Things one should or should not do.
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Jan 28, 2017 10:52AM | specialist | Edited: Jan 28, 2017 11:03AM |
Jan 28, 2017 05:54AM | nkerr | Edited: Feb 7, 2017 03:51AM |
Jan 28, 2017 05:25AM | turbodave | |
Jan 28, 2017 03:21AM | specialist | Edited: Jan 28, 2017 03:22AM |
Jan 28, 2017 12:43AM | Alex | |
Jan 27, 2017 05:25PM | turbodave | |
Jan 27, 2017 05:14PM | specialist | |
Jan 27, 2017 05:11PM | croc7 | |
Jan 27, 2017 05:00PM | Abelclasico | |
Jan 27, 2017 04:30PM | spectre1275 | |
Jan 27, 2017 02:30PM | Spank | |
Jan 27, 2017 02:25PM | Dan Moffet | |
Jan 27, 2017 01:59PM | specialist | |
Jan 27, 2017 01:49PM | miniguydotcom | Edited: Jan 27, 2017 01:50PM |
Jan 27, 2017 01:16PM | specialist | Edited: Jan 27, 2017 02:09PM |
Jan 27, 2017 01:15PM | onetim | |
Jan 27, 2017 12:52PM | Dr Mini | |
Jan 27, 2017 12:38PM | onetim | |
Jan 27, 2017 12:34PM | Dan Moffet | Edited: Jan 27, 2017 12:35PM |
Jan 27, 2017 12:25PM | Whee |
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a few people writing in here about shearing off a rack pinion while driving (and total loss of steering) drilled that one into me
2) when re-installing a fuel tank, leave some extra hose length so you could shift it out of the way to access the LH damper upper nut, some day, just in case (make sure the excess is tucked well out of the way of luggage, and isn't kinked)
3) If an engine has been running well for some time, and it suddenly begins to run rough DON'T TOUCH THE CARBURETOR(S) adjustment, because that is the least likely cause. Instead check the valve clearances, check the timing, check the condition of the condenser and points, check the fuel supply, fuel filter, carb float bowl cleanliness and the float check valve sticking. Only after having confirmed all of those much more likely things, then, maybe, suspect the carb adjustment. A well adjusted one(s) in good health shouldn't require maintenance for 30~60k miles, enough to wear the throttle shaft.
4) The dashpot oil almost never needs oil (maybe once a year, or two years, maybe). The level is below the top of the dashpot (inner cylinder), not above that, and filling it above that only means that the excess will leak down while running and you'll fool yourself into thinking it is leaking out daily. An easy way to check is to unscrew and lift out the damper and confirm it has some drag coming out and going in (that's the oil doing that).
5) if re-assembling the brake & clutch pedal assembly, to replace the cotter pins, take the driver seat out and push the pedal upwards to lock the clevis pin in position - this allows easy access and the the ability to work the split pin as required. - thanks Alex!
6) when replacing the rear brake cylinders never use the "E" clip that comes with the new ones. Instead, buy a "C" clip and wave washer, like the original factory used. Easy to fit, easy to use. Also, available from Grainger in stainless steel: Grainger #5DA81 = 11/16" external retaining ring, stainless steel. Grainger #6ZA12 = 11/16" wave washer (3 wave), stainless steel.
7) when refitting the cylinder head use a black Payen head gasket, much better quality than the silver ones sold by many of the usual suppliers
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And I also prefer to use a socket cap screw and a unlock nut so I can wail down on it and have confidence it won't back out...
It's been fun, but this place is done. I have no hatred, and appreciate the good times. But this place now belongs to Tony and his pink mini.
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Always add the prefix 'isn't-a-' to anything written by the troll.
Never believe a word he types (can't speak, as hasn't the balls to turn up at a show).
With regard to the fuel cap advice, I always leave it on the fuel pump - I don't like putting it on the roof in case it scratches or stains, and I don't want a pocket stincking of petrol.
Having a locking cap means I can't drive off without replacing it as the ignition key is in the cap...
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Dont listen to or waste time reading anything this f$&@ing "specialist" idiot has to say, because, well, he is an egotistical idiot who couldn't find his arse with both hands.
It's been fun, but this place is done. I have no hatred, and appreciate the good times. But this place now belongs to Tony and his pink mini.
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Don't take it through an automatic car was - bought my first mini in NZ, and promptly went to an autowash to clean it up. Spent the entire 10 second ride trying to stem the deluge of water coming through the door seals, and laughing hysterically!
Right hand drive in the US - don't parallel park against the curb where a car can park behind you - absolutely no way to see traffic when you're trying to pull out.
I do like the comment about objects in the mirror not being as fuzzy as they appear. So true.
Finally, with our upright driving position and vertical windshield, I've found a fresnal lens to be sooooo worth the price at stoplights, so I'm not hunching over so I can see the light change. Here's an example: //www.lightinsight.com/
Scott
New Zealand - The only place where a kiwi can mean a fruit, bird or mini owner...
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Never start a "frame off restoration" on your mini. Keep it running and driving as much as possible and for as long as possible while you work on it.
I have owned several minis that I bought as stalled projects. It really does pain me to hear of someone who is taking apart their mini any more than absolutely necessary.
Taking a panel down to bare metal is not always the best thing to do prior to repainting it.
New is not always better. Factory Original isn't, either.
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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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Folks will be stopping you to ask you about it, tell you about the one they had in college, or the one that they used to race, or to gush about how they have always wanted one. Or the one they have in their garage, or their neighbor has, or...
Be prepared to have people taking photos/videos of themselves with your Mini, even while driving alongside you.
At car shows, many owners put signs on their car: "Look, but don't touch!"
Me? I put a sign on mine that says, "Feel free to sit in it and make engine noises!"
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At speed, objects in the rear view mirror are not as fuzzy as they appear.
When changing front rubber springs, leave a message to the future inside.
sorry I like this thread
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"Retired: No Job, No Money, Wife and I! Will travel anywhere for Minis"
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I did that at the cottage. No-one else around and no phone. Panic was rising when I realized the engine would not start. I managed to dig out a very old 6V charger my grandfather had made using a 120V motor and a 6V generator, probably last used in the 1950's. It managed to push in just enough juice that the engine did start.
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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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