I have adjustable lower arms & tie-rods.

Use 12x5" mags with Yokie 539s, 8.4" Metro brakes, run <1 deg. neg. camber all round and 4.5 deg. castor on right, 3.5 deg castor on left (for road crowning).  I also drive on the right side and the tire is closer to body work there when turning left.

Sorry I wasn't more explicit. In my picture, I was not referring to the rods with the yellow bushings. I was referring to the ring bolt - the tow ring - at the top of the image, just below the bumper. As built, Minis got one tow ring and one regular nut/bot on the other side. These bolts attach the body to the front corners of the subframe, and often have an assortment of shims to align the subframe. Because of manufacturing variations, some cars need more shims, and not necessarily equal on both sides. Without shims, the bolts pull the front bodywork in, causing the fenders to bulge slightly - like what happens when you squeeze a plastic cup.

Now for the rods. As part of teh suspension, they do determine castor angle, but as standard are not really adjustable. If the rubber bushings you have are old and cracked, they probably do need replacing. To reduce castor angle, one would shim between the rubber bushing and the sub-frame on the wheel side of the sub-frame. That would push the hub back. But I don't know if anyone makes shims for this purpose, or how much would be required. (Steve aka CooperTune does mention adjustable rods.)

You are dealing with a early two bolt sub and 6 inch Revs. Yes, they are going to hit at a popular ride height. Most of us are dealing with late single bolt per side subs. We are also using taller but much more narrow wheel. In the past I have cut the fronts, I found the point at which the wing meets valance 5/8 to 3/4 removed there and flare up and down about 6 inches to zero removed. We remove the crescent noych the flange behind the joint slip the removed part behind the area where removed and tack weld back in place to protect the tire in case there is a coming together. 

Having located a Dunlop Caster / Camber gauge last year I'm still looking for a car with adjustable strut rods and anywhere near even castor on both sides. Steve (CTR)

I switched from 8.4"s to 7.5"s and my hub to hub width is identical. Not sure if that's because I bought an entire afterarket setup, but I would assume it's identical to a stock 7.5" setup. 

I should then check the rubber on those rods and shim it some?

The subframe bolts I was referring to are down in front below the bumper, behind the valence. One is where your tow ring is connected.

ive got these rims min max revolutions. I believe car is lowerd some. ive removed the spacer and it is still about 1 inch away from not hitting the tire. it hit the tire when you turn the wheel. my subframe is a 2 bolt per side(1966) subframe. im pretty sure the knuckle joints were replaced when the car was rebuilt but ill check those
 
//www.revolutionwheels.com/wheels/road/4-spoke-classic/

I have the same Rover Alloys Coopertune mentions with the same size Falkin tires. When I got the Mini, the knuckle joints were due for replacement, leaving the car too low and getting the rub. With new knuckle joints and the old, tired rubber springs, it still rubbed a bit. Researching the issue, I read that if the front corner mounts for the subframe are not correctly shimmed, the fenders are distorted slightly - enough to bow inward and cause tire rub. Too little or too much shim produce the same effect. I tried it and it worked, even with the low, tired springs. Since then I have upgraded the suspension.

I have a 85 1000 E with 7.5 S disc. I was running 5X10 D 1s with 145 x 10s. I picked up 20 Rover 12 inch mini lite knock offs mostly with 145s. I have been wearing them out just to use up the rubber. With current power unit I have problems with tire spin in first and second gear. Yesterday I mounted two Falkin 165 X12s on the same wheel and gave them a try. While close along the forward edge I still have one finger clearance. While slightly aggressive very little little showing beyond std. fender line. New rubber steers, rides, and grips so good I wonder why people ride for years on old rubber. Steve (CTR)

PS I have another mini with 8.4s and the same wheel and tire combo. It has the std black flares and no clearance issues. 

I think they're about the same.

What wheels are you running, and how low is the car ?

I had big problems with the front edge of the tyre hitting the wing, which was traced to a sevely wrong castor angle.  Set everything back as it should be and it's been fine ever since - this is with 7½" discs as well.

then the 7.5 in cooper. im having problems with my  165 60 r12  tires hitting the front fenders. i don't want to cut them and get new flares. thinking of taking off the cooper and replacing with the 8.4 im wondering if that will allow them to clear. ive got springs and adjustable hi lows( the good ones you need an Allen key to adjust)