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 Posted: Nov 28, 2016 06:48AM
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Member since:Jun 18, 2014
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OK,  I finally got the driver's door (right side) to fit. I adjusted the striker plate outwards about 1/16th an inch.  I could not adjust it out before due to one of the screws busted off and preventing it from moving.  So, I ground it down with a Dremel tool and redrilled the hole slightly off of the original hole because the busted screw was too hard to drill and tap.  Then I got a tap and re=threaded the screw hole, ovalized the three countersunk screw holes and installed the three screws and biased the plate toward the outside.  Then I lifted the door and tightened up the hinges.  It closes with low to moderate force now.  The door sticks out slightly more than 1/16 an inch at the back but I can live with it.  Now onto the other door.
Dogscarf

 Posted: Nov 27, 2016 04:11PM
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CA
I am working on fettling the doors on my mk1 Countryman project, I found that if I had a washer and a lockwasher on the phillips-head screws that go on the leading edge of the door, they cause the door to bind, with just a thin lock washer, all is good. They are super finicky!

Sean Windrum

1996 MGF VVC
1970 1275 GT Racer
66 Austin Countryman
63 997 Cooper (Under Construction)
63 MG 1100

 

 Posted: Nov 27, 2016 04:08PM
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MKI and II door hinges will always wear and have play in them, just the way they are, very small pin area to take the load. The importance of adjusting them correctly is apparent. The plastic guide and channel on the door shut must be adjusted correctly to prevent excessive load and wear on the hinge. you will always get some up and down movement on the door if you lift it even with new hinges, If you try to pre-load them against one another they will wear even faster so keep them parallel and accept some movement.

Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch

 Posted: Nov 27, 2016 08:00AM
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Thanks Malsal, I actually did use a block of wood and a BFH on the edging where the weatherstrip attached.  I also used channel locks to pry it inward.  My car is freshly painted so I cannot move metal much.  I will check clearances again.

 Posted: Nov 27, 2016 07:52AM
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Remove the weather strip and check the clearance all around the door frame to make sure it is equal distance from the body to the door. The main place i have found all Mini's to bind and the distance to be smaller is around where the window frame meets the door skin. You can "adjust" the clearance on the body side with a hammer and a block of wood, sounds drastic but this is normal practice.
It would be a lot of work but MK III hinges can be installed on older doors but you would need aftermarket fake hinges to cover up the mounting holes of the old hinges or body work and paint of course.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Nov 27, 2016 07:23AM
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Fellow Minioids,  I am having a difficult time adjusting my new door hinges on my 1968 Cooper S MkII.  OK, my Mini door was closing just fine until I removed the top hinge and positioned it slightly forward and up in effect to lift the door 1/8". Now, the left side door binds when I try to close the door.  Also, when I shut the door with the weatherstrip I have to slam it to close it.  I did what others have done and slit the weatherstrip with a razor so that it squishes to lower profile.  The weatherstrip is a narrow MS type.  Yes, the hinges are on the correct side.  The right side closes fine without the weatherstrip.  I actually hate external hinges as this is my third Mini in 35 years and I have only found them to last a year of two before I have to re-bush or get new ones.  The new ones on my car now have zero miles on them and the left side is already worn and loose.  WTF!

Dogscarf

1968 Morris Cooper S
1963 Austin Healey 3000
1960 Austin Healey 3000
1966 427 Cobra replica