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 Posted: Apr 27, 2017 03:41PM
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So every once and a while you get lucky and the previous owner installs a car alarm with a kill switch.  Stay with me.  The kill switch was mounted next to the pedal box and the wires ran all the way to the passenger side of the car and out by the fuse box...right next to the original brake switch!  Stripped some wire and put some new connectors on and now i don't have to run a pair of new wires!  Installed the smaller micro switch using heavy duty velcro (similar to the EZPass stuff).  Works like a charm and the arm hits nearly dead center and is activated with very little pedal input.

Photos here:
//imgur.com/a/HeZLI

-Will

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

 Posted: Apr 26, 2017 10:42AM
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These photos are perfect.  Thanks.  Just ordered 2 or 3 of them to see what works.  

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

 Posted: Apr 26, 2017 09:57AM
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CA
(Pictures are great, Doug)

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Apr 25, 2017 03:41PM
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I don't know if the links below will work.  I have trouble making direct links to my Google Site.  Let me know if the pictures show up.

The two pictures show a side view of the switch and a bottom-up image.  I was wrong.  I thought I bent the lever.  Instead, I soldered a washer to it.

The switch is bolted to the gusset just to the right of the brake pedal.  With the washer resting on the pedal, the switch pivots on the screw until its contacts open.  Then the screw is tightened up.  The large washer spreads the force out so the switch is not crushed.



Doug L.
 Posted: Apr 25, 2017 11:36AM
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Would you have a photo of where/how you mounted the switch.  I was thinking that the arm would rub along the pedal arm.  Would love to see your implementation.

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

 Posted: Apr 25, 2017 11:18AM
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That is a tiny switch but the current rating is certainly high enough.  

The one I used was larger and had a much larger actuating lever that allowed me to bend the arm 90 degrees or so to "reach over" and touch the back of the brake pedal.

The switches linked below are still small but have the long actuating arm.  They are also less expensive than those you linked to.
https://www.amazon.com/V-153-1C25-Hinge-Lever-Miniature-Switch/dp/B01LZSJQ25/ref=sr_1_sc_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493150854&sr=1-4-spell&keywords=mircoswitch

The switch I used was more like the one below... although not from China.
https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-Z-15GW-B-Micro-Switch-Action/dp/B00D8394N0/ref=pd_sbs_504_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00D8394N0&pd_rd_r=VVS5ATMM9QE7B9JM1KBK&pd_rd_w=VEITQ&pd_rd_wg=wHjFw&psc=1&refRID=VVS5ATMM9QE7B9JM1KBK

Don't forget to look at eBay also.  You can limit your search to new, US only, buy it now, set a price range, and find items like that linked below.
//www.ebay.com/itm/Honeywell-Micro-Switch-SPDT-BZ-BA-Basic-Straight-Lever-Switch-BZ-2RW899-A2-/172618415123?hash=item2830dbfc13:g:H6UAAOSwpkFY6lJm
Name brand U.S. quality.

Doug L.
 Posted: Apr 25, 2017 10:49AM
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You're right,  micro switch will be way easier.  Gonna pull the trigger on this switch on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Doradus-10Pcs-V-156-1C25-Roller-Switch/dp/B01KFSYS8G/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493149536&sr=1-3&keywords=V-156-1C25

Should be easy to mount to the pedal box w/o removing everything.  

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

 Posted: Apr 25, 2017 05:21AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dklawson
As you noted, the reed switch Amp rating is a bit low.  However, if you had to, you could use the reed switch to trigger a relay.  If you go that route, you probably should put a capacitor across the legs of the reed switch to protect it from the voltage spike and current pulse that will happen when you de-energize the relay.  I have no idea what value cap would be required.  Maybe a simple ignition condenser would be suitable.  However, adding the reed switch, relay, and cap seems like a lot of unnecessary complication to me... other components to fail.
Hmm why not... Place a relay in the engine bay near the original brake switch.  Then run a pair of wires to the pedal for the magnetic switch.

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

 Posted: Apr 25, 2017 04:14AM
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As you noted, the reed switch Amp rating is a bit low.  However, if you had to, you could use the reed switch to trigger a relay.  If you go that route, you probably should put a capacitor across the legs of the reed switch to protect it from the voltage spike and current pulse that will happen when you de-energize the relay.  I have no idea what value cap would be required.  Maybe a simple ignition condenser would be suitable.  However, adding the reed switch, relay, and cap seems like a lot of unnecessary complication to me... other components to fail.

Doug L.
 Posted: Apr 25, 2017 04:00AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dklawson
When my second hydraulic switch failed I replaced it with a pedal box mounted industrial "Microswitch".  In my case I was able to drill a single hole at an angle through part of the pedal box.  A bit of double-sided mounting tape and a single screw secured the switch.  I then fine tuned the switch trip point by bending the switch's actuating arm.  I would imagine that with a bit of tinkering you could do something similar to mount the factory type switch bracket if you don't want to remove the pedal box.  

The image below shows the type of switch I used.

Hmm that is a good idea.  No reason to use the switch i have if it will be a pain in the rear.  What about using a magentic switch similar to what is used on a security system.  Could place the sensor on the pedal box and the magnet on the pedal.

Something like this:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/59150-030/59150-030-ND/154472

I could attach both with foam tape adhesive (or industrial velcro ).

Data Sheet  says it can do .5 amps and 1.2amps.  Not sure if that is enough.
//www.littelfuse.com/~/media/electronics/datasheets/reed_sensors/littelfuse_reed_sensors_59150_datasheet.pdf.pdf

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

 Posted: Apr 25, 2017 02:45AM
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When my second hydraulic switch failed I replaced it with a pedal box mounted industrial "Microswitch".  In my case I was able to drill a single hole at an angle through part of the pedal box.  A bit of double-sided mounting tape and a single screw secured the switch.  I then fine tuned the switch trip point by bending the switch's actuating arm.  I would imagine that with a bit of tinkering you could do something similar to mount the factory type switch bracket if you don't want to remove the pedal box.  

The image below shows the type of switch I used.

Doug L.
 Posted: Apr 24, 2017 02:28PM
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Well this project escalated quickly....

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ

 Posted: Apr 24, 2017 11:11AM
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CA

The worst part of pedal box removal is getting the cotter pins out of the clevis pins under the dash. The clevispins attach the brake and clutch master cylinders to the pedals themselves. Take out the drivers seat, put down some comfy blankets, and use your longest needle nose pliers to get the little buggers out.

 

After that, it is a matter of unbolting the masters from the engine bay side and carefully moving them aside, don't kink the lines. There are 2 bolts inside that bolt the pedal box to the firewall. After that it is just a matter of wiggling it out.
Not the worst job, but frustration level can be high if the cotter pins, or clevis pins are rusty. While it is out, have it media blasted and painted or powder coated...

Sean Windrum

1996 MGF VVC
1970 1275 GT Racer
66 Austin Countryman
63 997 Cooper (Under Construction)
63 MG 1100

 

 Posted: Apr 24, 2017 07:18AM
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So my stock switch is leaking brake fluid very slowly.  This is my 3rd switch in 2 years.  I'm done with it.  I bought the mechanical switch and the L bracket to hold it.  Problem is two fold.

1. My pedal box doesn't have the holes to mount the L bracket
2. The bracket holds the switch a bit to far out so the pedal nearly misses the switch.  I'm thinking i could fix this by afixing a washer to the pedal to act as a landing spot for the spring loaded switch.

I need to solve problem #1 before #2.  I can't get a drill in there.  I do have a dremil w/ a 90 degree head, would a bit work?  How hard is it to remove the pedal box?   Is there a better place to mount the switch?

'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)

Morristown, NJ