Mounting a mechanical brake switch
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Photos here:
//imgur.com/a/HeZLI
-Will
'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)
Morristown, NJ
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'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)
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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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The two pictures show a side view of the switch and a bottom-up image. I was wrong. I thought I bent the lever. Instead, I soldered a washer to it.
The switch is bolted to the gusset just to the right of the brake pedal. With the washer resting on the pedal, the switch pivots on the screw until its contacts open. Then the screw is tightened up. The large washer spreads the force out so the switch is not crushed.
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'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)
Morristown, NJ
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The one I used was larger and had a much larger actuating lever that allowed me to bend the arm 90 degrees or so to "reach over" and touch the back of the brake pedal.
The switches linked below are still small but have the long actuating arm. They are also less expensive than those you linked to.
https://www.amazon.com/V-153-1C25-Hinge-Lever-Miniature-Switch/dp/B01LZSJQ25/ref=sr_1_sc_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493150854&sr=1-4-spell&keywords=mircoswitch
The switch I used was more like the one below... although not from China.
https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-Z-15GW-B-Micro-Switch-Action/dp/B00D8394N0/ref=pd_sbs_504_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00D8394N0&pd_rd_r=VVS5ATMM9QE7B9JM1KBK&pd_rd_w=VEITQ&pd_rd_wg=wHjFw&psc=1&refRID=VVS5ATMM9QE7B9JM1KBK
Don't forget to look at eBay also. You can limit your search to new, US only, buy it now, set a price range, and find items like that linked below.
//www.ebay.com/itm/Honeywell-Micro-Switch-SPDT-BZ-BA-Basic-Straight-Lever-Switch-BZ-2RW899-A2-/172618415123?hash=item2830dbfc13:g:H6UAAOSwpkFY6lJm
Name brand U.S. quality.
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https://www.amazon.com/Doradus-10Pcs-V-156-1C25-Roller-Switch/dp/B01KFSYS8G/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493149536&sr=1-3&keywords=V-156-1C25
Should be easy to mount to the pedal box w/o removing everything.
'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)
Morristown, NJ
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'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)
Morristown, NJ
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The image below shows the type of switch I used.
Something like this:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/59150-030/59150-030-ND/154472
I could attach both with foam tape adhesive (or industrial velcro ).
Data Sheet says it can do .5 amps and 1.2amps. Not sure if that is enough.
//www.littelfuse.com/~/media/electronics/datasheets/reed_sensors/littelfuse_reed_sensors_59150_datasheet.pdf.pdf
'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)
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The image below shows the type of switch I used.
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'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)
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The worst part of pedal box removal is getting the cotter pins out of the clevis pins under the dash. The clevispins attach the brake and clutch master cylinders to the pedals themselves. Take out the drivers seat, put down some comfy blankets, and use your longest needle nose pliers to get the little buggers out.
After that, it is a matter of unbolting the masters from the engine bay side and carefully moving them aside, don't kink the lines. There are 2 bolts inside that bolt the pedal box to the firewall. After that it is just a matter of wiggling it out.
Not the worst job, but frustration level can be high if the cotter pins, or clevis pins are rusty. While it is out, have it media blasted and painted or powder coated...
Sean Windrum
1996 MGF VVC
1970 1275 GT Racer
66 Austin Countryman
63 997 Cooper (Under Construction)
63 MG 1100
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1. My pedal box doesn't have the holes to mount the L bracket
2. The bracket holds the switch a bit to far out so the pedal nearly misses the switch. I'm thinking i could fix this by afixing a washer to the pedal to act as a landing spot for the spring loaded switch.
I need to solve problem #1 before #2. I can't get a drill in there. I do have a dremil w/ a 90 degree head, would a bit work? How hard is it to remove the pedal box? Is there a better place to mount the switch?
'73 Innocenti Mini (non-export)
Morristown, NJ