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 Changing between track and street camber settings

 Created by: davedalton2
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 Posted: Sep 27, 2016 06:02AM
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CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by CooperTune
Simple solution you need two minis. Steve (CTR)
That's the BEST solution!
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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Sep 27, 2016 04:32AM
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US
Simple solution you need two minis. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Sep 25, 2016 01:52PM
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US
What Alex said. Every adjustment changes every other setting. All of us dual-use guys face the same issue and it is not practical to go back and forth on your alignment settings, even if you knew how many turns to go in every adjustment. Having to run conservative settings, I console myself with not always being competitive, by saying things like "I drove it 1600 miles to the track, slept in it for a week and drove it 1600 miles back home".

Retired manufacturer of VTEC/Mini performance conversion kits

 Posted: Sep 24, 2016 01:29PM
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GB

Adjusting any of the three elements will affect the other two, and all of them are affected by ride height.

Considering it can take several hours to set up right, I'd leave it well alone and either put up with increased tyre wear or decreased track performance (like that's actually an option...).

Swapping between the two ideals is almost certainly not going to be a simple case of counting turns.

 Posted: Sep 24, 2016 12:37PM
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My mini does duel duty between track 20% and street 80%. It has all the usual adjustable bits on the front (hi-lo's, adjustable lower arms, urethane bushings, up-rated tie rods, adjustable shocks, comp rubber cones, 10" A032's). Ideal camber on the track is about 2.5 negative and 0 - 1/16th toe out. The ideal for a street car would probably be in the 1-1.5 negative camber range and the same 0-1/16 toe out. Needless to say, the soft A032's wear the insides out quite quickly at -2.5. Will altering camber with the typical adjustable aftermarket arms affect the toe? I would like to be able to arrive at the track, adjust the lower arms a certain pre determined number of turns and not have to reset the toe. Is this possible or do all the other front end geometry issues like ride height and caster ultimately effect the toe also?