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 Posted: Oct 6, 2016 03:32PM
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Youre right sir Dan,,  im worried if i order a throttle shaft then i tale the carb apart only to know that the worn out part is the hole in the carb itself and not the shaft.  
But joe curto said i can use jb weld to seal the worn out hole.,, hmm i dunno what he meant about it.


for the meantime, i managed to slip a round rubber into the shaft to squeeze and sandwich the grease and produce a tighter seal.  As seen in the pic.The rubber is originally use for faucet(gasket)  

 Posted: Oct 6, 2016 02:45PM
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CA
The grease idea is intended to be a test method. If you use grease for an extended period of time it will collect dust, grit and grime. That will stiffen the grease and eventually your throttle. Not a good idea for a solution.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Oct 6, 2016 09:19AM
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So it's been 2 days now, and i have been driving my mini to work, the thick grease seems to be holding up, car runs a lot smoother since i put the grease to block the air leak and make the car run lean and knock.,, now it does not knock when driving uphill and throttle is very sensitive. i think i can live with just putting grease in it without getting a new throttle shaft.... but let's see in the comming days...i'll observe further.

 Posted: Oct 4, 2016 06:05PM
 Edited:  Oct 4, 2016 06:32PM
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So i did some experiment, to prevent vcuum leak on my worn out HS4 , i put generous amount of thick grease around the throttle shaft as seen in the pic, this will trmporarily block the tiny passageway that produces the leak. And true enough after i drive around immediately i noticed the big difference, car runs a lot smoother now, i step on the gas  abrupty and no more knocking caused by leaning due to leak.  Throttle is more reaponsive. Now im so tempted to buy a new carb, its about time to replace my 39 year old carb,  or perhaps just get a new throttle shaft as what sir malcolm adviced.
https://youtu.be/zMok2y05jNE 

 Posted: Oct 3, 2016 06:07PM
 Edited:  Oct 3, 2016 08:32PM
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Oh you are heaven sent sir Mal,  Joe Curto said i can use green locktite or JB weld if the shaft housing is loose.   I like Joe Curto , he      Gives alternative way to repair carbs. 
Here's the video, watch at 4:30 where he mentioned about the green locktite and jb weld  -----> https://youtu.be/Yeu-t9ojtBc 

i have a new idol now, mr Joe Curto



//youtu.be/dfLecCi0ppI 

 Posted: Oct 3, 2016 04:58PM
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That's not a HS2 carb it is a HS4. Just order a new throttle shaft and 2 butterfly screws. Sometimes by replacing the shaft you can alleviate all the play other times you have to re bush the carb body at that point i would replace the carb or the body if you go that far just get a full rebuild kit. Joe Curto in NY has the parts you need.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Oct 3, 2016 04:18PM
 Edited:  Oct 3, 2016 08:32PM
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Guy, with your expretise, pls tell me if i need to replace my carb, or is ther a way to just replace the loose parts or .. Whats your advice? Thanks
video----->  https://youtu.be/8QGwkz9gbmI


//youtu.be/dfLecCi0ppI

 Posted: Oct 1, 2016 03:32PM
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That picture of the bar and string you have , it would be more accurate if you got it as close to the center of the wheel as you could.
Also pick up a couple of 12 inch wheels and tires they should be able to work with them when aligning.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Oct 1, 2016 10:42AM
 Edited:  Oct 1, 2016 10:44AM
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So for 7th time my mini has been rejected for wheel alignment, i feel their willingness to help but their alignment tool is really too big for 10inch wheel. I was there when they fit it, really there's about 3/4 inch more to retract but the tool can only retract so much. So i gave up.  What i did is to attach a piece of straight wood or an aluminum as shown in the pic and measure the distance , i was off of about 1/2 inch on the right wheel. And i also measure the number of threads on both tie rods, it turned out that the right exceeded with 3 turns outward. Grrrr no wonder it gradually, pulls to the right if i dont hold the steering wheel. 
I did all measurements even, now it handles excellent!! So easy to stir... 
Indeed, experience and mistake is the best teacher, im sure mr Haynes did a lot of mistakes too, to the extent that he even made a book from his past experiences.

 Posted: Sep 29, 2016 07:26AM
 Edited:  Sep 29, 2016 09:43AM
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haha, oh come on you guys, ya'll know i'm from Arizona, and i own a 77 classic mini,Tony Pineda at your service!!

But wait a minute, hmmmm? i see in Sir Steve's profile that he lives in Ramona Ca,..i wonder if steve and spank is one and the same person?? or brothers... but one is a vtec guy and the other one is a purist...ahh heck, nevermind, im just being paranoid again.

and also ,i have been posting videos, proof that i have a mini and proof that iam a wrencher with a dirty hands not just a "money know how" guy. This weekend, i'll be off, i can do videos with me talking in the background, but just bear with my asian accent. i'll be showing my mini part by part as i expalin it, there will be some snides on the side but it's just how i talk, bear with me.

 Posted: Sep 29, 2016 04:58AM
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CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
No chance Steve, Robster/specialist lives in a world of anonyminity.
I thought that was Steve's sense of humour showing!

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Sep 29, 2016 04:55AM
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No chance Steve, Robster/specialist lives in a world of anonyminity.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Sep 28, 2016 07:29PM
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US
Specialist, I would be happy to answer all your questions, but this is not the place; Email me please

Retired manufacturer of VTEC/Mini performance conversion kits

 Posted: Sep 28, 2016 03:40AM
 Edited:  Sep 28, 2016 03:42AM
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CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by specialist
New design
Yeah... what SAlexander wrote. Mini ball joints are as sturdy as any other car, and a Mini weighs a fraction of other cars.

So,
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Moffet
YES! You are over-thinking it and paranoid about it.
Your link between the upper and lower arms cannot work .

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Sep 27, 2016 06:22PM
 Edited:  Sep 27, 2016 08:12PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAlexander
Jeez....You don't know how to do an alignment and you're re-designing your suspension? You have no idea how little you know about it and you're not going to learn it overnight or even in a year. Everything you change will make it worse. Take the advise you are being offered from the members here and pay someone to do it for you, before you ruin your Mini.
Ok sir Steve A. Will follow their advice... Im just really worried  that the ball joint might snap or the ball joint thread might get loose or something , just thought of having an extra harness just in case. 

Anyway, i have a question for you, i know you are the main man who spearheaded the MMW 2016, and the guy who reserved the qualcom stadium for the mini-khana or the obstacle course for the mini event and also the Crown plaza hotel where the participants stayed for 4days. and of course you are the main guy behind the success of the event.  I know there were also a lady and another guy who took care of the advertisement equally awsome individual  and their work is fantabulous.
Since you build vtec minis , id like to know what diameter and gauge of pipe are you using for the vtec mounting frame? 1 3/4 ? or 1 5/8 ?and with .095  or with .120 wall size?? HREW or DOM? i know HREW is so difficult to bend but very durable. And also i wanna ask why are these frame cost $2500 a piece?! It cost more than a used 1275 engine. And what welding method do you use to put them together? Tig? Mig? Arc? Or flex wire? With or without argon?  These are just casual questions, if you wish not to answer them its ok, i understand.

 Posted: Sep 27, 2016 04:38PM
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US
Jeez....You don't know how to do an alignment and you're re-designing your suspension? You have no idea how little you know about it and you're not going to learn it overnight or even in a year. Everything you change will make it worse. Take the advise you are being offered from the members here and pay someone to do it for you, before you ruin your Mini.

Retired manufacturer of VTEC/Mini performance conversion kits

 Posted: Sep 27, 2016 12:51PM
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New design

 Posted: Sep 27, 2016 11:58AM
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CA
YES! You are over-thinking it and paranoid about it.
Your link between the upper and lower arms cannot work (on any car) because the distance between the two ball joints is different than the distance between the arm pivots and/or the lengths of the arms is different. That means distance between the two points where you want to connect is constantly changing. Do this: Jack up the car, letting the wheel hang down. Mark 2 exact spots - one on the upper arm and one on the lower arm. Measure the distance between them. Now put a block under the wheel and lower the weight of the car onto it. Measure the distance again. If you linked the arms together, your link would break, one or the other suspension arm would break or bend, or a ball joint would be forced apart. Then for sure you'd be sliding or cart-wheeling down the highway.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Sep 27, 2016 10:31AM
 Edited:  Sep 27, 2016 11:09AM
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hahaha, that's true sir mal, i justify the wrong just to avoid the 90bucks alignment ,lol ---------------------------------------------------------------- ...Well here, since we are on the suspension thread which i started, i have a proposal, or just something to enhance safety,is there a possibility of putting a connecting arm that connects the upper arm and the lower arm together? it will be connected to a bolt that is welded on both arms,like how the dampers are bolted on. these connecting rods (it looks like a dogbone,with rubber bushings too) will be pivoting as the suspension goes up and down , this will ensure that the upper balljoint and lower ball joint is sandwiched together. because right now,as i see the current design, if the lower ball joint fails at 50mph you will get totalled for sure. the only ones holding the balljoint to the hub are the tiny,tiny fine thread on the hub. i dunno, i just thought about this design for safety reasons. tell me if i am over thinking or being paranoid,or both. i guess nobody will argue when it comes to safety.

 Posted: Sep 27, 2016 10:14AM
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Tony It's possible to do a string alignment but you need to know what your doing and be very precise in your measurments. Can you do that? there's plenty of how to videos on youtube. But really the best way is proper equipment and a guy who knows how to use it! There are two alignment shops up here at the track both use lazer equipment and they are busy all day long doing race cars and road cars. I do a string alignments to get it close then it goes to the alignment shop for final setting. this also gives me a printout of the settings so I have a record of what we set the car to.

Rubber bushings are a problem with all aftermarket vendors as far as I can tell. the quality or composition of the rubber is just not right! I have problems with bushings cracking and falling apart after little more than 6 month's in some cases. Doesn't matter if it's a Jaguar or MG or Mini there all crap!!

Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch

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