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 Posted: Sep 20, 2016 02:09PM
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Sometimes the shafts wear into the aluminum body and new shafts do not cure the problem. Joe Curto in NY sells oversize shafts (10 thou i believe) and after reaming the body and installing the new shafts they are nice and tight.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Sep 20, 2016 01:39PM
 Edited:  Sep 20, 2016 01:40PM
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Thanks Malsal,  I have total rebuild kits coming.  Throttle shafts, butterflies and all.  I looked at the throttle shafts and they showed some wear, not that much.  I think that my problem may be more in line with my new manifold which is for HS4 carbs, and there may be too much difference between the carb face and manifold face.  I will try again with the old original manifold for HS2 carbs.

Dogscarf

 Posted: Sep 19, 2016 05:07PM
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Check the throttle shafts for wear HS2s always wear badly and create vacumn leaks. Most "re built carbs" by previous owners i have run across have just had floats, needle and seats and maybe jets thrown at them. Also make sure the inlet manifold is lined up correctly with the cylinder head, there should be metal locating rings on the cylinder head to position it correctly.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Sep 19, 2016 04:19PM
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US
If the PO rebuilt the carbs years ago and they don't have a ton of miles on them, they probably just need cleaning and proper adjusting.  When cars are parked with fuel in the carbs the float bowls, float valves, and jets & needles tend to get covered by gum and varnish from evaporating fuel.  If the parts are in good mechanical condition, cleaning may be all you need.

As for the jet length, it's not really critical as long as the needle doesn't "bottom out" point first in the jet.  It is the annular gap between the needle and the top opening of the jet that controls the fuel metering.  Regardless of jet length, when adjusting the mixture, start with the jet flush with the bridge in the carb throat and adjust it "down" from there.  Jet length isn't critical for achieving this.

Doug L.
 Posted: Sep 19, 2016 01:47PM
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OK, yesterday I got it started on points.  It would not run for more than 10 seconds.  When I pushed the gas pedal it died.  So, now I am tearing the carbs off and rebuilding them.  The PO rebuilt them a few years ago but as many things with the car they were probably not done correctly.  I have the 1.25" carbs apart, new rebuild kits on order, should be here Thursday.  The jets the PO put in are shorter by 1/8" than the old ones so my new needle selection is 1/8" too long.  Hopefully the new jets are the correct length.  Lots of new gaskets are coming too because this sounds like a vacuum leak to me but I don't see where it is.

Frustrated in Wisconsin.

 Posted: Sep 19, 2016 06:54AM
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CA
Reminds me of when my neighbour changed points in his 60's Cutlass and it would not start. He came to me in desperation.  Turned out he gapped the points between lobes. The points were always open and got wider as the lobes went past.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Sep 18, 2016 11:35AM
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OK,  It turns out that the points had closed on one distributor squelching the spark.  The other distributor is a brand new Pertronix II Flamethrower.  The pickup is bad.  Infinite resistance when I put my voltmeter on it.  No spark at all to the plugs.  I reinstalled the points distributor and will try to start again later.
Dogscarf

 Posted: Sep 17, 2016 03:54AM
 Edited:  Sep 17, 2016 04:06AM
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CA
Guys: see his other thread ---Engine timing double check --- he has already changed out coil, dizzy, cap and plug wires.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Sep 17, 2016 03:40AM
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If you are running points change the condensor.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Sep 16, 2016 06:54PM
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US
change the coil.

 Posted: Sep 16, 2016 04:34PM
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US
I agree.  A new thread would get fresh eyes on the problem.

How are you testing for spark?  Is this electronic ignition or points? 

Don't arbitrarily change from 1.5 Ohms to 3 Ohms or vise-versa.  Tell us what color wires are on each coil terminal before making any changes.  Pictures are helpful if the wire colors are clearly visible.

Doug L.
 Posted: Sep 16, 2016 02:54PM
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CA
Suggest you stick to your other thread to cut down on duplication. Symptoms point toward electrics and ignition system.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Sep 16, 2016 11:26AM
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OK.  I got it to run a little longer, say 30 seconds.  Now there is no spark at all.  I wonder if the coil is burned out.  It is not even hot.  No spark anywhere.  I will swap a 1.5 or 3 ohm coil to use with a Pertonix 2 dist.  next.

 Posted: Sep 16, 2016 09:43AM
 Edited:  Sep 16, 2016 09:47AM
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CA
Check the timing. Too much advance will kill a cold engine.
EDIT: I see on your other thread that timing is approximate. Sort it out properly.
Check for air leaks, such as open vacuum line etc.
Are you giving it choke to warm it up - dropping the jets 1/8" isn't much choke?

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Sep 16, 2016 09:21AM
 Edited:  Sep 16, 2016 09:21AM
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Fellow Minioids,  Onto a new topic.  Now my newly rebuilt 1275 S engine will not stay running.  It runs for 4-5 seconds then when I give it more gas it dies.  It starts right up but will not continue to run.  I have a car show tomorrow and I am trying to get it running for it.  I have oil in the dashpots, filters off dashpots lift fine.  I even pulled the jets down so that they are about 1/8" under the jet seats.  This is the same move I did on my Austin Healey 3000 motor that worked.   I think that it sound more like a carb and fuel issue.  Maybe a vacuum leak????  I have 1.25 carbs.  They are balanced.  I tried putting different needles in to give a richer mixture as I still have the stock 'M' needles but the other needles AUD-1003 and AH2 are 1/8" too long.  Any ideas??

Dogscarf

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