Harsh ride
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
May 10, 2017 03:51PM | trevor6058 | Edited: May 10, 2017 04:01PM |
May 9, 2017 03:25AM | CooperTune | |
May 8, 2017 10:23PM | Derramax | Edited: May 8, 2017 10:30PM |
Apr 17, 2017 12:11PM | h_lankford | |
Apr 17, 2017 10:00AM | mur | |
Apr 17, 2017 09:18AM | Dan Moffet | |
Apr 16, 2017 02:40AM | Alex | |
Apr 15, 2017 12:37PM | Derramax | Edited: Apr 15, 2017 10:30PM |
Apr 15, 2017 10:10AM | Dan Moffet | |
Apr 15, 2017 09:37AM | Derramax | |
Apr 6, 2017 08:43AM | specialist | Edited: Apr 6, 2017 09:17AM |
Apr 6, 2017 08:00AM | Derramax | Edited: Apr 6, 2017 08:02AM |
Apr 6, 2017 07:52AM | Alex | |
Apr 6, 2017 07:33AM | Derramax | |
Jan 16, 2017 01:44AM | Alex | |
Jan 14, 2017 02:09PM | jeg | Edited: Jan 14, 2017 02:30PM |
Jan 14, 2017 11:02AM | specialist | |
Jan 14, 2017 09:09AM | h_lankford | |
Jan 14, 2017 08:59AM | Dan Moffet | Edited: Jan 14, 2017 02:59PM |
Jan 14, 2017 08:50AM | Derramax | Edited: Jan 14, 2017 08:52AM |
Total posts: 331
Last post: Sep 7, 2023 Member since:Oct 22, 2004
|
Cars in Garage: 1
Photos: 1 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
Total posts: 4134
Last post: Oct 13, 2020 Member since:Oct 8, 2011
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
Total posts: 58
Last post: Dec 22, 2022 Member since:Jul 19, 2016
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Total posts: 2036
Last post: Mar 27, 2024 Member since:Aug 29, 2001
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
I appreciate both ends of the spectrum, which does not extend to trolls.
Total posts: 5840
Last post: Nov 1, 2019 Member since:Nov 12, 1999
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
Total posts: 9528
Last post: Mar 27, 2024 Member since:Aug 14, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
I only did mine once, a long time ago. But I did use a cone compressor. I was thinking about how others claim to be able to dismantle the front suspension without a cone compressor by taking the upper arm out. I agree absolutely about the new Smooth-a-Ride cones - I could barely get them in with nothing else in the way. Tighter than a bankers....
Side note: When I bought the full Smooth-a-Ride kit, it included knuckle joints, which I had recently previously replaced. I discovered that the adjustable trumpets with the kit required a knuckle with a larger diameter stub. I had to use the ones with the kit.
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
Total posts: 10232
Last post: Mar 26, 2024 Member since:Mar 24, 1999
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
Dan, you HAVE to take the top arm out, or you can't get the springs in and out.
Maybe a really badly compressed cone will come out, but without chopping lumps off a new Smootharide cone (and who would be stupic enough to do that) there is no way it will go in.
Total posts: 58
Last post: Dec 22, 2022 Member since:Jul 19, 2016
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
You ask about ride height: Mostly people lower their car for the cool look. Unless you do considerable modification of the front suspension components, just lowering the ride height messes up the alignment geometry. You need to add adjustable parts to correct for it. A lowered front ride also affects the geometry of the driveshafts.
When you replace the springs, you will need a cone compressor for the front, maybe not to get the old cones out, but almost definitely to get the new ones in. The proper tool makes the job easier and safer. Some people take out the upper suspension arm, which can be time consuming. On the other hand, the pivot shafts and bearings for the upper arms may also be due for replacement. In any case, knuckle joints are inexpensive, so, yes do them, front and back.
Total posts: 9528
Last post: Mar 27, 2024 Member since:Aug 14, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
You ask about ride height: Mostly people lower their car for the cool look. Unless you do considerable modification of the front suspension components, just lowering the ride height messes up the alignment geometry. You need to add adjustable parts to correct for it. A lowered front ride also affects the geometry of the driveshafts.
When you replace the springs, you will need a cone compressor for the front, maybe not to get the old cones out, but almost definitely to get the new ones in. The proper tool makes the job easier and safer. Some people take out the upper suspension arm, which can be time consuming. On the other hand, the pivot shafts and bearings for the upper arms may also be due for replacement. In any case, knuckle joints are inexpensive, so, yes do them, front and back.
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
Total posts: 58
Last post: Dec 22, 2022 Member since:Jul 19, 2016
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Total posts: 1188
Last post: Aug 13, 2020 Member since:Aug 9, 2016
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
...and oh, you need to use an oversized rebound rubber stopper thingy to prevent the spring from falling off when you jack the car up. unless you jack the car in the lower side panel like what some guy i know does.
Total posts: 58
Last post: Dec 22, 2022 Member since:Jul 19, 2016
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Total posts: 10232
Last post: Mar 26, 2024 Member since:Mar 24, 1999
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
I've done many tens of thousands of miles on red springs, and would recommend them for comfort but not sportiness.
Based on my experience, I'd never fit the blue ones as there's load hauling limitations and body roll issues with the red ones which are harder.
Somewhere, if you do the right search, I wrote an essay about different springing mediums in the real world with direct comparisons possible.
Total posts: 58
Last post: Dec 22, 2022 Member since:Jul 19, 2016
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Total posts: 10232
Last post: Mar 26, 2024 Member since:Mar 24, 1999
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
It could be an optical delusion, but the photo you posted appears to show an area of tyre rubbing on the wheelarch between 12-2 o'clock.
Jack the back up half an inch and see if the ride gets better.
If it does, you'll need to consider narrower wheels or getting the rear arches tubbed if you wish to retain the slammed stance.
Oh, and to reiterate, Specialist isn't.
Ignore pretty much all of his ill-informed and often dangerous ramblings.
Total posts: 7075
Last post: Nov 5, 2019 Member since:Apr 25, 2000
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
I suggest you do some reading, check your Haynes and ignore the troll...
SUSPENSION - Basic set-up method
Many more articles in Calver's Corner, as well as our host's Articles pages:
Articles
Shock Absorbers (dampers), Basic Knowledge
Without seeing the relationship between front and rear, my guess is that it's your rubber-band tires. A switch to 12" (165/60/12 tires) if you've got big 8.4" disk brakes up front and don't want to change them, or to 10" wheels if 7.5" disks (or drums) will no doubt be more compliant.
For reference, these (mine) are 12", summer and winter setups. I trimmed my bumpstops (lower than original-height car) to allow for extra suspension travel.
The peasants are revolting...
"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance
Total posts: 1188
Last post: Aug 13, 2020 Member since:Aug 9, 2016
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Total posts: 2036
Last post: Mar 27, 2024 Member since:Aug 29, 2001
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
Total posts: 9528
Last post: Mar 27, 2024 Member since:Aug 14, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
The suspension height is usually measured between the top of the tire and the apex of the wheel arch. On original Minis without plastic wheel arches the exact measurement was sometimes done from the centre of the wheel hub to the apex of the arch. At one shop (about a half century ago ) the guy adjusting my hydrolastic had a welding rod with a short "L" at the bottom to go into the hub centre and a piece of tape to mark the position for the wheel arch.
A rule of thumb (fingers actually) is to have 2-3 fingers clearance at the front and slightly more at the back - the rear is supposed to be a bit higher. Of curse it all depends on the size of your fingers. The car in your avatar looks low.
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
Total posts: 58
Last post: Dec 22, 2022 Member since:Jul 19, 2016
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |