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 Posted: Mar 18, 2017 05:00AM
Total posts: 4134
Last post: Oct 13, 2020
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US
I'm currently working on a mid 80s Mayfair, It was dolled up back in 2000 and shipped over. The buyer and current owner had it converted to LHD, wood dash with tach and 5.5 alloy wheels. His two sons took turns, one drove it to high school, then the other son drove it though high school then to college as well. Once done with school the car has lingered in my shop for years. Due to health issues in the family we put the car up for sale last year. Being a nice little 998 able to run 70 mph all day and give great MPG we set a price. No offers met our price. One buyer ask for a complete survey of the car and if it met expectations he would meet our price. The car is very sound boot and floors, sills and in general. Suspension and brakes were fine but springs needed replacing. Normal suspension rubber issues. The compression test showed #4 cyl. at 70 psi. Needless to say this killed the deal. The owners not wishing to sell a lemon have had me go though the survey list and correct issues. Like any can of worms we were in for a ride. 

Power unit was pulled, #4 cyl. showed .008 wear the balance were closer to .003. Having a collection of 998s I stripped four engines and used the best A+ block with .0015 wear which allowed honing and fitting new rings. I picked the best std./ std. crank and the best set of rods and pistons. New cam and lifters, oil pump, cam bearings, rod and main bearings. Iwis chain new timing gears and tensioner. Block was honed, cleaned, cam bearings, brass freeze plugs and surfaced.  Cyl. head got the full lead free treatment. New guides, hard exhaust seats and all new valves, springs, caps and keepers the last generation of 998 lead free multi groove valves, matching bits, rocker shaft, and seals of course. 

The tranny a DAM 5626 must have been under a 1275 at some point in it's life. As well as it drove and (I did take it out once in awhile) The tranny was a mess. Like so many 5626 I do, the double ball bearing ( third motion shaft bearing ) had broken ball spacers. Parts list goes something like this. All new bearings, main shaft, lay shaft, synchros, shift forks, detent springs, diff. cage, spider gears and diff. pin. Diff. side covers rebushed and align honed to size. A center oil pick up tube and the 3.2 CWP were installed with new gaskets and seals. I tried to buy a good DAM 5626 core but the last three I have picked up were to bad to use the case and the parts were worse. The tranny repair did mess up the budget. Flywheel was surfaced and new pressure plate and clutch disc, TO bearing, plunger, arm, push rod, slave, hose, hard pipe and master. Rod change shifter was rebuilt with new bushings and rod eye. 

The front sub frame had a broken lower front dog bone mount. The bulkhead dog bone mount was about to fall off. A freshly powder coated front sub frame was sourced and built up. New MSC rubber springs, HI Los, on car adjustable lower arms and tie rods. Upper arms rebuild, hubs cleaned glass beaded and new Timken bearings, ball joints. CVs and pots were stripped cleaned greased and booted. Axles were cleaned glass beaded checked for straight, painted and assembled. The 8.4 disc were replaced with new and the calipers were kitted and new SS pistons installed. Steering rack was rebuilt with new non drivers side bush replaced and boots and ends replaced.  Dust shields, stainless hoses and hard pipe installed. 

The rear sub frame did not come out, but rear swing arms had been done since coming over and were tight. Backing plates were removed cleaned, glass beaded and painted. New adjusters, wheel cyls., brake shoes, springs and spaced drums. Rear ball bearings and the rear should be fine. The brake master has been replaced and we bled the brakes yesterday. I plan to put on ground today and align suspension. 

The exhaust and intake manifold, carb. and exhaust system all received attention and look nearly factory fresh. The engine compartment was cleaned sanded and painted. The bulk head dog bone issue was addressed. 

I have installed a new ignition switch and have a couple of electrical issued to deal with. New head light switch, choke cable, hoses and I'm ready to see if it gets better MPG on 4 cyls rather than three. I also wonder if it will be faster. 

Removing the slip covers reveal some tired seats. The plan is to order a new interior and have some scuttle minor rust issues taken care of. If we go that route it's for sure the car will be a nearly needs nothing car. I do want to get new 165/12s also. I'm thinking we can buy tires and enjoy the car as is. 

If someone is looking for a nice mini with a good idea of current condition get in touch with me. We know we are over budget but we can answer all questions honestly. 

My body and paint guy passed away last November. We were ready to address the body issues but all that has changed. If a very sound shell and mechanical completely fresh car is something you would be interested in get in touch. 

PS if speed is your thing I have Metro power unit cores and we can go crazy. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Mar 15, 2017 07:40AM
Total posts: 10
Last post: Mar 24, 2017
Member since:Mar 4, 2017
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You can e-mail me details on your Mini to:  [email protected]

 Posted: Mar 6, 2017 07:07PM
Total posts: 35
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Absolutely no luck with PM.
I'm at
[email protected] 

Jim

 Posted: Mar 6, 2017 06:22PM
Total posts: 24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vr0000m
cowboylogic, I can't figure out how to PM you. The car is not listed on any for sale forum. I had not decided to sell yet, but I thought that if it is the kind of Mini m3brad was looking for, we could talk.
If you can PM me, I'll give you info on my car.
Jim

PM sent Jim (I hope) Having trouble with the PMing myself.... 

Illegitumus non Carborundum

 

 

 Posted: Mar 6, 2017 06:20PM
Total posts: 24
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Member since:Nov 5, 2016
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Jim...LOL...I'm having trouble figuring out how to PM you as well regarding your '67 Coop S.


Darrell

Illegitumus non Carborundum

 

 

 Posted: Mar 6, 2017 05:21PM
Total posts: 6908
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US
Jim,
shoot me a pm or em.  I've got a few MK 2 S's. Love to chat.

mike

 Posted: Mar 6, 2017 04:09PM
Total posts: 35
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cowboylogic, I can't figure out how to PM you. The car is not listed on any for sale forum. I had not decided to sell yet, but I thought that if it is the kind of Mini m3brad was looking for, we could talk.
If you can PM me, I'll give you info on my car.
Jim

 Posted: Mar 6, 2017 12:16PM
Total posts: 24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vr0000m
I have a genuine 1967 1275 Cooper S MKII, with heritage certificate. I'm located in Colorado. My car is unrestored, but is rust free.
Jim
PM me please Jim with details on where to view...I don't see vehicle on this sites' cars for sale.

Darrell

Illegitumus non Carborundum

 

 

 Posted: Mar 6, 2017 08:27AM
Total posts: 35
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I have a genuine 1967 1275 Cooper S MKII, with heritage certificate. I'm located in Colorado. My car is unrestored, but is rust free.
Jim

 Posted: Mar 6, 2017 06:44AM
Total posts: 10
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Understood, I'm going to run it just to see what comes up.  At this point, I have no intention to pursue the Mini in question.  I had an incident with a 1967 big block Vette I purchased and surely don't want a repeat of anything near that!

 Posted: Mar 6, 2017 06:41AM
Total posts: 8382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m3brad
Quote:
Originally Posted by Minimike1
Brad,

what state do you live in?  It makes a difference if you're in Calif. 


I'm in NY on LI and could check out cars local to me.  Others might do the same for you, near you.
I'm in Illinois.  I have a friend of mine running the VIN to see what year comes up.

Again, thank you all for your expertise!
The vin that is visible in the pics will not match the 2nd vin that is stamped into the body (unless someone got very creative). The car is a 1996 Blue Star special edition German market with an spi engine with a 1967 vin number riveted on it.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Mar 6, 2017 06:09AM
Total posts: 9
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Brad,

The vin number to search for year is inconsequential.  What they're saying is that someone put a fake vin number on it from a older car to allow for importation.  It's easy to do on the earlier cars because the vin plate is simply riveted on.  

If you do buy one of the re-vin'd cars, the car could be at riskto be seized by the government and/or destroyed.  


 

 Posted: Mar 6, 2017 05:22AM
Total posts: 10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minimike1
Brad,

what state do you live in?  It makes a difference if you're in Calif. 


I'm in NY on LI and could check out cars local to me.  Others might do the same for you, near you.
I'm in Illinois.  I have a friend of mine running the VIN to see what year comes up.

Again, thank you all for your expertise!

 Posted: Mar 5, 2017 07:40PM
Total posts: 24
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I will keep that in mind...right now I am focusing on MkI-Mk4s.  Thank you for the info.

Darrell

Illegitumus non Carborundum

 

 

 Posted: Mar 5, 2017 07:06PM
Total posts: 3919
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cowboylogic.. I have one my guys  brother  that is just back from japan.. speaks fluent japanese.. and his cousin has shop outside toyko.. if you are up for buying direct from japan..  or check out www.carandclassic.co.uk and then i can import for you, after you buy the mini.. later bc  www.montecarlomini.com  

 Posted: Mar 5, 2017 07:00PM
Total posts: 24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thewerewolf
cowboylogic.. in that you are in canada..  check out the vancouver mini club in BC..  great source of Jap speck minis .  stay away from  the automatics.. much cheaper to just buy   one already in canada..  no comment on the transgender catalyn jennings blue star mini.. later  bc
Thanks for the tip werewolf. I am familiar with that club.  I hear you on the 'blue star mini'.

Darrell

Illegitumus non Carborundum

 

 

 Posted: Mar 5, 2017 04:50PM
Total posts: 6908
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US
Brad,

what state do you live in?  It makes a difference if you're in Calif. 


I'm in NY on LI and could check out cars local to me.  Others might do the same for you, near you.

 Posted: Mar 5, 2017 04:08PM
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cowboylogic.. in that you are in canada..  check out the vancouver mini club in BC..  great source of Jap speck minis .  stay away from  the automatics.. much cheaper to just buy   one already in canada..  no comment on the transgender catalyn jennings blue star mini.. later  bc

 Posted: Mar 5, 2017 03:23PM
 Edited:  Mar 5, 2017 03:25PM
Total posts: 24
Last post: Aug 2, 2017
Member since:Nov 5, 2016
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I'm also currently looking for a Classic Mini.  I've scoured this site and have asked peeps here and they have helped me immensely.  Lots of great info here to self-educate as well.  I have recently come across the following head scratcher  on two separate occasions on two different Minis in two different provinces in Canada.  I asked each seller to send me photos of the current registration and VIN.  Twice these have been sent to me and twice the VIN on the Registration hasn't matched the VIN on the car!  The first fellow went to the Reg office and the correction was issued right away (didn't purchase that Mini after all) and in the second instance, the seller is still trying rectify this.  Lots of pitfalls in my opinion.  Be wary.

Darrell

Illegitumus non Carborundum

 

 

 Posted: Mar 5, 2017 03:05PM
Total posts: 7048
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Yes, rules vary from one state to another, but federal laws are consistent. Changing VIN plates is a federal issue and a 97 and newer car can't be legally imported.

"Retired:  No Job, No Money, Wife and I!  Will travel anywhere for Minis"

[email protected]

Found 32 Messages

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