Thanks guys for the responses,i really like to see what people say about each and i can pick what i want or what areas i need them to perform in.

I dont track race,i dont do turns and constant braking,i drive long trips where i dont use the brakes barely ,I cruise around and race others cars and sometimes need to stop while doing pretty high speeds or drsg race type stop lol i know this isnt the car for that but thats what makes it fun to me and a challenge.Ill cruise around for hours then go to a few local car meets and maybe do a few pulls beside other cars or try and do a light to light race lol

Also,i will not set the car up to where i cant use 10" wheels as i really love the look of them and my drag tires are for a 10" wheel.

As you say you want 10" wheels look at the aluminum Cooper 'S wheel.
//www.minimania.com/part/21A1286MW/Cooper-S-Wheel-10-X-45-In-Aluminum-Old-English-White
It was designed to fit over the 8.4" disk setup.
I went with the minispares 4-pot calipers (replacing the 7.5 cooper 'S ones on my Cooper 'S). I also bought the spacer kit for vented disks, I bought a set of disks and had them turned down to 7.5".  So if you go with the 4 pot check that the wheel(s) you plan to use will fit and work with them.  I was using 12" wheels at the time. 

Seems everyone has a favorite set up. I have set up a few front sub frames. I have done all but the Ford conversion. I would not use anything not designed and built for a classic mini. I did my own aftermarket kit several years back. Using drum hubs, my own adapter, large CVs, 8.4 drives with cut down 8.4 disc. Dynalite two piston Wilwood caliper. Each caliper required almost an hour of machine work. Had a guy build a great slide show and post it here on the board. Don took one look and deleted the slide show. It covered each step of design to completed product. It does not matter as Wilwood refused to supply me 1000 calipers machined to my spec. It seems there are to many lawyers in the world. Ten years later the brakes are still in service and recently he called for a pad part number. 

As for vintage racing and mini brakes, I only recall using mine twice. Once at Mid Ohio in the rain to avoid Kermit's brother and again to avoid Kermit ( which I failed to do ) also at Mid Ohio. Steve (CTR)

Standard Cooper S brakes with a premium pad and racing brake fluid.   Also,  attention must be paid to getting the bias right i.e. no rear brake lock up.   This is the set up on nearly all vintage racers as the rules dictate in most vintage racing organizations.  If there are problems it's generally the driver followed by bad components.  Of course if cool factor is what you are looking for hey, go with the 4 pucks out of aluminum.  

p.s. keep in mind that the top guys in vintage racing have 120 HP + with top speeds north of 110.  Lap after lap after lap. 

First step; change out the pads. EBC green works ok for street...not great though for the heavier VTeC conversions. try the red or yellow pads. (they will get your wheels covered in brake dust quickly.) Second step, 8.4" rotors reduced to 7.9" with KAD 4 pots or maybe MiniSport 4-pots. (I have not used the latter myself, but have not heard bad reports). this setup will not fit in some cast wheel designs,(Mamba, etc). I used to run the green pads in my KADs until I got them overheated on a fast track and lost all braking coming into a corner. If you are going to do Track events, go up at least a notch on the EBC compounds or try the Porterfields or Mintexs. As mentioned, racing pads do not grip well or at all when cold and would be dangerous in a cold brake panic stop. from there, it gets expensive....you can get up to 8.6" rotors inside 10" modular(spun) wheels, but also need to go with the lower profile KAD 6-pot calipers....I know this because I have a set. The 6 pots are not recommended by KAD for prolonged street driving, as they have no dust seals on the pistons, plus they are designed for the thicker vented rotors, so must use spacers behind the pads when using non-vented rotors. I found this out after buying mine, which is why I am not using them. finally, I would not recommend the vented Metro rotors, which typically run on the metro hubs. there are several problems associated with the different geometry, wheel offsets, and large un-sprung weight increase. I would not recommend the Joltfreak conversion either, for some of the same reasons +.

i prefer the vented and slotted rotor with 4 piston alloy caliper. But i think the wheel will portrude (out) too much,because it will compensate with the thickness of the rotor. i dunno, that's how i see it. i maybe wrong,but in so far as braking is concern, and aesthetics they are awsome. I'll get them,as soon as i get enough money.

If you already have S discs, simply buy a set of alloy 4-pots, Mintex 1144 pads, and if you want to, go ahead and put grooved discs on it. That's a whole lot of stopping right there. 


If you need vented, you need to pull it all apart anyway, but machine down the discs, buy the 4-pots with the spacer, and mount away.

Green stuff are so erratic in their quality, I personally will never use them again. Mintex all the way. 

//www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=10387

Or the MK I Ford Fiesta conversion.

On our race car, we are running the Mini Spares 4 pots with 7.5" rotors and Porterfield pads, these pads would likely be overkill for street driving, but haul the car down from over 100mph at the end of the long front straight at the Ridge every time, with no fade, and great feel in the pedal.
I would put them in any street car, in the grand scheme of things, they are not all that expensive. Brakes are important.

We also have a set of 4 pots in the MG1100 race car, and even with the extra weight, they work very well.

Good / better spec pads always help.
But there are Two caviaots to that change.

1 - Upgraded spec pads are always dirtier... messier dust making pads. ( might care or not care)

2 - Performance pads only REALLY Work better when warmed up.... Cold performance brakes are like bricks  = dont bite= but once warmed up= their properties come into play and bite REALLY Well.    Also can be sqealy and loud under cold or wet use.


EBC Greenstuffs = I LOVE.   For how  and when i want to go sporty,. Yes they're very dirty =  and yes they chatter a tiny bit when cold or damp.    They stop like normal street pads when cold... But = take that mountain rip = and considerably less foot pressure required to bite down on the rotors.  You will for SURE get different opinions on Greenstufs.

New pads = Less than 100$.
  New minisport Calipers + rotors =    +$400  -  500 Basically


I personally have a friend with Minisport 7.9's in a 10 inch wheel... No EBC Greenstuff pads available for that combo because they're unique. While they work fine day to day driving ( he dailiy drives his car ) and i have driven it once or twice... i have never had a mountain rip in it to really feel if they are better in  perforance conditons.  The anodizing is wearing badly from checmical wheel cleaners and road use.

 I approve of and highly like my 7.5 setup with EBC Greens ( get it - Ebc Greenstuff)  for what i run.

All this is IMHO.

You might want to check out Joltfreak's 10 inch Honda disc brake conversion just for the heck of it.  
//joltfreak.tripod.com/id1.html

My car started life as a 85 1000 E with drums. The first upgrade was installing the 7.5 Cooper S brakes off my 67. These were fitted with std. single line master cyl. With son Alex coming of age I moved up again. We now have the same Cooper S 7.5 brakes but installed the late cross over torque tube and one part master/booster. I would consider the 8.4 brakes but that would stop the use of 10 inch wheels. There are other options such as four piston calipers for 7.5 s. Also some cut down 8.4 disc to 7.9 and use a special four piston caliper. Alloy calipers are not cheap but are an improvement. I just replaced a set of pads on my car and it stops much better. Sorry the ones that came off had been on for years and the ones I replaced with were lighly used so I'm not sure of make. Waiting to see if they are a set removed due to dust. My car is plenty fast and I drive it like I mean it. I have always been a late brake driver. Be sure you have the correct wheel cyls. to match front brakes. I don't do full on panic stops but those who ride with me think all stops are panic stops. You can tell by the way they push on the floor board. Best brakes I ever had were 11 inch disc with Dyna lite two Wilwood four pots, required 13 s .  Steve (CTR)

My car is an 88' and as some know converted to Vtec.It is turbod and starting to get faster and im thinking soon i may need to upgrade the brakes or upgrsde some part of the system.Nothing fancy is on it,im guessing stock stuff for this year car? Ill have a look to try to identify exactly what they are. I run 10" wheels on the car and will not be changing to a larger wheel.I love the 10" look.

With that said running the 7.5" brakes ...

Could i upgrade pads? I seen some fancy alloy calipers from mini spares and KAD etc and never really looked into them.Id prefer a reasonable priced decent set up for the future.

What have you guys ran/had luck with? Id hate to spend good money on a set up and not benefit much or just be more or less for looks not performance.