where the wires are located and the best place for it.

I cannot answer about the tank with the diagonal strap.  I believe that was from later cars.  My Mk1 uses the slightly smaller tank with the strap going over the top of the tank as shown in the left view of the page you provided the link to.

I believe a non-Cooper Mk1 would have used the mechanical pump on the engine block.  Cooper and -S placed the electric SU pump under the LH tank mounted to the subframe.  Pumps work better as pushers than pullers and they generally perform better without excess heat.  Therefore, it would be preferable to mount the pump at the rear, below the fuel tank as the Coopers did.  If you do mount the pump in the engine bay you should keep it away from heat and mount it as low as possible.

There are lots of pumps to choose from (Facet, Airtex, SU, SU clones, etc).  What you need to focus on is the fuel delivery pressure.  SUs carbs prefer pressures near 3 PSI.  Many aftermarket pumps (such as the common Facet pumps... if you select the wrong one) deliver more than that.  I would consider 4 PSI an absolute max on a street car with SU carbs.  If you select a pump with higher output pressure than that, you should also invest in a pressure regulator.  Use the low-pressure Holley regulator in preference to the "round pancake" regulators you are likely to find at the parts store.  The regulator will be mounted between the pump and the carbs.  Amazon typically has the best prices on the Holley regulator.  Don't forget to add fuel filters.

Common 1/4" low-pressure fuel hose will work fine between the tank and pump.  Do not buy fuel injection hose.  You can use any clamp you are happy with.  Worm type hose clamps are common but can damage the outside of the hose.  With low pressure... it really doesn't matter much.  I have used all of the clamp types below over the years.  

Sheet metal band type hose clamp


Worm type hose clamp


Improved worm type with smooth interior (better)


Spring type hose clamp

Hello,

I'm slowly putting various bits into a restored shell, and currently trying to install a 7.5 gallon L/H tank. Since i don't have any reference photos, I have a few questions about some installation details:

1. I have fuel pipe installed under the floor. I wonder if there's specific hose that connect the metal pipe with fuel tank. I assume that any 1/4" bore fuel hose would work. But I am concerned the hose rubbing against the metal where it enters boot.

2. What fitting should I use to connect the hose with tank?

3. Besides the diagonal strap, is there any other pieces I need to install to fix tank in place? I don't see anything mentioned on this page.

4. What fuel pump do folks recommend to use? I see pictures of the pump being installed under the body or in engine compartment. It seems putting it in engine bay is a better solution, yes?

Thank you for your help.