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Posted:
Feb 5, 2017
05:51PM
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I think the time for f$%ting around is well past.... You've blown more money than you'd would have spent on half a dozen tuneups.
You need instrumentation to tell you what is failing.
If its breaking down on the driveway you don't need a dyno, just some simple engine analysis instrumentation... When it stutters, is it a lean or rich miss?... or is the ignition breaking down???? Time to find out.
I spent six months of randomly sitting beside the road (sometimes in the middle of it). The car (Mk 1 Golf) would fail to suddenly cut out but then think better of it after a few minutes and off we'd go. It took the technician about ten minutes to identify the fuel pump relay the intermittently went open circuit...
Cheers, Ian
You need instrumentation to tell you what is failing.
If its breaking down on the driveway you don't need a dyno, just some simple engine analysis instrumentation... When it stutters, is it a lean or rich miss?... or is the ignition breaking down???? Time to find out.
I spent six months of randomly sitting beside the road (sometimes in the middle of it). The car (Mk 1 Golf) would fail to suddenly cut out but then think better of it after a few minutes and off we'd go. It took the technician about ten minutes to identify the fuel pump relay the intermittently went open circuit...
Cheers, Ian
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new dizzy or used new to the car?
did you ever put a new fuel pump in the car?
there's always the odd chance that the fuel float is out of spec even though it's a replacement carb, and the
needle is either getting stuck, or the gap at the float isn't enough.
did you ever put a new fuel pump in the car?
there's always the odd chance that the fuel float is out of spec even though it's a replacement carb, and the
needle is either getting stuck, or the gap at the float isn't enough.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minimike1
Does it appear to be a misfire?
I"m now thinking your dizzy shaft might be worn and running excentrically.
Dizzy weights stuck?
I"m now thinking your dizzy shaft might be worn and running excentrically.
Dizzy weights stuck?
I've tried most other things. see me me thread for a more concise rundown.
thanks!
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Does it appear to be a misfire?
I"m now thinking your dizzy shaft might be worn and running excentrically.
Dizzy weights stuck?
I"m now thinking your dizzy shaft might be worn and running excentrically.
Dizzy weights stuck?
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Another thing you need to watch out for is dieseling or engine run on.
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The replacement (old) grungy carb certainly made it run better. I drove 30 miles at 60mph with no problem. that was at 3800rpm. but when I did push it up to 65-70 4000+rpm , it would do the sputter thing again.
the good news is I can now travel at 60mph. but something's still not right. Maybe more carb tuning? it's raining now. can't work on it anymore today. I'll evaluate everything and start a new concise thread.
It feels like this carb just gets better fuel economy. I'm going to see if i can get it to sputter again in the driveway- cut the ignition and see if the float bowl is dry.
the good news is I can now travel at 60mph. but something's still not right. Maybe more carb tuning? it's raining now. can't work on it anymore today. I'll evaluate everything and start a new concise thread.
It feels like this carb just gets better fuel economy. I'm going to see if i can get it to sputter again in the driveway- cut the ignition and see if the float bowl is dry.
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Easy to miss Doug but i just suggested that on page 5 and MLM has agreed to if the carb swap does not work out.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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If threads like these goes 6 to 8 pages and still no resolution, more than likely, the owner is the problem, not the car.
Edited:
Feb 4, 2017
07:42AM
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Sorry, I knew checking the fuel tank for trapped vacuum was mentioned a long time ago. I was not aware that you had tried removing the gas cap and taking the car on a long, high-speed drive to exclude that as a possibility. Again, sorry for mentioning it in my last post.
EDIT: As you mentioned, the thread is quite long and old now. If the carb swap does not permanently fix the problem, may I suggest you start a new thread on the subject where your first post or two lists as bullet/lines all that you have considered and what you found. It does take quite a while to read through this thread.
EDIT: As you mentioned, the thread is quite long and old now. If the carb swap does not permanently fix the problem, may I suggest you start a new thread on the subject where your first post or two lists as bullet/lines all that you have considered and what you found. It does take quite a while to read through this thread.
Doug L.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minimike1
Maybe you missed my post above yours, and i"m not saying I'm right, but I've not seen that you've tried it.
Stop swapping bits.
take the gas cap off and try your drive and see if you get better fuel flow. I'm thinking you're getting a vacuum situation in the tank due to a bad tank vent.
Cost to you to try this suggestion= 0
Stop swapping bits.
take the gas cap off and try your drive and see if you get better fuel flow. I'm thinking you're getting a vacuum situation in the tank due to a bad tank vent.
Cost to you to try this suggestion= 0
thank you for the input tho!
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Maybe you missed my post above yours, and i"m not saying I'm right, but I've not seen that you've tried it.
Stop swapping bits.
take the gas cap off and try your drive and see if you get better fuel flow. I'm thinking you're getting a vacuum situation in the tank due to a bad tank vent.
Cost to you to try this suggestion= 0
Stop swapping bits.
take the gas cap off and try your drive and see if you get better fuel flow. I'm thinking you're getting a vacuum situation in the tank due to a bad tank vent.
Cost to you to try this suggestion= 0
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not getting too excited yet, but i tried another carb and was able to run the engine at high rpm for 2 minutes. that's a record.
I've got a bad master brake cylinder so can't test drive today. hopefully tomorrow.
fingers crossed.
I've got a bad master brake cylinder so can't test drive today. hopefully tomorrow.
fingers crossed.
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You've gone through a lot of trial and error diagnostics.
the mantra start with the simple stuff is usually a good place to start. did you try a replacement fuel pump yet?
I had similar issue a while back with a car of a friend. I think he sold the car, not because of that. Did you ever try running the car with your gas cap off to test and see if your cap was not letting air into the tank?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by velopackrat
I failed to find the contact information for the Austin guy. He had two Mk1 S cars, one was Aussie if I recall. Maybe Playle knows him?
Aside from that, I have a question: when you tested in the driveway, where you under the hood or in the driver's seat? I ask this because watching a full fuel filter when the missing/cutting out occurs is almost as good as installing a temporary inline fuel pressure gauge like the Honda dude suggested. If the pressure drops, the issue is upstream. If it doesn't drop, then I would suspect the needle and seat has closed up. Would a restricted vent tube allow vacuum to keep the needle sucked up against the seat? Or manifold vacuum? I don't know. The SU experts can shoot down my theory, no offense will be taken.
The other question I had is in regard to the fuel pipe under the car. You replaced all fuel lines, I recall that. Have you visually checked the hard line along it's path under the car? Minis tend to get "rallied" a lot... a crimp in the hard line would restrict volume.
Aside from that, I have a question: when you tested in the driveway, where you under the hood or in the driver's seat? I ask this because watching a full fuel filter when the missing/cutting out occurs is almost as good as installing a temporary inline fuel pressure gauge like the Honda dude suggested. If the pressure drops, the issue is upstream. If it doesn't drop, then I would suspect the needle and seat has closed up. Would a restricted vent tube allow vacuum to keep the needle sucked up against the seat? Or manifold vacuum? I don't know. The SU experts can shoot down my theory, no offense will be taken.
The other question I had is in regard to the fuel pipe under the car. You replaced all fuel lines, I recall that. Have you visually checked the hard line along it's path under the car? Minis tend to get "rallied" a lot... a crimp in the hard line would restrict volume.
Also hoping to get the loaner carb tonight and test it this weekend. I'll let you fellas know.
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Thanks for all the help fellas. I'm going to try a different carb this weekend . Also. I'll try to post a video or two.
we'll figure this out!!!! sorry so brief. working late today.
we'll figure this out!!!! sorry so brief. working late today.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minerva
Reading this thread is like binge-watching House of Cards on Netflix....except I actually care about this outcome. Can't wait to see what the actual problem was. :)
+1 sir minerva.
5 pages and counting....but im satisfied because i have contributed at least 5-6 advices throughout this entire thread,i have imparted my wisdom to this morning guy , it's up to him to follow my advice or not... now let's get some soda and popcorn while patiently waiting for the final verdict. Fuel? or Electrical?......stay tuned!!!!!
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Reading this thread is like binge-watching House of Cards on Netflix....except I actually care about this outcome. Can't wait to see what the actual problem was. :)
If it's not Scottish....it's crap! (Cry of the Mini Tartan Owners' Clan)
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Looking back at some pics of MLM's carb set up on page 2 it is hard to tell whether he has the lines connected correctly, the lower one is the fuel line the upper one is the vent. Check to see if the vent line on the carb is blocked MLM (if you have not done so already).
As this thread is so long and some of us may be repeating ourselves and you may be answering the same questions more than once or twice it may be helpful if you did a line item post of what you have done so far so we can refer back to it without having to look through 5 pages and 120 plus posts.
As this thread is so long and some of us may be repeating ourselves and you may be answering the same questions more than once or twice it may be helpful if you did a line item post of what you have done so far so we can refer back to it without having to look through 5 pages and 120 plus posts.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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That would likely be Jim Davidson. His email (as found on the MOT - Mini Owners of Texas) forum:
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Velopackrat's post brought to mind venting of the carb fuel bowl as another possibility. It should be ( unless you hae a return line to the tank) vented to the air, with a long tube leading safely away from manifolds etc, down below the car in the event of overflow.
It must be something overlooked that appears right but isn't really.
It must be something overlooked that appears right but isn't really.
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
