How tight to go on castle nut
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Sep 22, 2016 11:37AM | BS | |
Sep 22, 2016 08:29AM | Hunter2 | |
Sep 22, 2016 07:11AM | SXSMAN | |
Sep 22, 2016 06:13AM | Dan Moffet | |
Sep 22, 2016 05:50AM | easteregg | |
Sep 22, 2016 05:09AM | specialist | Edited: Sep 22, 2016 05:23AM |
Sep 22, 2016 04:49AM | Dan Moffet | |
Sep 21, 2016 03:35PM | h_lankford | |
Sep 21, 2016 01:44PM | malsal | Edited: Sep 21, 2016 05:25PM |
Sep 21, 2016 12:48PM | minimans | |
Sep 21, 2016 12:18PM | specialist | Edited: Sep 21, 2016 01:01PM |
Sep 21, 2016 12:04PM | h_lankford | |
Sep 21, 2016 07:12AM | easteregg | |
Sep 20, 2016 12:12PM | jeg | |
Sep 20, 2016 08:51AM | malsal | |
Sep 20, 2016 05:35AM | easteregg | |
Sep 20, 2016 03:48AM | malsal | |
Sep 20, 2016 02:31AM | CooperTune | |
Sep 19, 2016 06:35PM | 1963SV2 | |
Sep 19, 2016 06:01PM | specialist | Edited: Sep 20, 2016 05:48AM |
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with the acronym. It's been my MiniMania screen name since 1999.
Bill
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BS the acronym for BAN SPECIALIST.
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CV joints can be torqued many times but have a finite life of the threads.
Spirited driving can also shorten the life of the threads.
Picture is of Don Racine's race car at Mid Ohio.
What time is it ?
Time for a new CV.....(Note stretched/weakened threads).
Don went on to win.
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.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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.
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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this is exactly what I said. (We all know why it was purposefully misinterpreted.)
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edited: sir paul, its because lankford said he wouldnt use the cotter pin which i think is dangerous, even if everythings workng properly its still is risky.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch
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edited: sir paul, its because lankford said he wouldnt use the cotter pin which i think is dangerous, even if everythings workng properly its still is risky.
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That's what I ended up doing..just bending the eye of the cotter a little to angle into the teeth.
The bearings and races are new. There shouldn't be any wear...but I hear you that the hub may be a little worn.
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The peasants are revolting...
"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance
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If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Thanks for the attention to detail in the post 6464! (Is that what we call you?)
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No failures. Even our +200lb man bouncing on 12" wrench set the proper torque for the new CV & bearings in Queensland!
Incidentally, Ken N. in Ipswich, Qld. said setting pre-load with tapered roller bearings was easier/more accurate than with ball bearings.
"....the issue is that if it were packed in further, allowing the castle to thread on further, it would be behind the hole and the cotter would be in front of the teeth of the cotter. Does that make sense?.."
The way it works is this; the bearings and drive shaft slide on to the CV stub axle (which BMC describes as the "drive shaft". The inner bearing sits on the face of the CV the bearing distance piece sits on the inner race the outer bearing inner race (getting tongue tied) sits on the distance piece and the hub and disc assembly (what i call the drive flange) sit on the outer inner race. The drive shaft nut sits on the tapered collar which sits on the drive flange and jams all this together.
The only way the drive shaft nut thread can stick out too far is for the CV face to outer drive flange face distance is too short... For this to happen either the bearings, the spacer or the drive flange is too thin.. Of all these, only the drive flange is subject to wear (assuming you're using new bearings etc). Virtually all drive flanges I have seen are worn .. (but none as badly as described). Which is why the early flange with its replaceable inner collar seems like a really good idea.
As I mentioned earlier, if the flange is so worn to have moved this far inwards, I'm surprised that the disc is not rubbing on the upright/calliper somewhere.
IMHO the actual torque is not the critical as long as there's lots.... I drove and maintained my Mins for 30 years before I bought a torque wrench. In those days I weighed something north of 140 lbs. I would just stand on the end of a foot(ish) long socket drive give it a bit of a bounce. Then check it and bounce a bit more to line up the holes for the split pin. I've never (sic) had a bearing fail.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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No failures. Even our +200lb man bouncing on 12" wrench set the proper torque for the new CV & bearings in Queensland!
Incidentally, Ken N. in Ipswich, Qld. said setting pre-load with tapered roller bearings was easier/more accurate than with ball bearings.
"....the issue is that if it were packed in further, allowing the castle to thread on further, it would be behind the hole and the cotter would be in front of the teeth of the cotter. Does that make sense?.."
The way it works is this; the bearings and drive shaft slide on to the CV stub axle (which BMC describes as the "drive shaft". The inner bearing sits on the face of the CV the bearing distance piece sits on the inner race the outer bearing inner race (getting tongue tied) sits on the distance piece and the hub and disc assembly (what i call the drive flange) sit on the outer inner race. The drive shaft nut sits on the tapered collar which sits on the drive flange and jams all this together.
The only way the drive shaft nut thread can stick out too far is for the CV face to outer drive flange face distance is too short... For this to happen either the bearings, the spacer or the drive flange is too thin.. Of all these, only the drive flange is subject to wear (assuming you're using new bearings etc). Virtually all drive flanges I have seen are worn .. (but none as badly as described). Which is why the early flange with its replaceable inner collar seems like a really good idea.
As I mentioned earlier, if the flange is so worn to have moved this far inwards, I'm surprised that the disc is not rubbing on the upright/calliper somewhere.
IMHO the actual torque is not the critical as long as there's lots.... I drove and maintained my Mins for 30 years before I bought a torque wrench. In those days I weighed something north of 140 lbs. I would just stand on the end of a foot(ish) long socket drive give it a bit of a bounce. Then check it and bounce a bit more to line up the holes for the split pin. I've never (sic) had a bearing fail.
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